Rough Country wheel spacers - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-16-2009, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
JP4LIFE
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Rough Country wheel spacers

What do you folks think about them? Almost half the price of Spidertrax. How much different can a piece of aluminium be I wonder?

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post #2 of 14 Old 02-16-2009, 09:35 PM
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I dont know if I would want to take a chance on wheel spacers.
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post #3 of 14 Old 02-16-2009, 09:37 PM
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post #4 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
a lot actually.
Read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=685684

Rough Country doesn't list their material and it doesn't look like they're hub centric. Doesn't look like they anodized either. You get what you pay for...stick with Spidertrax.
Thanks for the read 04

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post #5 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 06:01 AM
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My friend has been using the RC ones for awhile with hard wheeling with no problems.People read stuff and freak out over things.Paying more doesn't mean they will work any better.LOTS of people buy the cheapo ebay spacers with no problems.Just make sure to use Loctite on the threads.
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post #6 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theboogieman View Post
My friend has been using the RC ones for awhile with hard wheeling with no problems.People read stuff and freak out over things.Paying more doesn't mean they will work any better.LOTS of people buy the cheapo ebay spacers with no problems.Just make sure to use Loctite on the threads.
What up boogie -
Thanks for the input bro.
Yea - although "you get what u pay for" is often true I do know that sometimes you simply overpay...
I'm kickin it around

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post #7 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 06:19 AM
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I've got the cheapo's on my DD and they work fine. I see no benefit in hub centric, since they center with the lugs like every other wheel on the road and off. As a matter of fact my wheels don't even touch the "hub centric" part anyhow so what good is it? And anodizing isn't all that special either IMO.
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 06:27 AM
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I've got the cheapo's on my DD and they work fine. I see no benefit in hub centric, since they center with the lugs like every other wheel on the road and off. As a matter of fact my wheels don't even touch the "hub centric" part anyhow so what good is it? And anodizing isn't all that special either IMO.
There ya go bud.... thx!!
What size you have.. and do ya have any pics

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post #9 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 07:28 AM
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Don't be worried about failure, they are solid aluminum and built to last. We have not had any failures and would not put something on the road that we did not 100% trust. Just make sure to check your lugs periodically.

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post #10 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 07:49 AM
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Don't be worried about failure, they are solid aluminum and built to last. We have not had any failures and would not put something on the road that we did not 100% trust. Just make sure to check your lugs periodically.
what specific grade of aluminum are you using? 6061-0, 6061-T3, 6061-T4, 6061-T6 or something else?
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post #11 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 07:54 AM
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what specific grade of aluminum are you using? 6061-0, 6061-T3, 6061-T4, 6061-T6 or something else?
I think you are the only one who really cares and is worried.I trust RC.
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post #12 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 08:09 AM
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I think you are the only one who really cares and is worried.I trust RC.
probably true. But if they're using 6061-0 & paint, and no hub centric details, then theres the price difference.

Unlike most people...I'm actually concerned with quality, durability and especially safety for this type of application.
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post #13 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 08:30 AM
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probably true. But if they're using 6061-0 & paint, and no hub centric details, then theres the price difference.

Unlike most people...I'm actually concerned with quality, durability and especially safety for this type of application.
Unlimited: I do understand all you are explaining and I am sure it is very helpful to many who do not know better. I agree with you on may levels but..
Playing devils advocate:

But are you also to argue is spidertrax made titanium wheel spacers that they would be "better"?
When mounting wheels are torquing the lugnuts properly, does the hub centric bump in the middle provide and real benefit?
Are the aftermarket wheels that are to be mounted going to be hubcentric?

People like using grade 8 bolts for everything because it is stronger, Most times grade 5 is plenty strong enough though. Please back up your decision of needing a higher grade of Aluminum by showing failures of lesser grade in this application.

My M/T aluminum wheels are not clear coated or anodized. I would not have any problem with a non-painted, non-clear coated or non-anodized wheel spacer. Do I live with an inferior finish? sure. Am I looking at my wheel spacers? No

Ultimately, if you have the extra money and you will sleep better at night, get the more expensive ones. If you are on a budget and need to fill an application, the RC spacers are going to work just fine.

In general, everybody wants the best of the best. We have 10 page threads over bolt strength, which suspension is best, which shocks are better, which SYE is better , which axle to use etc.. You are to agree some of the points are trivial at best for the application of most users.


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post #14 of 14 Old 02-27-2009, 09:30 AM
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Unlimited: I do understand all you are explaining and I am sure it is very helpful to many who do not know better. I agree with you on may levels but..
Playing devils advocate:

But are you also to argue is spidertrax made titanium wheel spacers that they would be "better"?
When mounting wheels are torquing the lugnuts properly, does the hub centric bump in the middle provide and real benefit?
Are the aftermarket wheels that are to be mounted going to be hubcentric?

People like using grade 8 bolts for everything because it is stronger, Most times grade 5 is plenty strong enough though. Please back up your decision of needing a higher grade of Aluminum by showing failures of lesser grade in this application.

My M/T aluminum wheels are not clear coated or anodized. I would not have any problem with a non-painted, non-clear coated or non-anodized wheel spacer. Do I live with an inferior finish? sure. Am I looking at my wheel spacers? No

Ultimately, if you have the extra money and you will sleep better at night, get the more expensive ones. If you are on a budget and need to fill an application, the RC spacers are going to work just fine.

In general, everybody wants the best of the best. We have 10 page threads over bolt strength, which suspension is best, which shocks are better, which SYE is better , which axle to use etc.. You are to agree some of the points are trivial at best for the application of most users.

bairy, read here on hub centric: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=685684

I wouldn't want titanium spacers - the cost would be rediculous

an inferior finish comes more into place when you try to take them off. if they're corroded onto the hub, due to galvanic reactions, oxide layers or mag-chloride use or salted winter, then thats just one more thing you've got to heat up and bang with a BFH, possibly trashing a stud in the process. For example, here in CO, mag-chloride turns aluminum funny colors, in ohio where you're at, the salt destroys aluminum's oxide layer finish and makes it pit.

As for strength of material - if you want to trust your life to a weaker material, go for it.
6061-O - tensile strength: 18,000 psi, yield strength: 8,000 psi
6061-T6 - tensile strength: 42,000 psi, yield strength: 35,000 psi

Thats why I asked what alloy of aluminum they're using - if they're smart, obviously they'll use T6. When I was shopping for wheel spacers, I found most cheapo ebay spacers were plain 6061.

This is the same principle as Schedule 40 vs DOM. You decide what you want to buy for your application.

btw, I've seen pictures of Spidertrax (6061-T6) spacers cracked in half - possibly due to over-torquing lug nuts.
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