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Unread 12-25-2009, 04:00 PM   #61
Goobersbro
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hey gerald I can just use a standard metal bit to drill my recovery point holes rite?

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Unread 12-25-2009, 04:04 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by provelogear View Post
Did you check my 03 Build. There is a hint of what is to come!
Uh oh! You told me before, but you mean your not finished...enhancing...the 03?!?
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Unread 12-25-2009, 04:09 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goobersbro View Post
hey gerald I can just use a standard metal bit to drill my recovery point holes rite?
Yes a standard 1/2"drill bit is all you will need for the rcovefy points. I'll include the G8 hardware for them as well
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Unread 12-25-2009, 05:09 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by provelogear View Post
Did you check my 03 Build. There is a hint of what is to come!
Yeah, assuming you're referring to the tummy tuck and engine skid... They're amazing. Can I have one now please?
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RE 3.5" coils, OME shocks, Currie control arms, JKS track bars, JKS 1.25” BL, JKS 1” BMML, 35x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/Rs, American Racing ATX Chamber (Teflon), JB Conversions SS SYE, Tom Woods driveshaft, Savvy Gas Tank Skid, Warn 9.5ti, Viking synthetic winchline w/safety thimble, Metalcloak bumper, Metalcloak steering box skid, Savvy rear bumper, HP30 w/Aussie Locker, Barnett cover, XRF ball joints, Savvy tie rod flip, mini-skids, housing end JJ's, , Currie Steering, OME steering stabiliser, Metalcloak Tube Fenders/rear flares/rocker guards, ORO SwayLOC, Banks Stinger Exhaust, Cobra 75 WX ST with Wilson Silver Load, S-POD, Alpine/MOPAR RB1 Navigation Unit w/MOPAR iPod integration, Superlift Truspeed speedo correction, Lightforce 140 Lance driving lights, OTRATTW switch panel, Tinted UPOL Raptor Liner, Savvy Black Magic brakes, Centric rotors, Superior Evo rear shafts

In the garage: Viking Offroad 350 series Hawse fairlead, ARB compressor, Savvy corner guards, Novak 231 cable shifter, EBC green stuff/Centric rotors (rear), Savvy tub rails, Savvy taillights
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Unread 12-25-2009, 05:12 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by provelogear View Post
Yes a standard 1/2"drill bit is all you will need for the rcovefy points. I'll include the G8 hardware for them as well
okay thanks yea I have all the hardware I just didn't have holes anywhere for them
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Unread 12-25-2009, 05:18 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dendrophobe View Post
Yeah, assuming you're referring to the tummy tuck and engine skid... They're amazing. Can I have one now please?
Oh if only he was...

And I just clear coated my shackle tabs. They have a nice clean semi-shiny brushed finish on them. Hopefully I can pick up some self-etching primer tomorrow morning and get this sucker painted. Than install it on Sunday. (assuming the hardware comes and I find somewhere to put my stock fogs until the tabs are ready). If I decide it's too wet out to paint it tomorrow, than I'll push everything back a day. Paint Sunday morning and install it Monday. We'll see, I'm getting anxious!
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Unread 12-25-2009, 05:44 PM   #67
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Ah, take a picture of the clearcoat! You did a matte coat, correct? I'm trying to decide between doing that and painting them black to match the bumper...
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2005 TJ Sport, Light Khaki Metallic
RE 3.5" coils, OME shocks, Currie control arms, JKS track bars, JKS 1.25” BL, JKS 1” BMML, 35x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/Rs, American Racing ATX Chamber (Teflon), JB Conversions SS SYE, Tom Woods driveshaft, Savvy Gas Tank Skid, Warn 9.5ti, Viking synthetic winchline w/safety thimble, Metalcloak bumper, Metalcloak steering box skid, Savvy rear bumper, HP30 w/Aussie Locker, Barnett cover, XRF ball joints, Savvy tie rod flip, mini-skids, housing end JJ's, , Currie Steering, OME steering stabiliser, Metalcloak Tube Fenders/rear flares/rocker guards, ORO SwayLOC, Banks Stinger Exhaust, Cobra 75 WX ST with Wilson Silver Load, S-POD, Alpine/MOPAR RB1 Navigation Unit w/MOPAR iPod integration, Superlift Truspeed speedo correction, Lightforce 140 Lance driving lights, OTRATTW switch panel, Tinted UPOL Raptor Liner, Savvy Black Magic brakes, Centric rotors, Superior Evo rear shafts

In the garage: Viking Offroad 350 series Hawse fairlead, ARB compressor, Savvy corner guards, Novak 231 cable shifter, EBC green stuff/Centric rotors (rear), Savvy tub rails, Savvy taillights
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Unread 12-25-2009, 05:52 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dendrophobe View Post
Ah, take a picture of the clearcoat! You did a matte coat, correct? I'm trying to decide between doing that and painting them black to match the bumper...
I don't even know whether it was matte or gloss, I just grabbed the can that said "clear" on it . I'll take a picture when I can.
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Unread 12-25-2009, 09:30 PM   #69
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Unread 12-25-2009, 10:25 PM   #70
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I don't have pictures yet, but it's sort of a smooth clear. Not glossy but not flat I suppose. More flat though, you can barely even tell it's coated. If I start painting tomorrow I'll try and snap pics of everything for you guys.
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Unread 12-25-2009, 10:48 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
I'm getting an aluminum bumper because I think it is a well designed product and I love the weight savings, not because I want a silver bumper. I'm no expert but I am happy with a carefully done rattle can job (self-etching primer and then Rustoleum Satin probably) and don't need powder coat. I'll do the painting myself and will be able to touch it up easily when it gets bashed.
Do you have any idea how long Rustoleum paint takes to dry in a cold or damp climate? Even slower when cold and damp. It'll take forever to never to dry if you paint it in NY in the winter in an unheated shop. Even in a shop heated to 70 to 75 degrees F, it'll take a long time for Rustoleum to cure and be hard. Like make a week or more. It's ridiculous how long Rustoleum takes to dry in a Northern climate in winter. It makes it a dam near useless product, except in summer.

In a hot climate, Rustoleum is great, but if you're in NY, it's going to suck badword.

I recommend using Krylon paint because it's much faster drying. I painted my rear bumper last year in an unheated shop in WA State in the dead of winter. The temp outside was in the teens to twenties. Inside, it was 50 degrees F.

I used a space heater and a hair dryer blowing right on the metal to heat 1/3 of the bumper at a time and then painted that third. (Keeping the paint can inside the heated office between coats). Then used hair drier to hardend the paint as much as possible. This meant each coat took 1 hour. In fact, I had the hair dryer in my left hand and the paint can in my right (about 18 inches apart) and moved both hand in unison. Painting and heating in circles. What a PITA, but it worked so well that my rear bumper is still painted and I don't see any rust.

Had I not done that, the cold metal would not have adhered to the paint and the paint would have been brittle like an eggshell that cracked when bumped and then paint falls off. That happened when I painted other parts in winter without heating the parts and paint can. Oh I wish I had a heated shop, but in the absense of a heated shop, heat the part and paint can before painting and continue heating part after painting each coat until you're to exhausted to wave a hair dryer anymore.

That's with fast drying 12 minute dry Krylon. It's called 12 minute, and would be on a hot summer day. In Fall, Spring, or especially Winter, in an unheated shop it's a battle to get it to adhere and dry hard, but can be done with the super efforts I described, but takes an hour per coat to dry to the touch, and a week to fully harden before it's ready for installation.

With Rustoleum, it would be impossible in an unheated shop. I know from experience.

In a heated shop, it's easy with Krylon, but still very difficult with Rustoleum.

In a cold climate in winter, Rustoleum is a swear word.

All of which leads me to believe that you've not much rattle can experience, or at least not in winter. Krylon is your best chance to succeed, but even then it's not easy in winter (unless you're shop is heated).
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Unread 12-25-2009, 10:53 PM   #72
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P.S. - for smaller parts, they can be baked in an oven at 140F for an hour to get paint nice and hard. This works great, but the paint should have dried an hour first at room temp (70F to 80F heated room), or if a heated room not available, use a hair dryer to heat part (and paint can) before painting.

The baking in oven gets spraycan paint as hard as it can get.

Though of course, I couldn't fit my bumper into my apt oven. But for smaller parts this is a great way to harden spraycan paint in winter, fall, spring.
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Unread 12-26-2009, 10:49 AM   #73
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As stated, the tolerances on the bumper are very tight. I run a cheap (Smittybuilt!) Chinese winch, with metric bolts. Given that, I had to slightly enlarge the winch mounting points, and couldn't use the supplied winch mounting bolts.

I also had to enlarge the passenger side rear-most hole (on the top, where the old sway bar connected) and the passenger side bottom bumper mount. They were both off about 1/4". Everything else lined up perfectly. It was also nice to see a full hardware kit (except for the metric sway bar bolts, I run an anti-rock, and had to search for the old bolts).

Given the tolerances, if you were to paint or have the bumper coated, you would want to take care and not coat the inside of the bolt holes.

It's cold and snowy today and I still need to re-wire the winch, but I'll post some pictures eventually.
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Unread 12-26-2009, 11:40 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakey View Post
As stated, the tolerances on the bumper are very tight. I run a cheap (Smittybuilt!) Chinese winch, with metric bolts. Given that, I had to slightly enlarge the winch mounting points, and couldn't use the supplied winch mounting bolts.

I also had to enlarge the passenger side rear-most hole (on the top, where the old sway bar connected) and the passenger side bottom bumper mount. They were both off about 1/4". Everything else lined up perfectly. It was also nice to see a full hardware kit (except for the metric sway bar bolts, I run an anti-rock, and had to search for the old bolts).

Given the tolerances, if you were to paint or have the bumper coated, you would want to take care and not coat the inside of the bolt holes.

It's cold and snowy today and I still need to re-wire the winch, but I'll post some pictures eventually.
Sounds good, I'd like to see a picture of your LJ.
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Unread 12-26-2009, 12:12 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Goobersbro View Post
okay thanks yea I have all the hardware I just didn't have holes anywhere for them
Maybe I'm just confused...but did you get a bumper without any mounting holes in it? Seems like quite an error if this is what truly happened...
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