running hot after head gasket repair - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 10-15-2005, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
AlaskaJeepMan
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Posts: 50
running hot after head gasket repair

Ok guys, I finished replacing my head gasket a few hours ago. I had the valves redone, the head milled and pressure treated. I installed all the required gaskets for the head, head cover, water pump and thermostat (all didn't require sealant). I noticed after the install smoke from the cleaning fluids, but once the smoke left I noticed a few issues.

How do I know the engine is running hot? My reservoir is dropped about one inch after 3 starts and running for 15 minutes.

1. My head cover gasket didn't seal to the rear passenger side, so I'm off to get another.

2. The electric fan (which started this whole problem of over heating) doesn't turn on until the jeep says its 210 when the fan should be set for 180. Is this a fan problem or is my temp sensor faulty?

3. I have a small clicking sound coming from a small box cylinder next to the windshield fluid, connected to the fuel system I think.

4. Otherwise the old issue was the power steering, my power steering pump is making a loud wheezing sound which increase with RPM. I believe the box maybe blocking something due to the fact it is leaking and has been since the beginning of the year. Would the pump affect the temperature? With the fan belt off it does turn without the sound.

Thanks guys!

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post #2 of 6 Old 10-16-2005, 12:18 AM
StealthTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlaskaJeepMan
Ok guys, I finished replacing my head gasket a few hours ago. I had the valves redone, the head milled and pressure treated. I installed all the required gaskets for the head, head cover, water pump and thermostat (all didn't require sealant). I noticed after the install smoke from the cleaning fluids, but once the smoke left I noticed a few issues.

How do I know the engine is running hot? My reservoir is dropped about one inch after 3 starts and running for 15 minutes.

1. My head cover gasket didn't seal to the rear passenger side, so I'm off to get another.

2. The electric fan (which started this whole problem of over heating) doesn't turn on until the jeep says its 210 when the fan should be set for 180. Is this a fan problem or is my temp sensor faulty?

3. I have a small clicking sound coming from a small box cylinder next to the windshield fluid, connected to the fuel system I think.

4. Otherwise the old issue was the power steering, my power steering pump is making a loud wheezing sound which increase with RPM. I believe the box maybe blocking something due to the fact it is leaking and has been since the beginning of the year. Would the pump affect the temperature? With the fan belt off it does turn without the sound.

Thanks guys!

Assuming that your head gasket blew from overheating, and assuming the machine shop checked and found the head to be crack free, you could still have a cracked block and/or a collapsed piston ring(s), both of which are fairly common with a cooked engine.





Fred

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post #3 of 6 Old 10-16-2005, 04:55 AM
btolle
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Did the machine shop check to see if the head was warped? A head can warp a few thousandths of an inch when overheated.

Did you follow the bolt tightening sequence when torquing the head down?

Installing a head (or other engine parts) must be done carefully following the instructions in the factory service manual. A good Chilton's or other engine manual should have the same information on torquing the head bolts that the FSM has.

The FSM for a 2004 says:

"CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab on the top of the bolt.

(3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around bolt), install the engine cylinder head over the same dowels used to locate the gasket. Remove the tape from bolt No.14.
(4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent.
(5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure

CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence, bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt No.11.

(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts in sequence:
Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
Bolt 11 to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the correct torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you
encounter bolts which were painted in an earlier service operation, replace them."

Bill Tolle
05 Rubicon
04 Liberty

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post #4 of 6 Old 10-17-2005, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
AlaskaJeepMan
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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I burped the heater hose and installed another gasket on the head cover. I started the Jeep and it seems to run rather well. However, before I left the garage the exhaust was very smokey and it smelled like burning brake cleaner. The smoke and smell might be from the cleaner. I drove the Jeep around the block and got the rpm's up to 4k a few times. The smoke seems to be gone and smell almost gone.

The heat sensor says the jeep is at 210 when idle. What is the normal idle temperature? I placed a 195 thermostat in the head so I'm not sure if its normal considering my last thermostat was a 180.

Thanks
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post #5 of 6 Old 10-17-2005, 02:17 PM
Jerry Bransford
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195 degrees is only where the thermostat opens up. The engine will normally run at around 210 degrees.

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post #6 of 6 Old 10-17-2005, 02:19 PM
DavidC
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Thermostat of 195 is correct.

Op temp of 210 is correct. I just replaced my water pump and thermostat.



Jb beats me to the draw.

BTW Jerry thanks for the help on the pump. Jeep runs like a champ and doesn't leak.

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