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Rubi d44 front under nonrubi wrangler
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Rubi d44 front under nonrubi wrangler
So is it doable? any problems? heard they are narrower than the d30. Its also a 4banger if that matters
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and don't forget to wave ! 97 I4 TJ SEDone 8/13/07: DPG Ultimate Suspension kit: DPG Trailgunner Coils, Old Man Emu HD Shocks, JKS 1.25" BL + 1" MML, JKS Front and Rear Adjustable Track Bars, JKS Quicker Disconnects, 31" BFG A/Ts daily driven 33" BFG A/Ts Wheelin, Personally made Hand Throttle, Airaid air filter, goin for more asap Asking a Jeep to be fast is like asking a brick to fly.-Airborne4X4 |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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It will bolt right in and be exactly the same size. You will need to rig something up to supply air if you want to use the locker though.
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Black 2001 Wrangler SE, stats in profile |
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#3 |
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Savvy Off Road
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tustin, CA - Orange County
Posts: 4,868
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Bolts right up and is teh same WMS. You will need to deal with your drive shaft not being the same length and the U-Joint is a 1330 on the D44. So you can change it witha 1310/1330 combo u-joint.
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#4 | |
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Misconfigured DNS
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Quote:
)I have a '98 TJ with axles from an '05 Rubi under it. The front was a direct bolt-in except for the driveshaft, I had it shortened 1-3/4"s because of the extra length of the D44. You will need a 1310/1330 combination u-joint to connect your driveshaft to the Rubi diff, I'll look the part numbers up for you. Other than that everything will hook right up. Then of course you'll need the air pump and switch for the locker, I did the ashtry/bezel conversion and have my switches for the pumps mounted there and the air pumps for the axles are mounted under the driver's seat. EDIT: Here's the part numbers you'll need for the u-joints - You will need a 1310/1330 combo u-joint to match your stock shafts (1310 smaller) to the D44 yoke (1330 bigger), Spicer part# 5-134X You also might consider changing the u-joint straps to actual u-bolts while you're in there, some folks feel they're stronger than the straps. Easy and not too expensive of a change. Part #'s are Precision brand part# 534-10 for the D35, and I understand they fit D30's and up to some D60's; Spicer part #2-4-6901-1 is the u-bolt for 1310 yokes; Spicer part#2-4-7631-1 is the u-bolt for 1330 yokes. You'll need to drill the yoke holes out with a 5/16" drill. Don't over tighten them. Use Spicer parts if you can find them and carry a spare.
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San Diego JeepForum Section Last edited by StvDiego; 03-19-2008 at 12:10 AM.. |
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#5 |
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JEEP FREAK
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If you're doing this for a strength upgrade, you may want to reconsider.
The TJ D44 shares many of the same weak links as the TJ D30. They have the same outers, u-joints, knuckles, and hubs.
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98 TJ |
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#6 | |
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I broke my what????
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Quote:
Please don't interpret my question as being a smart ***, I really want to know. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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The comparisons of the Rubi 44 to the D30 are often overblown as you can upgrade the 44 to alloy axles which eliminates the problems with the outers fairly inexpensively and will make the axle strong enough to handle 35" tires with no problems offroad as will the factory inner spines and R&P.The u-joints aren't usually an issue unless you plan on going with ginormous tires down the road and there are stronger joints you can swap in if it helps you to sleep at night.
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#8 | |
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JEEP FREAK
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If you're thinking about regearing, you should consider swapping in a high pinion D30 from an XJ. They are cheap and plentiful. A high pinion axle in the front has 2 big advantages. (1) It runs on stronger side of the ring and pinion gears vs. a low pinion axle which runs on the weaker coast side of the gears. (2) The driveshaft is up higher, so you have more clearance under the driveshaft. If you're going to put money in to a D30, it makes sense to spend the extra $75-100 up front on a junkyard axle and start with a high pinion axle.
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98 TJ |
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