Rough Country Long Arm kit for my TJ? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 87 Old 07-24-2010, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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Yes. The first thing I did when I pulled out the brackets was measure the amount of drop/thickness. For those interested, it drops your skid exactly 3/4".


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post #32 of 87 Old 07-25-2010, 06:47 PM
leaf777
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yea it acts as a built in t-case drop which may be a good thing if your not installing an SYE/DC shaft. the holes on the inside of my frame rail were not on target but a sharp bit went right through the frame and RC's mount... close enough, the skid bolts hold the mount in place the frame bolts are just added strength.
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post #33 of 87 Old 07-26-2010, 12:29 AM
armyRN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElementX View Post
Yes. The first thing I did when I pulled out the brackets was measure the amount of drop/thickness. For those interested, it drops your skid exactly 3/4".
So who sells a skidplate with a one-inch raise?
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post #34 of 87 Old 07-26-2010, 07:33 AM
leaf777
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I installed the UCF ultra high skid, its about 1" deep. It needed a 1 1/4" BL .
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post #35 of 87 Old 07-26-2010, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
ElementX
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I am waiting on new 17/32 bits that I ordered, so today I will try to drill out the other holes for the CA brackets so that they're started with the smaller bits. Then hopefully I'll be able to put the skid back on and start grinding the stock CA brackets.

I noticed that the RC brake lines are larger in diameter than the Procomp lines I currently have on my TJ. They look twice as big.

I have the u-turn steering up front and haven't decided what to do about the RC front trackbar drop bracket and drop pitman arm.

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post #36 of 87 Old 07-26-2010, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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I got all the holes for the CA brackets drilled up to 1/2".

For the record, the driver's side inner frame has enough room to use a right-angle drill with a 1/2" step bit (HF). I did not have to remove the front driveshaft. After drilling pilot holes, the step bit works fast and easy at widening the holes.

The passenger's side inner frame does NOT have anywhere near enough room for a right-angle drill. The exhaust system is about 3-4" away from the frame and blocks the area you need to drill through. The exhaust would have to be completely removed from the header-back or cut about a foot before the cat. I tried my luck with drilling pilot holes from the outside of the frame, through the inner side. Of course none of them came out straight, and I had to drill a 2nd hole in each to try to center the bigger bits. From there, I had to manually change out my drill bits and do the manual step up since the step bit was about 2" too short to reach.

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post #37 of 87 Old 07-27-2010, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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I worked on disconnecting the front suspension today. LCA's, front trackbar, spring retainer clips, springs, and shocks are all removed. I don't know if I should install the trackbar drop bracket and drop pitman arm because of my u-turn steering system.

No spring compressor needed on the 4" Tera springs that came out. I just had to put my foot on the end of the axle and push down slightly and pulled the springs out with ease. I had RE bump stops that I had epoxied instead of drilling and tapping for bolts. After 5 yrs, the epoxy was gummy and I was able to pry the bumpstops off pretty easily.

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post #38 of 87 Old 07-27-2010, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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Both front LCA brackets are now cut on the middle and outside frame rail. I don't have enough room to fit my angle grinder on the inner frame so I'll probably finish cutting the LCA brackets tomorrow with the sawzall. My drill bit should show up tomorrow so I'll be able to finish the holes for the RC CA brackets through the frame and put the skid back on.

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post #39 of 87 Old 07-27-2010, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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Here's some pics of the LCA brackets. Notice the artwork on there. I first started grinding at the welds and found out that it was going to take forever, so I switched over to a cutting disc and started slashing below the welds closer to the bottom of the frame. I'd rather clean up the frame later rather than now. I was thinking an air chisel would of made this job easier.

I probably spent 15 ins grinding before I made the switch and was able to cut what you see in the pics in about 5-10 mins each.
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IMGA0918.JPG   IMGA0919.JPG   IMGA0921.JPG  

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post #40 of 87 Old 07-27-2010, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElementX View Post
Thanks for all the information everyone! I've decided to go with the Rough Country 4" long arm kit. I probably shouldn't be buying a complete lift kit right now, but hey I need new shocks because the SkyJacker nitros I currently have on my TJ are too stiff. I'll have to sell off my current lift parts to help cover that gap between the upgrade kit and the full kit.
If you got the RC 2.2 shocks, you're not going to get a softer ride. They are advertised as a "performance" shock and definitely feel like you're riding in a stiff suspended sports car.
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post #41 of 87 Old 07-29-2010, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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I was really hoping the RC 2.2 shocks aren't as bad as some people say, but that's just wishful thinking. I probably should of gone straight to the bilsteins.

Anyone know what a reasonable asking price is for the 2.2 shocks if I decide to sell them NIB?

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post #42 of 87 Old 07-29-2010, 04:54 PM
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ElementX--You have a PM regarding your shocks.

OlllllllO
Float Test Build
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post #43 of 87 Old 07-29-2010, 04:59 PM
viperbluelx
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My 2.2's and RC springs ride much better after flexing it out a few times.

04 Rubicon, 5.5" RE LA with Tri-link, 35" KM2, 4.88's
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post #44 of 87 Old 07-29-2010, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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Ok I am stoked now, I finally finished drilling all the holes for the RC CA brackets and I also drilled out the holes for the front trackbar drop bracket. I'm almost done with the hard parts. I thought I had enough saw blades, but the wrong kind (too few teeth) so I'll be biking to Home Depot tomorrow to get the right kind to finish cutting off my LCA brackets. The rest should go pretty smooth until I get to the rear end where there might be clearance issues with the exhaust.

The set of silver & deming drill bits I got from Amazon (Grip brand) suck. The Champion brand 17/32 bit I ordered as a single was great. I am seriously impressed with the Harbor Freight step drill bits. They were super easy to use.

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post #45 of 87 Old 07-29-2010, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
ElementX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viperbluelx View Post
My 2.2's and RC springs ride much better after flexing it out a few times.
When the shocks were newly installed, was the ride really harsh? To put it into perspective, would you endure a 2 hr commute every day in your TJ with the RC 2.2's if you weren't a Jeep fan?

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la , long arm , long arm upgrade , long arms , rc , rough country , rough country la

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