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Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 10-19-2012, 11:13 AM   #31
Imped
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DW doesn't care about height....where's the logic in that?

You won't have wobbles if you use good parts and torque them down. Wobbles are caused by loose or worn parts. Height doesn't matter one bit.

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Unread 10-19-2012, 02:09 PM   #32
4wdjeepguy
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If you're doing any more than a BB, your links better involve Currie components. I wouldn't buy anything else from now on.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 03:00 PM   #33
Stickzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
m Not otor mount, motor mount lift. It's a spacer that lifts the engine 1". This helps correct drive shaft angle and negates the need for relocating the fan shroud when doing a small body lift.
Oh. I see. Seems logical.

Also had a question for all, the OME kit had a transfer case lowering kit.

Why would I need this?
How necessary is it?

Last edited by Stickzz; 10-19-2012 at 03:57 PM..
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Unread 10-19-2012, 04:18 PM   #34
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickzz

Oh. I see. Seems logical.

Also had a question for all, the OME kit had a transfer case lowering kit.

Why would I need this?
How necessary is it?
When you do a suspension lift you change the drive shaft angle. A case drop is a cheap way of trying to rectify drive line viberation due to steep drive shaft angles.

If you use a motor mount lift with a 2" ome lift then it is very unlikely you will need to use the case drop at all. Usually with a small suspension lift you can stack a couple fender washers between the frame and the transmission skid to minimize the amount of skid drop . Skid drop is undesirable because you lose ground clearance.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 04:27 PM   #35
Stickzz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616 View Post
When you do a suspension lift you change the drive shaft angle. A case drop is a cheap way of trying to rectify drive line viberation due to steep drive shaft angles.

If you use a motor mount lift with a 2" ome lift then it is very unlikely you will need to use the case drop at all. Usually with a small suspension lift you can stack a couple fender washers between the frame and the transmission skid to minimize the amount of skid drop . Skid drop is undesirable because you lose ground clearance.
Thanks.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 04:39 PM   #36
ctorres018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unlrubicon05 View Post
Explain why Zone or whatever you're pushing is a good product. I can't see why.
For ME it's a good product. It suits my needs and budget. Currie is great no doubt in my mind about that. But your talking out of your *** if your going to say everything inbetween a BB and Currie is junk. Please enlighten me on how everything else is junk
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Unread 10-19-2012, 04:50 PM   #37
Jeffro06
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I went with the Old Man Emu HD 2" lift, and ran 32's without a problem, on stock control arms, steering and drive shafts. I did add the Currie Antirock front sway bar at the same time as the lift. It's a very good lift, ride quality is great, despite it not being Currie. I have since added Rokmen control arms, but it wasn't because I needed them, it was because I wanted them....again, not Currie.

As mentioned if you don't want to mess with the suspension and possibly having to do mess with your pinion angle and such, you could go with metal cloak fenders to get the extra clearance you need.....I've since added the Metal Cloak Overlines up front.

My plan calls for 35's....someday.

You can check my build to see the components I've mentioned.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 05:05 PM   #38
BamaJeepman21
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BDS, OME, Zone, JKS...are all good companies. I have BDS springs, JKS BL, front and rear trackbars waiting to be installed. Very high quality and I expect great performance out of them. When people say "Currie is the only option", most of the time they're talking about Johnny Joints. Which I think 90% of this board can agree on that the only joints worth getting are JJ's. Currie, Savvy, Rokmen, Genright...etc all their arms have JJ's.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 05:24 PM   #39
4wdjeepguy
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I'm just speaking from experience. I have a RE LA on mine, and my dad was running a RC Series II on his. Both are junk. I've also seen RK and Teraflex products fail. Since the day we installed Savvy's control arms on my dad's, I wouldn't buy anything that doesn't utilize a JJ. Mostly anything else is just a waste of money.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 05:31 PM   #40
ctorres018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unlrubicon05 View Post
I'm just speaking from experience. I have a RE LA on mine, and my dad was running a RC Series II on his. Both are junk. I've also seen RK and Teraflex products fail. Since the day we installed Savvy's control arms on my dad's, I wouldn't buy anything that doesn't utilize a JJ. Mostly anything else is just a waste of money.
Speaking from experience, sorry I didn't know you've had everything "inbetween" installed on your rig before your currie set up
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Unread 10-19-2012, 05:33 PM   #41
GMBNT42
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I also agree with going with Metal Cloak fenders. Bolt on and allows you to run 33's with NO LIFT whatsoever. And then if you get more funds down the road and want to continue to improve the off road abilities of your Jeep you can then do a proper tummy tuck. A good Tummy tuck will be equal to a 2-3" lift on its own in functionality while keeping a nice low COG. Lifting should be the last thing you do, especially for a DD that will see light/occasioanl offroading.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 05:39 PM   #42
Stickzz
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Question about the metal cloaks, I was told if the tire sticks out past the fender flare, it's illegal/won't pass inspection. How do I see jeeps like that?
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Unread 10-19-2012, 05:51 PM   #43
pmcjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickzz
Question about the metal cloaks, I was told if the tire sticks out past the fender flare, it's illegal/won't pass inspection. How do I see jeeps like that?
They sell different width flares to keep you legal.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 06:36 PM   #44
OCWrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unlrubicon05 View Post
I'm just speaking from experience. I have a RE LA on mine, and my dad was running a RC Series II on his. Both are junk. I've also seen RK and Teraflex products fail. Since the day we installed Savvy's control arms on my dad's, I wouldn't buy anything that doesn't utilize a JJ. Mostly anything else is just a waste of money.
Statement:

Anything between a BB and a full blown hard core offroad all parts included currie kit is crap.

Proof:

Once owned a RE LA lift, and dad has a RC Series II.

Also Savvy's control arms are so good on his dads jeep, that any other companies shocks/springs/control arms/track bars/brackets are now crap.
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Unread 10-19-2012, 06:40 PM   #45
GMBNT42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickzz View Post
Question about the metal cloaks, I was told if the tire sticks out past the fender flare, it's illegal/won't pass inspection. How do I see jeeps like that?
I run the 6" MC flares, with 15x7 rims with 4" backspacing and 33x10.5" tires Im still under by about an inch. My state is relatively strict on tires sticking out beyond the flares, but some in some states the law is pretty lax on tire/flare laws. Have to check your own states guidelines to see what you can and can't run without the risk of getting pulled over.
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