[Night Wolf]

Just got done doing a boat load of stuff to the Jeep.

On topic to this thread - Clayton 4" springs replaced with Savvy/Currie 3". They were the same unloaded length.

The result is perfect. Clayton springs lifted 5"F & 5.5"R, I haven't measured the Savvy yet. I'm very happy with the stance though - control arm angles are much better. Wheel well gap is resonable with 33s, which I'm actually quite content with - but the setup can easily handle 35s. Jeep has a nose low rake - but I've since learned to accept it.

The ride is still a bit more stiff than I'd like - at this point it's most likely due to the shocks - Bilstein 5100 "long arm" (apparently slightly stiffer valving). Front travel is great, rear - not as much up travel as I'd like, using the stock mounts. The Clayton outboard kit actually pushes the shock up for less up travel. No more time to fuss with it now, so using stock mounts. I'd like to use the outboard location - will have to see about extended shock above frame or getting shorter shocks - Savvy/Fox would be the way to go!

Not the best pictures, and I have many more - these are just the highlights. Was able to drive the Jeep around locally a bit to make sure everything is good, but that's it - taking it on a cross country trip now!

New rear driveshaft came in so I don't have to drive around in FWD any more!



Took Gerald's advice on the phone (Thank you!) and cut/welded the JKS CV style track bar relocation bracket I already had. I was real nervous as it was my first actual welding project other than laying practice beads on the stock belly skid (about all it's good for). It was great though - I learned a lot more by actually making something work and look forward to playing with the welder more! It's only a Lincoln WeldPak 100HD using flux core but did the job just fine.



I wasn't sure which way (if it mattered) the springs got installed, so I put them all in so the wording is normal, not upside down.



Will be getting the JJ housing kit - but I really don't want to put more money and time into this axle - want to swap in a HP30. Still why I haven't installed the Currie mini-skids I bought from Gerald about a year ago!



All done for now. I may shorten the rear sway bar links a bit more. The lowers in the rear are set at 16", uppers set for proper pinion. Still plenty of clearance between the stock diff cover and Savvy gas tank skid. The double JJ Savvy rear track bar is awesome! plenty of clearance and no binding.





Currently using stock shock mounts - Clayton outboard brackets loose ~1.25" up travel and I think it would be cutting it real close to bottoming out just driving around - shocks are already for a 4" lift. I'm going to see about modifying the upper mount, with the BL I may be able to move them up 1.5" or so.



The rear driveshaft is new, I rebuilt the front a couple months back. Replaced both fron axle u-joints - left was original (97.5k miles) and 2 of the caps were dried up/bearings shot. Also installed YJ brake lines - just stock replacements but a couple inches longer.



I have the matching engine/transmission skid but haven't got around to mounting it up yet (since the tummy tuck install - was ran with stock skid). Jeep is only being driven on the road for now - good to go.



I'll be getting a lot more pictures in the day, of the Jeep itself to see the lift. Overall - I'm very happy with it!

[Necko2529]

Nice work, Wolf. Would you mind sharing your "at-the-belly" clearance #. Thank you, sir.
Avatat puctured at the Tybee Island?

[Imped]

You've done a really nice job rebuilding your jeep, Wolf. I'm sure it drives great now.

[aparke4]

Originally Posted by Savvy

Get the 4" they will be fine.

thanks for responding!

I am going to order the shocks soon!

[aparke4]

Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat

That's on Fox's websight right? I only see the Fox/Savvy 3/4" shock on Savvy's webpage, and I couldn't find a drop down menu.

go here: http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product...&categoryId=22

then where it says shock size select an option...

the website does not include the range of shocks for 3-4 inches of lift...

the fox website only lists shocks for TJ's with 4-5 inches of lift - this is why I asked because I was unsure which shock I needed...

Gerald said with my lift - 3.25 suspension lift - the 4-5 inch inch shocks will be fine... I am sure the extended/ compressed lengths of these two shock sizes is only a couple inches

[ytowntj]

Wolf, the long arm 5100s are actually a good bit softer that the SA ones. Apparently when running 5100s with the currie springs one might want the softer shocks of the two

[Necromancer_tat]

Originally Posted by aparke4

go here: http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product...&categoryId=22

then where it says shock size select an option...

the website does not include the range of shocks for 3-4 inches of lift...

the fox website only lists shocks for TJ's with 4-5 inches of lift - this is why I asked because I was unsure which shock I needed...

Gerald said with my lift - 3.25 suspension lift - the 4-5 inch inch shocks will be fine... I am sure the extended/ compressed lengths of these two shock sizes is only a couple inches

Thanks! I see the drop down now

Are the Savvy 4" coil springs and the Currie 4" coil springs the same spring rates? Would the 4-5" Savvy/Fox shocks work well with the Currie 4" lift springs?

[danielbuck]

Imped, I measured the rear springs again this morning now that it's light outside. The back of the rear facing side of the spring is a around 11.5", and the front side of the spring is a bit more than 9.5". This is from the lowest part of the axle spring perch to the highest part of the frame spring perch as best I can tell. So I guess if you average that out you get about 10.5"

Next time I have the rear wheels off I'll make a better measurement, and take a photo of the ruler.

[Night Wolf]

Originally Posted by Necko2529

Nice work, Wolf. Would you mind sharing your "at-the-belly" clearance #. Thank you, sir.
Avatat puctured at the Tybee Island?

IIRC, 17.5''. I'm on 33s and apparently the KM2's run small. I wish that was GA! LOL - it was at Bahia Honda on Big Pine Key when the girl and I went camping first week of January last year in the keys. Water-front camp site, oh so nice!

Originally Posted by Imped

You've done a really nice job rebuilding your jeep, Wolf. I'm sure it drives great now.

Thanks! I really enjoyed it on stock suspension and 31s - then I screwed the whole thing up. Now it's getting properly fixed. It's on one heck of a ''test run'' right now! No problems and *woah* is the steering tight and responsive! I keep cutting corners short - I never knew a TJ could have such sharp steering, it feels very similar to my BMW e28 now - which also uses recirc ball, that car has nice steering too.

Originally Posted by ytowntj

Wolf, the long arm 5100s are actually a good bit softer that the SA ones. Apparently when running 5100s with the currie springs one might want the softer shocks of the two

Softer? I searched and read they are firmer to help control the extra leverage of long arms. The Jeep is performing excellent but my only gripe is the ride is still too stiff. Bumps should be ''absorbed'' by the suspension better. Right now the Jeep is well-loaded up with lots of tools and equipment in the back, full tank of gas etc... Jeep sits nearly level when loaded, still a bit higher in the back, which is good. This is the first time I'm driving with the new rear drive shaft too - was in FWD for a month. What a difference! So smooth, it feels like a whole new, far greater performing Jeep - and this is just on the road!

[Savvy]

Originally Posted by Necromancer_tat

Thanks! I see the drop down now

Are the Savvy 4" coil springs and the Currie 4" coil springs the same spring rates? Would the 4-5" Savvy/Fox shocks work well with the Currie 4" lift springs?

The Savvy and Currie 4" springs are the same rate. The Fox Shocks are designed for them.

[Necromancer_tat]

Originally Posted by Savvy

The Savvy and Currie 4" springs are the same rate. The Fox Shocks are designed for them.

Thanks Gerald! I had read that the Savvy/Fox shock spring rate was developed for the Savvy 3" coil springs, Since I'm running the 4" springs I wanted to make sure they would work. I'm one of those OCD types that would adjust the 9000xls a million times for every possible instance, so I'd rather just have a shock that some other OCD guy dialed in themself, lol

[danielbuck]

I have a question for those running the 3" springs and the Fox shocks. How much bump stop did you need to add? It looks like my shocks are going to bottom out quite a bit before the bump stops meet. I'm not going to wheel it until I get the bumpstops where they need to be. I guess I just measure how much piston is sticking out at ride height, and that's that maximum distance that should be in between the bump stops? (minus a little bit, just to be sure?)

Before the 3" springs and Foxes, I had quickly setup the rear bumpstop so that the tire wouldn't be rubbing the inner fender well so much, I didn't have to worry about the shock bottoming out. But now it looks like the shock is what's limiting the up travel. Does this sound right? (but I guess before, the older shocks were probably limiting my down travel, I know the fronts were)

[geiman]

Originally Posted by danielbuck

I have a question for those running the 3" springs and the Fox shocks. How much bump stop did you need to add? It looks like my shocks are going to bottom out quite a bit before the bump stops meet. I'm not going to wheel it until I get the bumpstops where they need to be. I guess I just measure how much piston is sticking out at ride height, and that's that maximum distance that should be in between the bump stops? (minus a little bit, just to be sure?)

Before the 3" springs and Foxes, I had quickly setup the rear bumpstop so that the tire wouldn't be rubbing the inner fender well so much, I didn't have to worry about the shock bottoming out. But now it looks like the shock is what's limiting the up travel. Does this sound right? (but I guess before, the older shocks were probably limiting my down travel, I know the fronts were)

Stolen from one of Unlimited04's posts:

[danielbuck]

Ok, so he's measuring from above where the actual rubber upper bump stop starts (the metal cup?) to top of the lower bump stop. And then on the shock, from the edge of the shock can to the start of the bar pin?

[geiman]

Yeah I think so; I believe that top bump stop (jounce bumper?) can fully compress, thus the reason to measure at the bump stop cup.