[RubiconRazorbac]

I love reading builds and figured I'd start one since I've got quite a few things to do to the Rubi. I've got an idea of where I'm going, but I'm sure it'll be a work-in-progress for quite some time. Plus, I'm sure I'll change my mind about what I'm going to do as it goes along (at least that's what everyone tells me).

The outline of the build will be on the next post and that's where I'll keep everything summarized.

[RubiconRazorbac]

So here's what's on tap for the build:

This list will be frequently edited as parts are made, bought, installed, removed, thrown away, or planned.

Currently Installed
Rough Country 1.25" Body Lift (Rough Country)
Rough Country 1" Motor Mount Lift (Rough Country)
Currie CV Driveshaft (Savvy Offroad)
Currie 4" Suspension Lift w/Antirock
Rancho RS9000XL Shocks
Currie Currectlync HD Steering Upgrade (Savvy Offroad)
Rock Hard Front Bumper w/Angled Hoop (Northridge4x4)
Superwinch LP8500 (Rokmen)
Rokmen Recovery Kit "D" (30' Strap, Tree Saver, 2 Shackles) (Rokmen)
Spidertrax Wheel Spacers (4x4groupbuy.com)
315-75/R16 Mickey Thompson MTZs (JC Whitney)
EBC Yellowstuff Pads and Centric Premium Front Rotors (Thepartsbin.com)
EBC Greenstuff Pads & Centric Premium Rear Pads(Tirerack.com/Autoanything.com)
Savvy Offroad Gas Tank Skid (Savvy Offroad)
LoD Xtreme Duty Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier (LoD Offroad)
Teraflex Foglight Wire Extensions (Teraflex)
Interior LEDs (superbrightleds.com)
Metalcloak Arched Fenders w/6" Flares (Metalcloak)
LED Turn Signals (Metalcloak)
Savvy Offroad Aluminum Rockers (Stainless Steel Slider) (Savvy Offroad)
Savvy Offroad Full Corners (Factory Flare) (Savvy Offroad)
Alpine CDA 9886 (Crutchfield)
Savvy Offroad Tub Rails (Savvy Offroad)
Savvy Offroad LED Taillights (Savvy Offroad)
Pacer LED License Plate Light (Savvy Offroad)
Savvy Offroad License Plate Bracket (Savvy Offroad)


Bought but not Installed
Savvy Underarmor
Swaybar endlink relocation bracket (mrblaine)
Tie-rod flip knuckle insert (go-fer-it)
TJ w/mini buttons Winch Controller (12voltguy)
Riddler Diff Cover (Rokmen)
IPF H4 housings (Quadratec)
IPF Fatboy II bulbs (Quadratec)
Headlight Heavy Wattage Wiring Harness (eAutoWorks.com)
Currie Johnny Joint Front Housing Conversion
Savvy Offroad Ultimate Heat-treated Chromoly Tie Rod
Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Viking Offroad Synthetic Winchline w/Thimble


Still need to make or buy
Superior Rear Axle Truss
Superior EVO Rear Axles
Superior EVO Front Axles
New HD Ball Joints
Poly Performance Cage
Windshield Light mounts & lights
Steering box skid
Rancho In-cab Shock Controller
Re-gear to 5.13!!!
Speedo correction--Truspeed?
Rear Center High-mount LED 3rd Brake Light
Vanco BBK
Corbeau Baja RS Seats
5.7L Hemi/545RFE (Jeep Speed Shop)

I don't think I've missed anything. The end goal on this is to be able to run 35s very well offroad and as a daily driver. Most offroading is getting to fun camping spots with the kids, or into the backwoods to hunt & fish. However, my wife and I would REALLY like to drive out to Moab or the Rubicon for a week for a kids-free vacation sometime! I haven't decided on which bumpers to get yet, nor which specific winch, and I'm holding out for the Savvy belly skid.

[RjAndJeep]

this looks like a good start for a build: 2thumbsup::2thumb sup:: )

[GOLENJEEPTJ]

Originally Posted by RjAndJeep

this looks like a good start for a build:2thumbsu2thumbsup:: tea:

The 14 year old is starting again?

[RubiconRazorbac]

Finished the RC 1.25" Body lift:

So, for the lessons learned:
1. Overall the body lift is EASY. This is my first time really doing anything with a TJ and it's a good starting place.
2. Big shout out to everyone that has posted the tip on removing the headlights to install the "snubbers" under the radiator. Great video on this on Youtube by the Rokmen guys. I don't know how anyone has ever done this without removing the headlights...
3. Whoever designed the body mount over the rear axle next to the shock mount should be drawn and quartered. This was the biggest pain in the butt for the entire install. I finally moved the floor jack back to the rear corner to lift that end up a little more and got the puck over the mount. I did notice however that replacing the shocks will be much easier now that the body lift is installed.
4. I DID NOT remove the fuel filler tank bezel. This caused no problems whatsoever.
5. The tiny torx screws that hold in the headlight bezels are junk. I'm going to get some phillips-head and replace them tomorrow.
6. I DID NOT modify the radiator shroud. I should qualify this with the fact that I also have the 1" budget motor mount lift that I'll end up installing tomorrow. I am not going to be driving the Jeep until I install the MML.
7. Have a good long (6-8") screwdriver available. For both the mounts over the rear axle and for the front center mount, I had to use the screwdriver to align all the holes in the mounts, lift, & body in order to get the bolts started in the body nuts. This is the one minor drawback from the product itself. A little more attention to detail and the lift would have come with "tapered-end" bolts like the ones from the factory. That would have made it easier to get the bolts started.

I completed the installation, from the minute I walked in the garage until I torqued down the last bolt in just under 3 hours. Again, not bad for the first TJ mod (although I've done everything from suspension replacement and engine rebuilds on other vehicles).

Some notes on the MML:

1. On paper, it's easy. In reality, it's a real pain. Took me about 6 hours working by myself. If I ever do it again, I think I could probably do it in 2-3.

2. As has been recommended on this forum, I removed the complete bracket off the engine block on the driver's side. The nut that you have to access from underneath on the mount I had to break lose with an impact wrench. The bolts that hold the bracket to the block were difficult, but an 18" breaker bar took care of them. ALL the nuts and bolts you have to access on the driver's side are difficult at best to access! There's also a heat shield riveted onto the bracket. I really thought several times about drilling out the rivets and throwing away the heat shield but then my conscience got the best of me and I just decided to deal with it and leave it on.

3. The nuts and bolts are much easier to access on the passenger's side. That is, until I went to install everything. For some reason the mount bolt that is inboard (the one that has the "extender" on it) is so long it hits a bracket bolt head. I didn't notice this being a problem when I removed the original nut, but with the MML, you can't even get the nut on the inboard bolt. So, I took the mount back off and cut about 1/4" off the bolt with the grinder. Even then, I could barely get the nut threaded and definitely couldn't get a socket on it. So I tightened it down hand tight and took and open-end wrench at an angle to get it as tight as I could.

4. If you have arms that are 4 feet long, made of elastic, and skinny as my 2-year old's arm, you can do this in about 30 minutes. That's how difficult it is to access some of these parts.

5. You'll end up jacking the motor up higher than you think you'll have to. I read a couple of threads around here where that was in question and the advice was to keep raising the jack so I didn't worry about it and it worked out fine.

6. This would have been easier also if I'd had a suspension lift already installed.---Just gives you more room to move around underneath.

Everything is torqued-down with the exception of the inboard mount bolt on the passenger's side. Again, it's as tight as I could get it with the angled open-end wrench. I'll check the bolts again in 500, then 1,000 miles just to be sure.

If anyone has any tips on that one bolt mentioned above, clue me in...

EDIT: I ended up starting a thread asking for help on this. Got some good advice and it worked. I ended up loosening everything including the four transmission mount nuts, jacked up the drivetrain again higher than I thought I'd need to, wife standing on a step-stool with a prybar between the motor mount and the block, count to 3--she shoved and I slipped a socket on the problem nut from under the Jeep. Torqued everything down-good to go.

I took some pics but have to get them uploaded to photobucket----after I take a shower!

[RubiconRazorbac]

Before and after 1.25" Body Lift and 1" Motor Mount Lift

Before...



After...



My Pit Crew...

[RubiconRazorbac]

Rock sliders are installed. Very easy with the directions from RC. Took about 4 hours by myself but would go much faster with an extra set of hands. The self-threading bolts are difficult to start, but I used an impact wrench to get the threads started, then ratcheted them down and torqued to specs. For less than $200, I'm more than happy with the result. However, if I didn't already have the stock rocker guards, I would have bought the guard/sliders that bolt to the tub (something like the A to Z fab).

[spyder6]

i wish i had those 03' wheels! those are sexy as hell!

[Best4x4]

With the Rubicon you can change the Tire size via the Jeep DRBIII Scantool. Not sure if 305 is an option, but I know it had 33x12.50R15 as an option.

[Savvy]

Nice Rubi! Your dealer should be able to calibrate the speedo if you don't have access to the Scantool.

Contact me about you Currie steering.

Gerald

[RubiconRazorbac]

Thanks Gerald. I was going to wait a couple of weeks on the Currie, but I may have to pull the trigger if you've got a deal! PM'd you.

[Stonz]

That type of bulid is exactly what I'm after as well

[RubiconRazorbac]

Just finished installing the front end of the Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift. Some notes:

1. PB Blaster was my friend. I've been spraying it on every other day for a couple of weeks now. Honestly, I didn't think I'd need it since the Jeep isn't old (2003) and is about as rust-free as you can get in the Midwest. However, the shock mounting hardware would've been a nightmare if I didn't use the Blaster.

2. For some reason, I did NOT have the spring retaining clip on the driver's side. Unless someone tells me it's detrimental not to have it, I'm not going to worry about it.

3. Doing this by myself was difficult and frustrating, but not impossible. Removing the springs was easy. Putting in the new ones sucked. I disconnected the swaybar AND the lower control arms. I jacked up one side as high as it would go and dropped the side I was working with until the brake lines were at their limit. Still couldn't force the springs in. So I went to Autozone to borrow a spring compressor. Well, everbody on this forum that recommends the Autozone spring compressor is doing it as a joke or they've never used them. I honestly think it's a way for the experienced guys on here to haze us noobs! It'll compress the springs alright, but once you get the springs on the perch, there is NO WAY to get the compressor out of the spring. So, I took the spring back off and sat and stewed for a few minutes--threw back a cold beer--then came up with my own spring compressor. I looped two sets of heavy-duty ratchet straps through the springs and tightened them down until I could get the springs in. Worked like a freakin' charm. There is no easier way to do this!!!

4. Once the springs were in, getting the new shocks on was a piece of cake. RC puts new hardware for the top mount in which was great. The lower shock mounts use the old hardware which was just fine. Everything went together as it should.

I still need to install the JKS trackbar and quicker discos before I start on the rear end of the lift. I'll do that later this afternoon.

I'll post some pics when I finish the whole thing tomorrow.

Lessons learned: Ratchet straps, PB Blaster, COLD Beer, and a good impact gun are your friends!

[wushaw]

You didn't use the correct spring compressor, there are a few different types and the one you needed is a two piece unit that goes on the outside of the spring that you alternate from side to side compressing a little at a time and once you get enough compression then ya install her and reverse the uncompressing.

[RubiconRazorbac]

Originally Posted by wushaw

You didn't use the correct spring compressor, there are a few different types and the one you needed is a two piece unit that goes on the outside of the spring that you alternate from side to side compressing a little at a time and once you get enough compression then ya install her and reverse the uncompressing.

That would've been nice. If only they had that at Autozone today.

The ratchet straps did work great though. But I don't think I'd use anything but the heavy duty ones.