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Unread 08-12-2010, 06:21 AM   #16
mjonesjr
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Anyone know what the wiring and air line diagrams for the '06 Rubicon are? I have the axles installed, the pumps mounted, but I need to get them wired and plumbed.

The rear axle pump has 2 outlet ports (1 larger than the other), but no second spot on the axle for it to plug into. The larger air line is in the same factory bundle as the smaller air line (which goes into the diff) and the wiring that shows the lockers are engaged.

Any help is appreciated.

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Unread 08-12-2010, 06:50 AM   #17
F9K9
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If you have the factory air pump bracket installed with the mounting holes down. The upper barbed fitting goes to your axle. The lower ones are routed back towards your fuel fill hose neck as the air intake. IRRC it should have a cap on the end similar to your axle vent hoses. I have the factory FSM but, can't copy and paste for you here.

EDIT......just run one line back to the filler hose. You can "T" into it at the pumps.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 06:55 AM   #18
rideraa
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Here for wiring (BTW this is assuming you are using the OEM pumps)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...r-pump-262686/


Per Axle:
You have 4 wires to contend with 2@ axle & 2 @ pump. These 4 wires do not inter connect.
The 2 @ the diff can be disregaurded, although I would want the indicator light (see below).
And 2 hoses, one of the 2 is an intake port and hooks to nothing. It is there to rout the air inake above flood level as the factory pump location is down by the "T" case. Power up the pump, one is pressure, one vaccum. Pressuse port goes to the diff, vaccum is the intake port.

Plug on diff is the signal (switch) that the locker has engaged. Has nothing to do as a function only reports back that the locker in fact engaged. Pumps stop by themselves based on pressure not this curcuit. The two wires (on diff) can be hooked to an indicator light. I have one light per axle. If you hook them up polarity does not matter.

The pumps IIRC have a pink, black and red wire. Red +12, Black -12, pink does nothing, I traced it back into the harness I got and it was hooked to the red wire. I think the pink wire is in pump motor plug, just don't recall. Don't buy into the pink wire function, for a add in (non factory rubi jeep) install it has no funtion for sure.

Lines are simple, I put my pumps below the hood on the drivers side shelf by brake booster. If you mount the pumps low you may want to add an intake hoses (1 per pump) and get them above flood level, like near top of the hood.
Run hose from pump to the diff connection, one pump for each axle. I used IIRC 3/16 fuel rated rubber hose. (may have been 1/8 ??)

Look at the thread for switch set ups, mine is in there if you like.

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"CHEAP HEAP" TJ, 4.0, 32rh, 231, built D44's, 37s etc.
"George 4man" CJ7, 304, 727, D300, C/O rear w/ stretch, built D44's (4 now) on pane :).

Last edited by rideraa; 08-12-2010 at 11:29 AM..
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Unread 08-12-2010, 07:20 AM   #19
mjonesjr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F9K9 View Post
If you have the factory air pump bracket installed with the mounting holes down. The upper barbed fitting goes to your axle. The lower ones are routed back towards your fuel fill hose neck as the air intake. IRRC it should have a cap on the end similar to your axle vent hoses. I have the factory FSM but, can't copy and paste for you here.

EDIT......just run one line back to the filler hose. You can "T" into it at the pumps.
So the larger tube goes to the fuel filler line for an air intake for the pumps?

If that is the case, how come only 1 pump has the 2 air line fittings on it?


Quote:
Originally Posted by rideraa View Post
Here for wiring (BTW this is assuming you are using the OEM pumps)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...r-pump-262686/


Per Axle:
You have 4 wires to contend with 2@ axle & 2 @ pump. These 4 wires do not inter connect.
The 2 @ the diff can be disregaurded, although I would want the indicator light (see below).
And 2 hoses, one of the 2 is an intake port and hooks to nothing. It is there to rout the air inake above flood level as the factory pump location is by the "T" case. Power up the pump, one is pressure, one vaccum. Pressuse port goes to the diff, vacumm is the intake port.

Plug on diff is the signal (switch) that the locker has engaged. Has nothing to do as a function only reports back that the locker in fact engaged. Pumps stop by themselves based on pressure. The two wires (on diff) can be hooked to an indicator light. I have one light per axle. If you hook them up polarity does not matter.

The pumps IIRC have a pink, black and red wire. Red +12, Black -12, pink does nothing, I traced it back into the harness I got and it was hooked to the red wire. I think the pink wire is in plug, just don't recall. Don't buy into the pink wire function, for a add in (non factory rubi jeep) install it has no funtion for sure.

Lines are simple, I put my pumps below the hood on the drivers side shelf by brake booster. If you mount the pumps low you may want to add an intake hoses (1 per pump) and get them above flood level, like near top of the hood.
Run hose from pump to the diff connection, one pump for each axle. I used IIRC 3/16 fuel rated rubber hose. (may have been 1/8 ??)

Look at the thread for swich set ups, mine is in there if you like.

Thanks for the info.

So the wiring coming from the diff is a normally open switch that closes when the locker is engaged?

I am planning on putting indicator lights somewhere in the dash so I know they are locked.

Are the pumps pretty water tight? Last time I was wheelin, I had some water in the floor. I like the idea of them under the seat, just don't want to soak them and fry them.

On the tubing, is there a reason why only 1 pump has the 2 inlets?
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Unread 08-12-2010, 07:31 AM   #20
rideraa
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So the wiring coming from the diff is a normally open switch that closes when the locker is engaged?

yep... a normally open switch.



not sure on the pump ports
I can look at mine, they came as a set mounted on the factory bracket form the orig. owner.
I looked they look the same to me, maybe you have a busted port. IIRC mudb8 or someone has a thread on reparing pumps & ports



Are the pumps pretty water tight? Last time I was wheelin, I had some water in the floor. I like the idea of them under the seat, just don't want to soak them and fry them.

The factory location is a harsher spot then yours ..
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"CHEAP HEAP" TJ, 4.0, 32rh, 231, built D44's, 37s etc.
"George 4man" CJ7, 304, 727, D300, C/O rear w/ stretch, built D44's (4 now) on pane :).

Last edited by rideraa; 08-12-2010 at 07:42 AM..
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Unread 08-12-2010, 07:40 AM   #21
superslayer
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Wiring those pumps are stupid easy.

Cut the plug off the pump.

Red wire goes to + 12v

Black is - Ground

Run a simple on/off Switch in the cab.

Disregard the other wires (Pink, Green) and disregard the wiring to the axle.

Mount under the hood.

Run rubber hose to the axle and run an intake hose to the cab.

The pump shuts off automatically at 5 PSI when the locker is engaged. its a very KISS design.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 07:48 AM   #22
mjonesjr
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Thanks for the help.

I assume that when power is disconnected to the pumps that they bleed the locker down so it will unlock?

I am going to run indicator lights from the wires off the axle so I know they are locked in.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 08:03 AM   #23
superslayer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjonesjr View Post

I assume that when power is disconnected to the pumps that they bleed the locker down so it will unlock?
You got it.

The one small detail I did forget to mention is I do have a small paper filter over the intake side, just for safe measures.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 08:03 AM   #24
rideraa
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Yes they bleed down. The indicator light will stay on after you turn the locker pump switch off for a tick or so. (providing you indicator is not powerd up by the pump feed)

Don't be alarmed

And when turning on you may need to drive up too maybe 8' sometimes to get the lockers to engage (I'm pretty sure there are pins in the diff that need to align with holes then slide into place)

another tid bit .. the outside air line connection tube changes to a rubber hose inside the diff. The front diff internal rubber hose has twice slid off on me. Once when I got the axles and second about 9 months later. That time I put a plastic zip tie around it. The first time I though maybe the pump was shot cause it would not stop running unless I turned it off and of coarse no engagement.

BTW my pumps are on one 10amp fuse
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"CHEAP HEAP" TJ, 4.0, 32rh, 231, built D44's, 37s etc.
"George 4man" CJ7, 304, 727, D300, C/O rear w/ stretch, built D44's (4 now) on pane :).

Last edited by rideraa; 08-12-2010 at 10:31 AM..
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Unread 08-12-2010, 08:18 AM   #25
mjonesjr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideraa View Post
Yes they bleed down. The indicator light will stay on after you turn the locker pump switch off for a tick or so. (providing you indicator is not powerd up by the pump feed)

Don't be alarmed

And when turning on you may need to drive up too maybe 8' sometimes to get the lockers to engage (I'm pretty sure there are pins in the diff that need to align with holes then slide into place)

another tid bit .. the outside air line connection tube changes to a rubber hose inside the diff. The front diff the internal rubber hose has twice slid off on me. Once when I got the axles and second about 9 months later. That time I put a plastic zip tie around it. The first time I though maybe the pump was shot cause it would not stop running unless I turned it off.

BTW my pumps are on one 10amp fuse
Thanks.

I was going to power the indicator lights from a separate 2A power source so they wouldn't immediately go off with the pump power.

Does the plug coming out of the diff for the indicator lights ground when it closes?
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Unread 08-12-2010, 09:39 AM   #26
rideraa
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Does the plug coming out of the diff for the indicator lights ground when it closes?

No, it is isolated (hence 2 wires), you could make it a low (ie: ground) side switch or hi side (ie: +12).

Based on your line of questioning I'm pretty sure hooking up one way or the other is something you understand.

Ground side switch, you would need to ground one of the wires.
Hot side switch (+12) you would return the second wire to the indicator lamp input and ground the lamp output.

Note: my indicator lights are LED's so polarity when connecting needs to be correct.
__________________
"CHEAP HEAP" TJ, 4.0, 32rh, 231, built D44's, 37s etc.
"George 4man" CJ7, 304, 727, D300, C/O rear w/ stretch, built D44's (4 now) on pane :).

Last edited by rideraa; 08-12-2010 at 10:28 AM..
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Unread 08-12-2010, 09:43 AM   #27
mjonesjr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideraa View Post
Does the plug coming out of the diff for the indicator lights ground when it closes?

No, it is isolated (hence 2 wires), you could make it a low (ie: ground) side switch or hi side (ie: +).

Based on your line of questioning I'm pretty sure hooking up one way or the other is something you understand.

Ground side switch, you would need to ground one of the wires.
Hot (+12) you would return the second wire to the indicator lamp input and ground the lamp out put.

Note: my indicator lights are LED's so polarity when connecting needs to be correct.
Alright, I understand now.

One of the wires coming out needs to go to ground (-) and the other wire needs to go to the indicator light. The second lead coming from the indicator light needs to go to a 12v (+) source.


Thanks for the help.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 10:15 AM   #28
rideraa
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yep thats it (ground side method switching)
the light gets its ground thru the diff switch and is always hot waiting for a ground to light it.

remember if you end up using a LED type light it is polarity sensitive.

.... If it don't light flip the wires on the lamp



A common (incandescent) 12v lamp will light either way they are not polarity sensive
__________________
"CHEAP HEAP" TJ, 4.0, 32rh, 231, built D44's, 37s etc.
"George 4man" CJ7, 304, 727, D300, C/O rear w/ stretch, built D44's (4 now) on pane :).

Last edited by rideraa; 08-12-2010 at 10:30 AM..
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Unread 08-12-2010, 10:17 AM   #29
mjonesjr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideraa View Post
yep thats it

remember if you end up using a LED type light it is polarity sensitive.

.... If don't light the first time flip your wires



A common 12v lamp will light either way they are not polarity sensive
Thanks.

Can't wait to try these out here real soon.
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Unread 08-12-2010, 10:38 AM   #30
rideraa
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You will like them alot , you get alot of benefit if you had stock 3.07 30-35s axles before (unless ur going beyond 35s )

Front
Front locker
Stronger diff
Above 4.88 gearing is possible
4.10 regear

Rear
Rear locker
Stronger axle
4.10 regear
LSD diff
Disc brakes

got mine for @ 2k for the pair .. then sold the 30-35s and recouped some
__________________
"CHEAP HEAP" TJ, 4.0, 32rh, 231, built D44's, 37s etc.
"George 4man" CJ7, 304, 727, D300, C/O rear w/ stretch, built D44's (4 now) on pane :).

Last edited by rideraa; 08-12-2010 at 10:50 AM..
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