Rubicon rear D44 locker problem... - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-06-2017, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
RockWoRM
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Rubicon rear D44 locker problem...

K... when up to a local trail area to play. While still on the main road I got to the curvy part of the road and I made a tight turn, all of a sudden "POW" in the rear end. Was in 2wd, but it definitely sounded like the locker. And on a Rubi the lockers cannot be engaged in 2 hi to my knowledge. But now, after inspection, it would seem the rear is permanently locked in 2 hi? R & P seems ok as far as I know. No noise while going straight. But any tight turn and wheels screech and 'click, pop, bang' just as if a Detroit were unloading. (I've owned a Detroit, so I know the sound)
I've read on here that the rears are combo locker/posi and are notorious for the little side gears inside the locker taking a crap... who knows? Does this sound right? But I was in 2hi.?? How could it lock up?? I know little about these lockers. Did check for loose wires and hoses... all that looked good to me as far as I know.

Any thoughts/help appreciated.


'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MetalCloak fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #2 of 20 Old 08-06-2017, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
K... when up to a local trail area to play. While still on the main road I got to the curvy part of the road and I made a tight turn, all of a sudden "POW" in the rear end. Was in 2wd, but it definitely sounded like the locker. And on a Rubi the lockers cannot be engaged in 2 hi to my knowledge. But now, after inspection, it would seem the rear is permanently locked in 2 hi? R & P seems ok as far as I know. No noise while going straight. But any tight turn and wheels screech and 'click, pop, bang' just as if a Detroit were unloading. (I've owned a Detroit, so I know the sound)
I've read on here that the rears are combo locker/posi and are notorious for the little side gears inside the locker taking a crap... who knows? Does this sound right? But I was in 2hi.?? How could it lock up?? I know little about these lockers. Did check for loose wires and hoses... all that looked good to me as far as I know.

Any thoughts/help appreciated.
The number one killer of the OEM Rubi rear locker is the little side gears taking a crap and locking up the LS portion of the locker. Typically happens on tight turns on high traction surfaces during enthusiastic driving.

I'm putting my money on you finding little bits of LS gear pieces when you open it up.

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post #3 of 20 Old 08-06-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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You are very possibly correct, Blaine. On that note; would it possibly be a simple change of locker? Hopefully no damage to R&P. Or should I expect more/other issues? And I am assuming if this is the case, there is no repair to the current locker. Correct?

I am wondering (thinking ahead of course) what is the best/easiest, cost effective replacement? ARB, which needs a new/different pump I assume, or an E-locker?

'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MetalCloak fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #4 of 20 Old 08-06-2017, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
You are very possibly correct, Blaine. On that note; would it possibly be a simple change of locker? Hopefully no damage to R&P. Or should I expect more/other issues? And I am assuming if this is the case, there is no repair to the current locker. Correct?

I am wondering (thinking ahead of course) what is the best/easiest, cost effective replacement? ARB, which needs a new/different pump I assume, or an E-locker?
I've never heard of anyone repairing the LS gears. I suppose it is possible though. No way to predict anything until you pull the cover. If I was doing it, I'd toss in an E-locker and wire the locker pump feed wire to lock the e-locker after doing the bypass if it hasn't been done.
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post #5 of 20 Old 08-07-2017, 11:12 AM
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You probably killed the tiny torsen gears, you can't buy parts so its a full case replacement. I wouldn't bet on your R&P being ok either, mine weren't.

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post #6 of 20 Old 08-07-2017, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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^
prolly wont' get to it until this weekend... but thanks for the pics...keeping fingers crossed...

'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MetalCloak fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #7 of 20 Old 08-07-2017, 04:55 PM
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Good luck, mine let go in a parking lot just backing out of a spot. I put a Zip Locker in. I also used it as the excuse to finally regear for the 35's.

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post #8 of 20 Old 08-07-2017, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I've never heard of anyone repairing the LS gears. I suppose it is possible though. No way to predict anything until you pull the cover. If I was doing it, I'd toss in an E-locker and wire the locker pump feed wire to lock the e-locker after doing the bypass if it hasn't been done.
Thanks Blaine. Prolly not a great idea to re-build something not that strong in the first place. Both E-locker and ARB have good reviews here. If I go E-locker, to my knowledge, all wiring is stock now, so maybe some info on the feed back bypass would be great!

Also, as far as I know, the stock air system isn't strong enough to run an ARB. Correct? Would need ARB pump?

'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MetalCloak fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #9 of 20 Old 08-07-2017, 05:29 PM
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I run my ARB lockers off of this:

Set at 100 PSI.
It also does a good job at airing up the tires...
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post #10 of 20 Old 08-07-2017, 05:36 PM
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Also, as far as I know, the stock air system isn't strong enough to run an ARB. Correct? Would need ARB pump?
Any pump that puts out enough pressure will work. No magic to ARB pumps. But the OEM Rubicon pumps do not put out enough pressure for ARBs.
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post #11 of 20 Old 08-08-2017, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
Thanks Blaine. Prolly not a great idea to re-build something not that strong in the first place. Both E-locker and ARB have good reviews here. If I go E-locker, to my knowledge, all wiring is stock now, so maybe some info on the feed back bypass would be great!

Also, as far as I know, the stock air system isn't strong enough to run an ARB. Correct? Would need ARB pump?
Look here for options on the locker bypass:
http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mods/T...ker_Defeat.htm


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post #12 of 20 Old 08-12-2017, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Update: I got the rear cover off. Tons of metal shavings. Obviously the guts from the locker. Ring and pinion looked pretty good in my opinion.
As far as the link posted above about the locker bypass switch, I have read that previously, however I do not see anything in that link that explains how to wire in an E locker?
Does anyone have any other info on how to do that? I am not very good at electrical so I need a very easy simple explanation on how I can wire the locker into the factory switch. Tia

'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MetalCloak fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #13 of 20 Old 08-12-2017, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
Update: I got the rear cover off. Tons of metal shavings. Obviously the guts from the locker. Ring and pinion looked pretty good in my opinion.
As far as the link posted above about the locker bypass switch, I have read that previously, however I do not see anything in that link that explains how to wire in an E locker?
Does anyone have any other info on how to do that? I am not very good at electrical so I need a very easy simple explanation on how I can wire the locker into the factory switch. Tia
The locker bypass lets you activate the lockers without being in 4 low. To activate the locker, all you are doing is sending power to the little pump. Do the bypass, turn on the rear locker pump, find locker pump, hook wires from the locker to the wires that turn on the rear locker pump. Leave locker pump in place so you have a spare for the front locker. You may have to do some shenanigans with the connectors that will let you move the front connector to the spare rear pump. Don't forget you have to move the front air line to the rear air pump if you use it as a spare.

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post #14 of 20 Old 08-13-2017, 07:32 AM Thread Starter
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K,thanks. Dumb question...
If I did not do the bypass, but still wired the E-locker to the rear pump wires, would it still work properly? Only difference being is I would have to be in 4low as usual? Or is that too easy and there is something else I'm missing that the bypass does?

'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MetalCloak fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #15 of 20 Old 08-13-2017, 07:41 AM
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K,thanks. Dumb question...
If I did not do the bypass, but still wired the E-locker to the rear pump wires, would it still work properly? Only difference being is I would have to be in 4low as usual? Or is that too easy and there is something else I'm missing that the bypass does?
I'm not wholly familiar with the intricacies of the parameters which allow the OEM lockers to be used and whether or not the flashing light has to be solid for the rear locker before it lets the front locker be activated or if it is just a visual indicator that the rear isn't locked yet. I suspect it is the latter but I have on occasion been incorrect about such things.

The bypass just lets you activate the lockers any time.

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