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Rubicon Locker Air Pump question (how to wire your Rubicon air pump)
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#31 | |
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Registered User
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bumping this old thread...
Swapping in a rubicon 44 into the front of my cherokee and I can't get the factory locker to work. I have the exact same problem that "tjrunner" did...when I hook up red (as power) and black (as ground) my pump only clicks. When I run pink as ground with black my pump runs but will not lock the axle...also will not shut off when I plug the line. I messaged tjrunner, so hopefully I hear from him...anybody else have this problem though or have any suggestions?
Last edited by northwestxj; 01-17-2008 at 11:34 PM.. |
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#32 |
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Registered User
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OK, here's the final wiring diagram.
Pink is power to the pump. Black is ground. Red is power to close the pressure release valve. Through a switch, run power to the pink. Also, splice a wire off of it into one side of the wires coming off the diff. The other wire from the diff goes to the red wire on the pump. The wires from the diff only make a connection when the locker is locked, which allows power to close the pressure release valve (red). This also shuts the pump off. When the locker becomes unlocked (ie. due to a leak or the like) the pump will come back on to bring the pressure back up. All pressure is released and the locker unlocks when the switch is turned off. Got mine working and wired up right just today......yes after 15 months!!! This is the correct way to wire it up and it works perfectly!!! I'm sooooo stoked! Gonna get to actually use it for the first time in a couple of weeks at Mega Run at Barnwell Mountain! Northwestxj, I hope this helps! It took me and a couple of friends a few beers to get it figured out! ![]()
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Eric Baker 97 TJ 6" lift, 35 x 1250 MTR's Rubicon 44 front w/factory air locker 8.8 rear w/full Detroit 5.13 gears, SYE, etc, etc, etc.......... |
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#33 | |
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Uncle Paul has spoken...
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Quote:
That's weird how mine wired differently. I wonder if different years had different wiring requirements?
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My Jeep - Video My Jeep in the Snow 92 YJ, 35' MTR Kevlars, Klune/Dana 20, 4.88s, SYE, Rubicon D44s w/Rubicon lockers, front and rear Alloy USA chromoly shafts with 30 spline outers, JK electric swaybar, T&T tube fenders, custom cv driveshafts, RE 4.5 XD springs, M.O.R.E. 5/8'' boomerang shackles + 2' BL, 15lb Powertank, 4.0L TB & TB spacer, ARB Snorkel, K&N filter, rear bumper and tire rack, Rancho 9000s, AtoZ Rockers, Skid-Row Engine skid plate, Teraflex Bellyup, JCR Offroad 1 Ton TieRod, rock lights, RE hand throttle, M.O.R.E. roll cage, corners, 9000lb winch with synthetic cable in-cab winch controller (12voltguy.com), Dual Blue Top Optimas with 12voltguy dual battery controller, a/c (ackits.com) |
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#34 |
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Registered User
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No, it will work by only using the black and pink wires. This just makes the pump run until it is not able to push anymore air through the line and then it just kinda peters out! Just puts a little extra strain on the pump.
Wired up like I have mine, when the switch is on the pump only comes on when the locker is not making a connection (not locked). Well, after looking back at how you wired yours, it does seem to be different as far as the red and pink wires' functions. On mine, the pink is power to the pump and red is power to close the pressure release valve. On yours it seems they are opposite. Red is power to the pump and pink is power to close the pressure release valve. I guess anyone wiring one of these up needs to determine their pumps wiring before they can do them up right. Easy enough to do though. Just connect the black to a good ground and put power to one of the other wires. Whichever wire makes a single "click" sound is the pressure release valve. The other should make the compressor pump. When Northwestxj and I were wiring ours up with red and black to the power and pink to the ground, what we were doing is running the pump in reverse with the valve open which made the pump seem to pump faster. It did pump faster.....it was freewheeling. And Paul, hey as long as yours works the way you have it.....run it!!!!! My pump may be the one thats wired backwards inside! Made in China!!! But it works so I'm gonna wheel the heil out of it! :-D
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Eric Baker 97 TJ 6" lift, 35 x 1250 MTR's Rubicon 44 front w/factory air locker 8.8 rear w/full Detroit 5.13 gears, SYE, etc, etc, etc.......... |
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#35 |
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Registered User
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I'm glad I stumbled across this thread as I was just about to order some new locker pumps for my rubi axles.
I am having the exact same issue that tjrunner had. All I get is a single click when I hook up the red & black wires. So after reading this I went out and tried hooking power to the pink wire and ground to the black and got the same thing, a single click. When I hooked up black & pink to ground and red to power the pump runs and doesn't stop. If I read the post above correctly, hooking power to the pink and the black to ground should make the pump run, just not shut off. I guess i'm just a bit confused here. It seems like I have a similar problem I think I just need a bit of clarification. |
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#36 |
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Registered User
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Hi Jeepguy, what you need to do is ground the black wire and use a power wire on the red OR pink to determine which turns on your pump. One of them will make a single click and the other will turn on the pump. The single click is the closing of the pressure release valve (to hold pressure). Keep in mind this pump does not run very fast.
I will draw up a wiring diagram over the weekend and post it up. Keep checking back.
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Eric Baker 97 TJ 6" lift, 35 x 1250 MTR's Rubicon 44 front w/factory air locker 8.8 rear w/full Detroit 5.13 gears, SYE, etc, etc, etc.......... Last edited by tjrunner; 05-23-2008 at 03:20 AM.. |
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#37 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I hooked the black to ground, then I tried running power to only the red first (makes a click). After that I left the ground alone and ran power to only the pink (also only makes a click). However, If I hook power to the red, then run the pink & black to ground, the pump will run. |
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#38 | |
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Uncle Paul has spoken...
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Quote:
While the pump is running put your finger over the air outlet so that the pressure builds. Does it shut off?
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My Jeep - Video My Jeep in the Snow 92 YJ, 35' MTR Kevlars, Klune/Dana 20, 4.88s, SYE, Rubicon D44s w/Rubicon lockers, front and rear Alloy USA chromoly shafts with 30 spline outers, JK electric swaybar, T&T tube fenders, custom cv driveshafts, RE 4.5 XD springs, M.O.R.E. 5/8'' boomerang shackles + 2' BL, 15lb Powertank, 4.0L TB & TB spacer, ARB Snorkel, K&N filter, rear bumper and tire rack, Rancho 9000s, AtoZ Rockers, Skid-Row Engine skid plate, Teraflex Bellyup, JCR Offroad 1 Ton TieRod, rock lights, RE hand throttle, M.O.R.E. roll cage, corners, 9000lb winch with synthetic cable in-cab winch controller (12voltguy.com), Dual Blue Top Optimas with 12voltguy dual battery controller, a/c (ackits.com) |
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#39 | |
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Registered User
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That will be my next test when I get home tonight. Based on what was stated above:
Quote:
Strangely enough when I first hooked them up a while ago I did it the exact way that you did Paul. Red to positive, black to negative and leave the pink alone. Lo and behold they worked flawlessly as you described. The next day when I came out and tried them again after wiring them to a switch, nothing, just the single click. They've been like that ever since. Makes no sense whatsoever. |
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#40 | |
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Uncle Paul has spoken...
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Quote:
Weird. If you can get the pump running, I'll bet that it will shut off when you plug the air outliet. release your finger and it will start again. That is the way it should work.
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My Jeep - Video My Jeep in the Snow 92 YJ, 35' MTR Kevlars, Klune/Dana 20, 4.88s, SYE, Rubicon D44s w/Rubicon lockers, front and rear Alloy USA chromoly shafts with 30 spline outers, JK electric swaybar, T&T tube fenders, custom cv driveshafts, RE 4.5 XD springs, M.O.R.E. 5/8'' boomerang shackles + 2' BL, 15lb Powertank, 4.0L TB & TB spacer, ARB Snorkel, K&N filter, rear bumper and tire rack, Rancho 9000s, AtoZ Rockers, Skid-Row Engine skid plate, Teraflex Bellyup, JCR Offroad 1 Ton TieRod, rock lights, RE hand throttle, M.O.R.E. roll cage, corners, 9000lb winch with synthetic cable in-cab winch controller (12voltguy.com), Dual Blue Top Optimas with 12voltguy dual battery controller, a/c (ackits.com) |
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#41 |
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Registered User
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Alright so I just got home and tried the pumps wired with pink/black to ground and power to red and they do not shut off even when you put your thumb over the air outlet.
The good news is that somehow, magically, when I hook up pink to power and black to ground they work now. These pumps are very odd. Anyway, I will just follow the wiring instructions by tjrunner above and hopefully they will work as planned. Thanks for all the help guys! Cheers. |
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#42 |
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Registered User
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Anyone know if the pumps are servicable (i.e. can I take them apart)?
I've got them wired up properly and they only work sporadically leading me to believe that they are having some internal issues. They are wired up but one of them runs extremely weak and rarely shuts off. When it does shut off all I have to do is give the jeep a nudge or a shake and it starts going again. The other one won't even turn on even though it is getting power.............. methinks the pumps are toast but wanted to get any more input before I toss them in the garbage. |
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#43 | |
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Uncle Paul has spoken...
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Quote:
__________________
My Jeep - Video My Jeep in the Snow 92 YJ, 35' MTR Kevlars, Klune/Dana 20, 4.88s, SYE, Rubicon D44s w/Rubicon lockers, front and rear Alloy USA chromoly shafts with 30 spline outers, JK electric swaybar, T&T tube fenders, custom cv driveshafts, RE 4.5 XD springs, M.O.R.E. 5/8'' boomerang shackles + 2' BL, 15lb Powertank, 4.0L TB & TB spacer, ARB Snorkel, K&N filter, rear bumper and tire rack, Rancho 9000s, AtoZ Rockers, Skid-Row Engine skid plate, Teraflex Bellyup, JCR Offroad 1 Ton TieRod, rock lights, RE hand throttle, M.O.R.E. roll cage, corners, 9000lb winch with synthetic cable in-cab winch controller (12voltguy.com), Dual Blue Top Optimas with 12voltguy dual battery controller, a/c (ackits.com) |
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#44 |
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Registered User
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Ok, I messed around with it a little more last night and this is what I figured out when I hook the wires up in the following configurations:
Red: Power Black: Ground - nothing, just get a single click from the pumps Pink: Power Black: Ground Red: Power in from wire on diff (spliced power off the pink wire and sent to diff) - will chug very very slowly and doesn't shut off. Checked the voltage and pink wire is getting approx. 12V, the red pressure switch wire gets about 7.5V (not sure why that is) Pink/Black: Ground Red: Power - pump runs like a scalded cat but will not shut off. Maxed out my vacuum gauge at 10psi and it was still going. I hate being a nuisance but I dont' want to spend $200 on new pumps if these ones still work (which the sort of do). Does anyone have a wiring diagram stating exactly what each wire does? Technically, there are 2 red wires (spiced into one by the factory), one black wire, and one pink and one green wire (spliced together into one pink wire). If I knew what each of these wires were for I would be better able to diagnose this problem. Any help is appreciated. Thanks! |
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#45 |
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Registered User
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I found this on pirate:
Q: If you use the pumps from the Rubicon for air, where does the center wire (pink wire) from the pump connector go? Do you even need it? (I do not have the harness from the air pumps to the switches or relays) A: Dont worry about the pink wire unless you are trying to tie it into your tcase, in which case you're on your own. |
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