[myrddin]

Hello guys, I just received my 4 inch lift from Jeffery at Rough Country which I would like to say is a pleasure to work with. I have some pics but need to upload them to post (don’t worry forum supporter soon)... But for now I just wanted to give my beginning impression...

Rough Country customer service is fantastic, they try hard to keep the customer happy. Jeffery helped me out by allowing me to send him a money order ( thanks Jeffery for the hook up if you are reading it all worked out). It only took 2 days to get the kit which was nicely boxed in 7 small packages. I have not taken all inventory but am confident that it’s all there...


Thursday (Steps 1-8) - 1.5 hours (was in no hurry)
Friday (Steps 9-14) - 2 hours (Did inventory found that some hardware was missing or no good, also found out that the front sway bar links were the old style with straight links and and not the new style with the frame bracket)


Per Rough Country’s Install Doc (My pics are coming - Taking them as I go)

1. The front-end components are installed first.
2. Place the vehicle on a level surface. Set the parking
brake. Center front wheels and chock rear wheels. Remove
the upper stud nut, retainer and grommet from
both of the front shocks using a 15mm socket.
3. Jack up the front of the vehicle and place jack stands on
the frame rail behind the lower control arm mount on the
frame. Installation is done one side at a time.
3. Remove the front tires and wheels.
4. Remove both of the front sway bar end links using a
18mm wrench & T55 torx bit from the axle and a 15mm
for the upper stud. Place a floor jack underneath the
axle for support and complete the removal of the front
shock absorbers using a 13mm wrench. Retain the
stock lower hardware for reuse.

5. Do not reuse the original factory shocks.
6. If your axle is equipped, mark the position of the lower control arm cam bolt and axle brackets for installation reference.
See Photo 1. If equipped with ABS brakes, remove the sensor wires and clamps from the inside of the
lower arms and save clamps for re-use.

7. Remove the track rod from the axle and from the frame using a 15mmwrench for the axle and a 19mm wrench for
the frame..
8. Insert the supplied tapered sleeve in the frame mount as shown in Photo 2.
9. Install the EVIL track rod bracket as shown with the 1/2” x 1 3/4” bolt, washer & nut in the stock track rod mount. Make
sure the EVIL bracket is flat against the frame. Snug but do not fully tighten at this time.
(Note: Here I do not have the bolts in place that should be there Nuts werer wong size and I was missing 2 bolts and 5 washers).

10.Using the EVIL bracket as a guide, mark and drill the two side holes through the inner and outer frame as shown in
Photo 4 using a 17/32” drill bit. Make sure to keep the drill level when drilling.

11.Remove the EVIL bracket and enlarge the outside holes only using a 29/32” bit.
12.Install the supplied crush sleeves and reinstall the bracket.
Mark location of Eccentric Bolt
13. Secure to the frame using the supplied 1/2” x 3 1/2”
bolts, washers and nuts & 1/2” x 1 3/4” bolts & nuts.
Tighten the 1/2” x 1 3/4” bolts to 65ft/lbs and the 1/2” x
3 1/2’ bolts to 80ft/lbs. Tighten using a 3/4” wrench &
3/4 socket.

14. Remove the coil spring clip located on the bottom coil
seat on the driver side of the vehicle using a 13mm
wrench. Lower the axle and remove the coil spring. A
coil spring or strut compressor may be needed to remove
the stock coil spring.
15. Remove the stock lower control arm by removing the
nut, cam, and cam bolt (if equipped) from the axle
bracket using a 21mm socket & wrench and then removing
the nut and bolt from the frame bracket doing
one side at a time using a 21mm socket & wrench.
16. Lubricate control arm bushings with a lithium grease or equivalent and install in the Rough Country control arm.
Adjust to 3/8” longer than the stock arm for a pre-alignment starting point. Tighten the jam nut using a 1 13/16”
wrench or a large crescent wrench and install on the vehicle with the offset to the bottom using factory hardware
as shown in Photo 7 & 8. Do not tighten at this time. If applicable, drill a 23/64” hole into each lower link and reinstall
the ABS sensor wires. Use the original clamps.
17. Remove the stock upper control arm by removing the factory hardware from the axle & frame bracket using a
15mm wrench, doing one side at a time.
18. Adjust arm to 1/4” longer than the stock arm for a prealignment
starting point. Tighten the jam nut using a 1
1/8” wrench and install on the vehicle using factory
hardware – See Photo 9. Do not tighten at this time.

19. Install the coil spring. A coil spring or strut compressor
will be needed for the new coil spring installation.
Compress the new coil spring and install the new
spring into the upper and lower spring pockets. Carefully
remove the compressor and make sure the coil is
seated properly in the coil seat by rotating the spring
so the pig tail end fits in the spring pocket. Install the
coil spring clamp using a 13mmwrench and torque to
16ft.-lbs.

20. Repeat steps on other side.
21. Lubricate bushings with a lithium grease or equivalent and install the new bushings and sleeves in the Rough
Country track rod with the 7/16” ID sleeve in the axle end and the 12mm ID sleeve on the frame end.
Offset on arm will install to bottom as shown
22.Remove the cotter pin and nut from the drag link at the pitman arm using a 19 wrench. Retain the nut and cotter
pin to be reused. Separate the drag link ball stud from the pitman arm with a puller tool. Do not use a pickle fork.

23.Mark the position of the original pitman arm. Remove the nut and washer from the steering gear box using a
33mm socket. Align and install new pitman arm on the steering gear shaft. Install the washer, nut and tighten to
185 ft. lbs using 33mm socket.
24.Reinstall the drag link to the pitman arm using stock nut & tighten nut using a 19mm wrench. Install cotter pin.

25.Locate the front Rough Country Nitro shock absorber Part # 651997 or RCX Front Shock part #660579 and install
in the factory lower mounts with the factory hardware. Install the new upper stud bushings and tighten the
upper mounting point using a 9/16” wrench, slightly bulging the bushing. Do not over tighten stud bushing.
Tighten the bar pin on the bottom of the shock with the stock hardware using a 13 wrench. Note: RCX 2.2 Series
shock absorbers will install with the body up and the piston rod down.

26.Repeat this on the opposite side of the vehicle. Install the tires, wheels and tighten lug nuts to factory specs.
27.Lower the vehicle to the ground.

28.Install the track rod in the factory mount on the axle with the supplied 7/16” x 2 3/4” bolt, washers & nut. Do not
tighten at this time.

29.Swing up the track rod and adjust as necessary to center the vehicle over the axle and install in the new track rod
bracket with the supplied 12mm x 65mm bolt, washer and flange nut. Tighten to 55 ft/lbs using a 18mm wrench
and snug the jam nut using a 1 1/2” wrench. See Photo 11. It is important to center the vehicle over the axle
to ensure proper tracking and alignment.
30.Install the sway bar hoop on the top of front sway bar where the stock link was secured, using the supplied 3/8” x
1.25” bolt, washer and flanged lock nut. Tighten using a 9/16” wrench & socket. See Photo 12.
31.Install the 12mm sleeves provided on the top side of the sway bar link at this time and use the supplied 12mm x
65mm bolts nuts/washer to install in new hoop bracket. See Photo 13. Tighten using a 18mm socket & wrench.
Please note the bolt installs pointing outward away from the frame.
31.Install the supplied pin on the axle as shown in Photo 14 using a screwdriver as shown and a 19mm wrench.
32.Remove the bolts securing the plastic shroud to the frame that covers the sway bar and install the driver and passenger
side frame mount brackets using the factory holes and the supplied 1/4” x 3/4” bolts & washers. Tighten
using a 13mm wrench. See Photo 15. Please note there is a passenger and driver side bracket.
33.Swing the sway bar link down and install on the lower axle mounting pin. Install the disconnect pin & washer on
the outside as shown.

34.When disconnecting the sway bar, remove the sway bar link / washer and place it on the frame mount as shown in
Photo 17 to keep the sway bar link from interfering with front end components.
35.Remove the stock brake line from metal line at frame rail using a T40 torx bit and also on caliper. Retain stock
hardware to reinstall the brake line. A catch pan is recommended to contain fluid. See Photo 18.
36.Install the new brake line bracket on the frame rail as shown using a T40 torx bit with supplied brake line clip. Install
the new Rough Country brake line on the stock metal line and install on the caliper with stock caliper bolt and
brake line washers. See Photo 19.
37.The brake system will be bled after the rear components have been installed.
38.Tighten the upper suspension arms to 65 ft. lbs using a 21mm wrench & socket (both sides).
39.Align the reference marks on the adjustment cams and lower arm axle brackets and tighten to 85 ft. lbs using a
21mm wrench & socket.

REAR INSTALLATION
PHOTO 1 PHOTO 2
PHOTO 3 PHOTO 4
13. Install the new Rough Country coil springs making sure the rubber damper in positioned in the upper mount.
Please note that there is a driver and passenger side coil. The passenger coil has the larger rod diameter. It will
be necessary to use a coil spring or strut compressor to install the new coil springs.
14. Jack up the axle to compress the coil spring and to align the track rod with the new mounting point. Install using
the supplied 12mm x 65mm bolt and flange lock nut. Do not tighten at this time.
15. Install the rear Rough Country Nitro shock absorbers Part #650411 or RCX 2.2 Shock absorber Part #660576
on the upper and lower shock mounts with the factory hardware using a 15mm & 18mm wrench. RCX 2.2 Series
shock absorbers are designed to be installed with the piston down and body up.
16. Reinstall the wheels and tires. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts to the factory
specifications using crossing pattern (80-110 ft. lbs).
17. On the rear, assemble the sway bar bushings and 10mm sleeves in the new rear extended sway bar links.
Secure the links to the stock location, using the 10mm x 60mm bolt, washers and nuts supplied. On the upper
mounts you will reuse the factory flag nut. Tighten to 40 ft. lbs using a 15mm wrench & socket.
18. Tighten lower arm pivot bolts to 130 ft. lbs using a 21mm socket & wrench
19. Tighten the rear track bar mounting bolts to 74 ft. lbs using a 18mm socket & wrench.
20. Please refer to the transfer case instructions included with that kit for transfer case drop bracket install.
21. Bleed brake system.
1. Rotate driveshaft and check for interference at differential yoke and CV joint. If necessary, lightly grind casting(s)
and/or U-joint tabs in order to eliminate binding.
2. Bleed brake lines and test brakes before driving. Check for leaks.
3. Have a qualified alignment center realign front end to factory specs. As a general rule you set caster to the minimum
of the factory spec and set toe-in to the maximum.
4. Install Warning to Driver decal on sun visor.
5. Adjust headlights to proper settings.
6. Grease all control arms and periodically grease as required.
7. Re-torque all nuts and bolts after the first 100 miles, again after another 100 miles and then check periodically
thereafter.
8. All components must be retightened after 500 miles, and every three thousand miles after installation.
POST INSTALLATION
TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS
Problem: Driveline Vibrations
Possible Solution: Check all u-joints to insure that there is no wear on the existing hardware caps. Even a new
vehicle can cause vibrations in the angle on the U-joint is changed after being run for even a short period of time.
Possible Solution: Driveline vibrations can be caused from the removal or addition of the hardtop which changes the
rear vehicle weight, and the rear height, which affects the rear drive shaft pinion angle. Rough Country adjustable
upper control arms, will eliminate such vibrations by adjusting / rotating the rear pinion angle up or down as needed.
Possible Solution: A slip yoke eliminator & CV drive shaft are highly recommended for this kit. Transfer case drop
brackets must be installed with the 4” lift if a SYE and CV drive shaft are not used.
Problem: Your Jeep does not steer, or track correctly.
Possible Solution: The steering geometry is corrected when the pitman arm is installed. If the steering is short or
offset after installing the lift with the pitman arm, the alignment shop should adjust the linkages on the front axle to
line the steering geometry back.
Problem: You experience “High Speed Wobble” after hitting bump at 35-40mph.
Possible Solution: “Death wobble” is usually a combination of items and typically there are is not one easy fix. We
recommend you follow these steps when trying to identify source. Start by looking for any loose movement in the
steering. Watch the tie-rod ends where they connect to the steering knuckle arms. Watch the drag link and the ends.
Watch the track bar—it should remain tight without side to side movement when dry turning. Check to make sure your
wheel bearing are in good condition by jacking up Jeep and grabbing top of the wheel and try to rock it back and
forth. Make sure your tires are balanced—we recommend they be “road force” balanced. Is your front end in
alignment? Lack of proper caster angles may be the problem. Last but not least is the steering stabilizer. A new
stabilizer will not fix the problem, but a worn out one will make the situations worse. Most aftermarket stabilizers
significantly dampen the movement that is the precursor to death wobble—control this and the severity is limited.
Before Pic:

Here you can see how the front stock coils were shot due to the weight of the winch:

Here you can see the upper and lower control arms:


More coming..

[hyperboarder]

I'm working on the same install right now, but with axle swaps, SYE/CV DS, and other goodies, long build. Great instructions, have fun with that bracket, it took me a bit but it works well. My advice: a cheap 1/2" drill bit can ream a hole to 29/32" pretty quickly for a lot less money. Also, start soaking your pitman arm with PB blaster now and get yourself a hammer, a pitman puller, and a case of beer for that treat.

[herculz]

I ordered my kit with the SYE, and CV shaft and 2.2 shock upgrades, so far its been 3days since we ordered and about 2 weeks left. cant waiy

[ccwrangler]

yeah Jeff is awesome, great customer service. I just got my 4" x lift on yesterday and it rides 10x better than my old TJ with 4" procomp on it.

[herculz]

Any pics? Is your done up with the tcase drop or SYE? CV Shaft? No vibes on highway?

[mdm]

Originally Posted by myrddin

...nicely boxed in 7 small packages. I have not taken all inventory but am confident that it’s all there...

Today Thursday, I have started the removal of stock parts to begin the install of the kit...

You're a brave man.

[grogie]

Please do let us know how this install goes and what you think of it once it's on. I'm considering it myself.

Thanks.

[NotURMailman]

[QUOTE=myrddin;6934798]I have not taken all inventory but am confident that it’s all there...[/QUOTE]

I strongly suggest that you stop what you are doing and inventory the kit. When my 6" X kit arrived that was the first thing I did. One of my hardware bags was missing a few bolt and two of the lynch pins for the front sway bar discos. I would like to add however that when I called Rough Country about it they sent me a whole new hardware bag with no questions asked and I got it the next day!

[ccwrangler]

Originally Posted by herculz

Any pics? Is your done up with the tcase drop or SYE? CV Shaft? No vibes on highway?

well, I have a 1.25" BL and 1" MML, stock rubi driveshaft, and NO VIBES whatsoever with no TC drop.

heres some pics of it:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/6933245-post7.html

[C2U5H]

Originally Posted by ccwrangler

well, I have a 1.25" BL and 1" MML, stock rubi driveshaft, and NO VIBES whatsoever with no TC drop.

heres some pics of it:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/6933245-post7.html

How does the kit ride on-road with the RC 2.2 shocks?

[RCXTREME]

[QUOTE=hyperboarder;6935451 get yourself a hammer, a pitman puller, and a case of beer for that treat.[/QUOTE]


You got it all wrong, supposed to be a case of beer, a pitman arm puller and a big freakin hammer. The order of needs were all wrong.

Yeah, I would definately go through and make sure all is there. I would hate to have you tear down and be missing something really important. With mail order and humans being involved things can go wrong.

[TheBoogieman]

Originally Posted by RCXTREME

With mail order and humans being involved things can go wrong.

RC employs humans

[hyperboarder]

Originally Posted by RCXTREME

You got it all wrong, supposed to be a case of beer, a pitman arm puller and a big freakin hammer. The order of needs were all wrong.

Yeah, I would definately go through and make sure all is there. I would hate to have you tear down and be missing something really important. With mail order and humans being involved things can go wrong.

I think the proper way is interspersing the beer between the two, something like beer, puller, beer, hammer, beer. Add more beer as necessary. Either way, once you get it off breathe a big sigh of relief. Then have another beer.

On a different note, I was missing a couple nuts for the quick discos, but I'll just go get those at the hardware store. Otherwise everything was there.

[Warpman89]

I would like to see more new 4" x-series pics please. I did a search and found nothing, but i see here that a few people have the new rc lift so lets see some pictures!

[RuffTJ]

Originally Posted by Warpman89

I would like to see more new 4" x-series pics please. I did a search and found nothing, but i see here that a few people have the new rc lift so lets see some pictures!

Ask and you shall receive




I love this kit. I installed it myself and all went pretty smooth. I was also missing a sway bar disco nut but jeff at RC sent me out a replacement bag of hardware real quick. Great service.