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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:02 AM   #1
-dirt-
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Rubicon Locker Pump Issue

My front locker light is flashing, and the front locker is not engaging.

The pump runs for 2-3 seconds, then stops when switch is pressed. About 10 seconds later, the pump runs again for just an instant. Does this every ~10 seconds. Have checked the pump wiring, and it is getting 12V when the switch is pressed. Also, the pump shuts off and does not do the 10 sec. thing, if I put my thumb over the air outlet.

So I believe the pump is functioning as it should, but there is a leak downstream. I've put hose clamps on both the pump outlet and the fitting at the diff. Still not engaging.

My next thing to check is the hose inside the diff. I've read of others using upgraded clamps in there -- please point me to the type used. Would it be beneficial to upgrade the actual hose?

What else should I check?

Here's a pic I nabbed off another thread. Disregard the square.



Thanks!

Full disclosure: I have done the locker bypass mod and relocated the pumps to under the hood. I did not notice this until after I moved the lockers. However, it had been a while since I engaged them prior to that, so I don't think they are related. I kept the factory air hose to the front diff.

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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:12 AM   #2
cstevens
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Definitely sounds like an air leak. Before opening the diff, I would completely remove the air hose running from the pump to the diff. Plug up one end, pressurize the hose and submerge in a 5 gallon bucket of water. This will tell you if you have a hole in the air line.
If its not leaking, you could do the same with the internal hose once you open the diff.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:30 AM   #3
SBpunk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cstevens View Post
Definitely sounds like an air leak. Before opening the diff, I would completely remove the air hose running from the pump to the diff. Plug up one end, pressurize the hose and submerge in a 5 gallon bucket of water. This will tell you if you have a hole in the air line.
If its not leaking, you could do the same with the internal hose once you open the diff.
Agree. Same thing happened to me and I just replaced all the air hoses. Rides like its new again. I would run the rear air line along the brake line. Something kept cutting my rear air line until I moved it.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:36 AM   #4
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Ok, I'll check the inner hose. Link to better clamps?

Will pick up new fluid and maybe even one of those diff gaskets (in lieu of RTV) on the way home. Side bar: any comments on those gaskets? Looks like Felpro makes one avaliable locally.

I did re-route the rear hose with the brake line, as you did. May replace the front air hose just for posterity.

Forgot to note that when I pulled the hose at the front diff, there was a distinct hiss, with air leaving the hose, I suppose...
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Unread 12-14-2011, 09:40 AM   #5
SweetPee
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As for a better clamp, IF it is the clamp.... most people I know with a Rubicon use a small ziptie cinched up tight.
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Unread 12-14-2011, 01:19 PM   #6
UnlimitedMatt
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I like lube locker gaskets. They seal real well and are reusable.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 04:57 PM   #7
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Is it OK to engage (or attempt to at least) the front locker with the cover off and no fluid?

I would rather not have to drain and fill it multiple times while diagnosing this.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 06:49 PM   #8
SweetPee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -dirt- View Post
Is it OK to engage (or attempt to at least) the front locker with the cover off and no fluid?

I would rather not have to drain and fill it multiple times while diagnosing this.
Yes. But you might consider putting the jeep on stands so you can rotate the tires by hand so the locker will not be under a load and have a chance to actually lock. Just don't drive the jeep without gear oil!

X's2 on the lubelocker suggestion.
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Unread 12-16-2011, 01:10 PM   #9
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Good idea. I have a manual tranny, so would just pushing it forward or backward with the weight on the wheels suffice (engine off, in neutral)?
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Unread 12-26-2011, 07:47 PM   #10
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Ok, I've pulled the cover and replaced the hose inside the diff, and I'm still getting the intermittent pumping and flashing locker light. If I hold my finger over the barb on the diff coming out of the casting, it still persists. Looks like their may be a leak in one of the barbs...

Any good way to test the pressure between the barbs?
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Unread 12-26-2011, 08:01 PM   #11
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How about the hose from the pump to the barb on the diff?
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Unread 12-26-2011, 09:13 PM   #12
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Yes, that was the 2nd place I checked; the first was at the pump. I can put my thumb over the hose at the external barb at the diff and the pump wont do the intermittent run.

Last edited by -dirt-; 12-27-2011 at 07:56 AM.. Reason: spelling
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Unread 12-26-2011, 10:47 PM   #13
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Here's a pic of the barb... It's made of steel and some have broken them so I assume they are proned to rusting apart.
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Unread 12-27-2011, 07:50 AM   #14
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I didn't know it was all one piece like that -- thanks for posting that pic!

Does it have its own part number? Also, have you performed this repair or know how its removed? I'm guessing its pressed out from the inside...

EDIT: I think I found the part number: 05083663AB. At least that looks like it from the parts manual. Can anyone confirm?
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Unread 12-27-2011, 07:35 PM   #15
Griff1918
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I have been having the same problem with mine. ill have to dig into the problem.
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