Krown or Rust Check is what you want. Both are a thin product that will creep into everything and not seal in existing rust. Others are gonna tell you POR 15..........I have not seen/used this product..........But I know for a fact that Krown/Rust Check work very well. Some may say to spray your frame with oil.......yeah it will help, but not a good idea. Biggest thing for me is to keep the mud and crap washed out of your frame. I too live in the rust belt....and I have not had any problems yet getting bolts out with hand tools.......probly just jinxed myself.......good luck...any pics of your jeep frame?
2004 sahara, 2 inch BDS spring lift, BDS discos, 31bfg at, on ravines.
Ive worked a lot with POR-15. It can be mixed for aerosol use with a sprayer but in roll on form its pretty thick. Its also expensive imho. Its a quality product designed to adhere to rust not coat chassis. If you have rust spots this is what you want if not i might try something a bit thinner and less pricey. Any self etching primer might just do the trick, to be honest i don't know
04 TJ Willys Edition 4.0 five speed, metal cloak front, groundpounder rear, zj tie rod, currie track bar, more to come
At the factory the just-painted frame was baked to harden the paint and then dipped in a rustproofing bath, before body and suspension and driveline were installed. This waxy stuff is the only thing coating the inside of the frame where there is no paint, and to extend the life of the frame you basicly take care of the rustproofing from day one.
What that means is NEVER spray the frame with hot water or solvents using a power washer. Do anything you want with cool low-pressure water from a hose. Don't go spraying solvents or degreaser or anything else in the various open holes in the frame. Use a soft brush to knock dirt off if that helps.
Once the frame rustproofing has been compromised, the frame rusts from the inside out, where you cannot even see it. You find out about this when rust perforates the metal. Then some people like to weld in sections of steel as patches but basicly the frame is shot and the Jeep is dying at that point, because every new weld offers rust a new place on the frame interior for rust to take hold. Get a new frame before it folds in half and screws up the body tub. Or sell it and start over with a new Jeep. If you have a lot of mods, you can get a new galvanized aftermarket frame which has durable zinc galvanizing inside and out - but get all the accessories and body mounts and frame crossmembers modded BEFORE they dip the frame in molten zinc, because it's dangerous to weld to galvanized metal, and every weld is an invitation for new rust.
1967 Kaiser Commando
2001 Grand Cherokee WJ
2003 Wrangler Rubicon TJ
you can check my build thread but im wrapping up a frame off resto of my 00 sport. the frame was rotted at the back of the tranny skid, i had holes through it in some places and cracks around where it bends up around the perches. i ended up cutting the frame in half and pieceing 2 frames togethers.
during my resto i had the opportunity to get my frame sandblasted so cleaning was easy, i used self etching primer, then 2 coats of black chassis saver, and then 2coats of tractor implement paint (added reducer and hardner when i sprayed it).
prep is what makes any paint job look good and work well. so i preach prep like its straight from the bible.
do your own research if you'd like but heres my favorite products
Klean-Strip Prep-All (pre wipe before painting, removes wax and grease) $20-30 for a gallon at Ace, True Value, Home Depot, Lowes
Magnet Paints Chassis Saver (4 colors to choose, good for different things) $35-45 for Qt. or get one free when you buy Monstaliner kit
Eastwoods Internal Frame Paint $15 a can on ebay
Use nitrile gloves for everything. even you bodys natural oils/grease can ruin a coat of paint.
we are now doing my brothers pickup, we are using the power drills and grinders with wire brush heads to scrape as much rust off as possible. we use Prep-All ina spray bottle to spray, soak and then wipe off any oil or grease thats on the frame. for rusty areas i preach the silver-alluminum chassis saver from magnet paints aka monstaliner. the silver chassis saver has like 2lbs of alluminum flake per gallon mixed with it, the alluminum flake helps fill the voids and crannys rust has left behind. it really does a nice job to fill in, seal and trap moisture from reaching the preexisting rust. if you use it on anything rusty once you will most likely be impressed by how smooth it goes on and how nice it looks once dried. just remember to mix/stir it up thoroughly everytime you open a can as the flake will settle out.
"4 low, 2nd gear, skinny peddle on the right"
bought not built, broke, then rebuilt
you thought you had rust? [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/wasnt-me-my-2000-tj-weekend-warrior-1269820/[/url]
Zin-Kote 601 seems to work very well. It is a spray on zinc coating. It's not cheap though, about $35-$40 a can. Another issue is it is not black when dry, it is gray and will need to be covered with flat black.