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Rubicon bypass and 2 locker switch question

4K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  Squint77 
#1 ·
So I have read through all the locker by pass info I can find and I just want to make sure I am doing this correctly since I am combining two mods here are once.
What I want is to do the locker bypass mod so that I can turn on the lockers at any speed and in 2 or 4 wheel high, but have a saftey switch also. This will keep the locker from turning on unless and additional switch is on.
On top of this, I want to change from the factory 1 switch switch to 2 locker switches (front and rear).

This is what I believe would be correct. Can you tell me if my wiring looks right?

(05 Rubicon)

-------------------Pin7
|
| --------------Pin6
| |
| |
(F) (R)
| |
| |
-------------(S)------Pin1
|
|
-------------Pin4
|
-------------Pin5

F = Front locker switch
R = Rear locker switch
S = Safety switch


I already have some switches with 3 connections. Can I use them instead of buying switches with 2 connections?

Thanks for any help!
 
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#5 ·
I don't think you need to do anything with pin 4 and 5. If I remember correctly I ran pin 6 and 7 to their respective switches for front and rear, then ran pin 1 to the safety switch and ran two wires out of the safety switch, one for each locker.

Follow Ken's diagram at the bottom of the link and put a switch on the ground wire. No need to mess with pins 4 and 5 as you are completely defeating the oem locker switch.
 
#6 ·
Pin4 and 5 are the Locker enable signal 1 and locker enable signal 2 which will fool the computer into thinking it is going under 10 MPG and in 4 wheel low...


Another question- for a switch with three female connections on the back, what do I do with the third connection? I believe that is for the led (light), correct? Do I just hook that in with the same wire opposite the pin?
For example pin1 (ground) to one connector on the switch and then Pin6 for the rear locker would connect to both of the other connectors on the switch?
 
#7 ·
Pin 4 and 5 fool the locker if you are using the oem switch. Trust me on this, skip the whole beginning of that write up, go down to Ken's diagram and follow it except use a third switch to switch the ground. Basically when the ground switch is "off" even with the locker switch "engaged" the circuit won't be complete.

Yes the third plug on the switch is for the led light. For the two locker switches I would use the "missile" switches with the cover so for someone to accidentally engage the lockers they would have to turn the safety switch on and flip up the locker switch cover then flip that switch as well. I don't know about you but I'm noticing the passenger do all that way before they engage the lockers. That's also right before I smack the **** out of them.

Edit: I made you a diagram
 

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#8 ·
Ah! I see what you are saying now. I did not even think about the fact that the old switch was going away. Thanks for making that clear.

So, the "cutoff" or safety switch that cuts off the ground should cutoff the locker switches so if I just use the safety switch for that switch only I should be ok right? How would I wire the switches for the lockers with the third LED connection? Was my example correct, or do I need another wire coming in?
 
#9 ·
So, the "cutoff" or safety switch that cuts off the ground should cutoff the locker switches so if I just use the safety switch for that switch only I should be ok right?
Not sure what you are asking but know this... Nothing works with the third safety switch "off". This must be switched on or the locker switches will not engage the lockers.

How would I wire the switches for the lockers with the third LED connection? Was my example correct, or do I need another wire coming in?
Not sure. I don't have light up switches. I have these:
 

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#10 ·
By safety switch I meant the red one with the cover above...
So If I use the one above for the sw3 on your diagram, I was hoping to just use the regular switches for the two locker switches (sw1 and sw2).

Does anyone know what to wire up for the third contact on sw1 and sw2?
I am assuming that since that third wire would normally run to a power source that I can attach Pin1 to one side and then Pin7 to the two other connections on the 3 connection switch. Is this assumption correct or would I need to connect the third to a powersource- for instance the lighter or dash lights...?
 
#11 ·
By safety switch I meant the red one with the cover above...
So If I use the one above for the sw3 on your diagram, I was hoping to just use the regular switches for the two locker switches (sw1 and sw2).
That makes sense. I used a regular toggle switch as my SW3 and then used the ones with the covers for each locker.

I'm not sure what wire you would want to use for the third pron on the switch to activate the LEDs.
 
#14 ·
Help!

Not sure if anyone here can help, but I put this diagram together.
When I hooked it all up, I used this configuration for both lockers- pins 6 and 7.

Well....it does not work for some reason. I don't need to have the original switch plugged in for this to work right?
I was under the impression that I was bypassing that switch alltogether...

When I turn on the power, I am getting power on the load with the switch turned in the off position.
It should only be getting power in the on position... I have double and tripple checked the wiring.
Any ideas why this doesn't work?

 
#15 ·
Ok, I just had the 3 and 1 pins switched (the diagram was correct though).

So here is what I did. I could not find this info on the web so I thought I would share it for anyone wanted to do this mod.

There are two locker switches and 1 "safety" switch that has to be on for the lockers to work. All three have LEDs that light when on and I wired in a red LED light that is very noticeable on the dash when the saftey switch is on.

 
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