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Old 11-05-2009, 11:42 AM   #91
casto
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rubicon air pumps

Hello there to every one. At last I installed the rubi pumps and they worked great!!!, a guy from a jeep club in my city had a pair of rubi pumps and sold them for $80 us. After a while finally I got them installed, with the help of all the technical info in this post. I want to give special thanks to NE4X4 for sending me the electric diagram from Alldata wich helped a lot in the wiring. IŽll try to post the finished job.[IMG]
http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae224/castor75/pump%20lockers/?action=view&current=146.jpg[/IMG][IMG]

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae224/castor75/pump%20lockers/?action=view&current=148.jpg[/IMG][IMG]

http://s974.photobucket.com/albums/ae224/castor75/pump%20lockers/?action=view&current=145.jpg[/IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG]


Last edited by casto; 11-06-2009 at 11:34 AM..
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:17 AM   #92
BaddAndy
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You may want to think hard about putting in a safety switch. It would be an expensive hard lesson to learn if someone bumped one of those switches on at highway speed
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Old 11-06-2009, 10:59 AM   #93
casto
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ThatŽs right, IŽll look forward to install some safety switch. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 11-07-2009, 04:52 PM   #94
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Where does the input hose that goes to the pump come from?

Thanks
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:26 PM   #95
casto
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I did all the hose conections following the instructions from ziaholic, you can find the link at page 6 reply #83. I relocated the pumps next to the washer fluid container, and the input hose is near the cluth reservoir, as high as posible.
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Old 11-08-2009, 02:29 PM   #96
casto
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Air hose inlet for pumps

Here are some photos of the Air hose input.

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Old 11-08-2009, 05:28 PM   #97
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So it just sucks air from under the hood - through the hose? What's the point of even having the input hosed hooked up to it - if the pumps are also under the hood?
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:50 PM   #98
casto
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ThatŽs right just sucks air from under the hood. They are placed high (the pumps) and the air hose, just in case of deep watter or mud. But you might just leve them near the pump, itŽs probably high enough.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:58 PM   #99
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Thanks! Makes sense now. You definitely don't want water being pumped into your diffs
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Old 11-22-2009, 06:35 PM   #100
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What ignition source did anyone use for power to the pumps?
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Old 11-22-2009, 09:28 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchy01 View Post
What ignition source did anyone use for power to the pumps?
Any 12v fused connection will work. Do not tie it into the ignition. Otherwise it will purge the pump and disengage the locker everytime you shut the engine off.
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Old 12-08-2009, 09:54 AM   #102
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I see that camper used inline fuses between the switch and battery, and the indicator light and battery. What did you guys use, amperage-wise? 5 amp?
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:06 AM   #103
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Two days ago I purchased Rubi axles & a Rubi 4-1 case. I just read this whole thread and appreciate the info, conflicting as it may be.........I'll do my own research and do the connections accordingly (90% sure paultyler is correct)..........Paul, what's it like to have started a thread and have it live for almost 4 years.....
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:03 AM   #104
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I have a Rubicon, and I just relocated my pumps under the hood yesterday.

FYI, stock wiring to the pumps has only 2 wires (a red and a black) that go to the connector.

Therefore, people that say that the pink wire sends a signal to the diff, or whatever, this can't be right. The sensor in the differential is a whole different circuit, and each will work without the other.

In fact, I accidentally hooked the hoses on the wrong pumps, and I was able to lock the front only, and then the rear, instead of the other way around.
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Old 01-08-2010, 05:34 AM   #105
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FYI eight weeks ago I did this, skipped the pink wire, they work great .... ..pumps are below the hood on the drivers side shelf ... modified the OEM pump bracket and mounted it to the shelf with pumps.

I used 4 switches ... first a main in the glove box to keep inexp. hands off. this lights a LED. Then a master on/off (powered up by the glove box sw). Then two more switches, one for each axle and indv. leds for the lockers. Switches are lighted toggle from radio shack.

I removed the ash tray and intalled a black panel for the leds & switches

so how it works ... with the glove box switch on an led (amber) above the master switch lights up, turn the master on it lights up red (now power is available to the the front & rear pump switches) ... front axle switch is green lighted, back is blue lighted. They light up when switched on, and once on individual green leds above axle switches lights when its locker engages ... with the glove box switch off all is off. (Although you want to use a sepeate power source for the locker led's)

all runs on a single 10amp fuse.
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Last edited by rideraa; 03-05-2010 at 11:32 AM..
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