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Unread 07-29-2010, 10:06 PM   #46
ElementX
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: SVG, CA
Posts: 146
Here's some pics of the trackbar drop bracket. After drilling the 29/32" holes, the crush sleeves slipped right in with room to spare. After bolting it all in, I noticed that with the supplied washers, the bolts do not reach the end of the nuts.

1) Drilling the 29/32" holes
2) Crush sleeves in place; to the right is a washer for the factory track bar mount. I was wondering if anyone else was concerned about that washer deforming into the hole? The raised lip around the hole is a little smaller than the diameter of the washer.
3) drop bracket bolted onto frame

imga0925.jpg   imga0929.jpg   imga0931.jpg  
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Unread 07-30-2010, 08:04 PM   #47
ElementX
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I got my sawzall blades in the mail today. I ordered the Milwaukee Torch blades with 18 tpi and they were tough as advertised, but didn't cut as fast as the Craftsman bimetal 14tpi blades I was using before. I got my front LCA brackets cut off, but haven't cleaned up the leftovers on the frame.

I then put my skid plate back on with 3/4" worth of washers to drop it lower. With the RC CA brackets and the washers, my skid is 1.5" lower than stock which should be good for a 4" lift without a SYE.
imga0935.jpg  
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Unread 07-30-2010, 08:14 PM   #48
ElementX
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I then started assembling the front control arms. I pulled the first lower arm out of the box and went to work screwing in the joint, which was a freakin endurance test. I think there was too much paint in the threads. The joint went in about 1.5 turns and wouldn't go further. I kept checking the threads but they looked fine. I had to put the joint end in a vise, put a short shovel handle through the bushing end and twist like a mofo to get that joint in. Once it was about 2 inches away from the recommended length, it started spinning a lot easier.

The other LCA was easy as pie, as were the UCA's. Then I noticed that one of my LCA's was missing the grease fitting. And upon closer inspection, it was broken off! I found it in the box so it must of came off during shipping. I think I saw it

Anyone know of an easy way to get the broken end out?
imga0933.jpg   imga0934.jpg  
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Last edited by ElementX; 07-30-2010 at 08:45 PM..
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Unread 07-30-2010, 08:34 PM   #49
jermeyg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElementX View Post
I then started assembling the front control arms. I pulled the first lower arm out of the box and went to work screwing in the joint, which was a freakin endurance test. I think there was too much paint in the threads. The joint went in about 1.5 turns and wouldn't go further. I kept checking the threads but they looked fine. I had to put the joint end in a vise, put a short shovel handle through the bushing end and twist like a mofo to get that joint in. Once it was about 2 inches away from the recommended length, it started spinning a lot easier.

The other LCA was easy as pie, as were the UCA's. Then I noticed that one of my LCA's was missing the grease fitting. And upon closer inspection, it was broken off! I found it in the box so it must of came off during shipping. Anyone know of an easy way to get the broken end out?
Eeek, sorry about that zirk fitting be stuck there. Maybe you can get a left handed drill bit and possibily get it to spin out? Also another option would be an easy out.

If that doesn't work you could always take apart the joint and drill the fitting till it spins enough to get it out from the inside.

Thats all I could think of that would work well in the confined space. Perhaps others will have better ideas.
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Unread 07-30-2010, 09:16 PM   #50
ElementX
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Thanks for the suggestions! I think I have some ez outs somewhere, so hopefully they're small enough to fit. Unfortunately the grease fitting broke a tad bit deeper than flush.
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Unread 07-31-2010, 07:22 AM   #51
leaf777
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I'll bet RC will overnite you a new joint if you ask. As far as the 2.2's go...everyone has an opinion, mine is they feel very nice.
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Unread 08-01-2010, 11:08 PM   #52
asknight
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Originally Posted by ElementX View Post
Thanks for the suggestions! I think I have some ez outs somewhere, so hopefully they're small enough to fit. Unfortunately the grease fitting broke a tad bit deeper than flush.
Go to your local auto parts house or farm supply store and ask for a "grease zerk installation tool." It's a small 4 way wrench with an ez-out on one end, a properly threaded tap, and two socket ends for installing both straight and angled zerks. They save my tail often dealing with farm implements and such.



GREASE ZERK FITTING INSTALLATION TOOL RETHREAD EASYOUT
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Unread 08-05-2010, 11:10 PM   #53
ElementX
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Thanks guys. I couldn't find my easy-outs so I went to Autozone the other day and picked up a 1/4" one. Unfortunately, they did not have the grease fitting tool.

I went home and removed the joint with the broken grease fitting and put it in a vise. I tried the easy-out, but it was a big failure, and basically just spun inside the hole and never really did bite. I'll call RC tomorrow and see what they can do for me.
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Unread 08-06-2010, 10:43 PM   #54
ElementX
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I got some more work done today on the install. The entire front end is all hooked up except the track bar. The rear is all hooked up except the trackbar, springs, and shocks. I decided to keep my front JKS disconnects, and rear RE sway bar links, and ProComp SS brake lines, since all were still in good condition. I am wondering why there are no rear bumpstops included with this kit. I already have RE 2" bumpstop extensions in the rear and decided to keep them on.

Because I am not installing a SYE and DC driveshaft at this time, I am also keeping my RE rear trackbar relocation bracket because its made for a slip yoke. The rear arms are adjusted per instructions, but they were meant for use with the RC trackbar relocation bracket that tilts your pinion up. I guess I need to get everything back onto the ground with tires on so I can figure out if I need to lengthen the lower arms, or shorten the upper arms.


I also need to set toe in the front, and get my steering wheel lined up again.
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Last edited by ElementX; 08-06-2010 at 10:58 PM..
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Unread 08-09-2010, 09:37 AM   #55
ElementX
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I'm about 95% done. I've got everything bolted in, but not torued to spec yet. Apparently I've lost my 1/2" torue wrench and need to get another one.

I don't think my rear shocks are going to contact the exhaust pipe, however my passenger-side rear ULA is touching the corner of the muffler when all for tires are on the ground. Looks like I need to get some modifications done.
imga0976.jpg   imga0977.jpg   imga0980.jpg   imga0982.jpg  
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Unread 08-09-2010, 08:57 PM   #56
2003X
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Cool build thread, I want this kit so bad. You should post your findings in this thread, the RC vendor checks it everyday and answers questions.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ro.../index110.html
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Unread 10-18-2010, 02:28 PM   #57
biugly78cj5
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so how did the finished product end up?....does it ride better or more of a waste?.i am lookin into this kit for my DD TJ and lookin for a better ride....
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Unread 10-18-2010, 02:50 PM   #58
Dr_Jim
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bump.....ditto....what are your thoughts now???
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Unread 10-18-2010, 07:39 PM   #59
2003X
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bump.....ditto....what are your thoughts now???
x3
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Unread 12-27-2010, 06:43 AM   #60
inglisleslie
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update?
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