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Unread 09-03-2012, 09:10 AM   #16
mrblaine
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Originally Posted by Muddeprived View Post
So now it seems I do have the right hub/rotor combination but still gotta figure out the strange brake wear on the inside of the rotors. Hmm.....
Another way to tell is by where the pads sit on the sliders. If you have the early unitbearings and the later rotors, the outer pad will be right at the end of the slider and just about to hang over the end of it or slide off to the outside.

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Unread 10-23-2012, 09:15 PM   #17
OnTheFence
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So, the composite rotors for a 1998 will be 82mm?
Can anyone help me find composite rotors at RockAuto?
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Unread 10-23-2012, 09:38 PM   #18
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So, the composite rotors for a 1998 will be 82mm?
Can anyone help me find composite rotors at RockAuto?
I don't know why you want composite. I would just get the Centric Premium versions which are full cast and be done with it.

On Rock Auto the part number for that rotor under the 98 Wrangler heading will be 12067022.

Elsewhere it should be 120.67022 and the econo series is 121.67022 or leave out the dot for R/A.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 10:23 PM   #19
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are all aftermarket unit bearings have the same configurations? Or are they year specific?


if they are different and you wanted to have your front wheels stick out further (not by much) you would want the 99 and older bearings?
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Unread 10-24-2012, 07:11 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Another way to tell is by where the pads sit on the sliders. If you have the early unitbearings and the later rotors, the outer pad will be right at the end of the slider and just about to hang over the end of it or slide off to the outside.
Fascinating. A few years ago I replaced the rotors on my '00 TJ with slotted ones. When I installed them, the "offset" or top hat dimension was too small so I machined a spacer to fit over the studs between the outside face of the hub and the inside face of the rotor to correct it Oftentimes aftermarket motorcycle parts need a little "custom" work to make them fit, so I assumed the same principle was in effect. That was, in fact, the first mod I did to my wife's jeep and frankly did not know better I suppose.
Having read this thread, I just went out and looked and sure enough, the pads are right at the edge of the rotor. I guess I got the wrong size.
Before anyone predicts doom upon me, this was back in maybe '07 and about 60,000 miles ago. So far they have worked fine, better than OEM in fact.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 07:46 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by gtospeeding View Post
are all aftermarket unit bearings have the same configurations? Or are they year specific?


if they are different and you wanted to have your front wheels stick out further (not by much) you would want the 99 and older bearings?
The difference is slightly less than 1/4". If you wanted your wheels to stick out that much further, there are other ways to accomplish that without buying new unitbearings.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 07:48 AM   #22
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Fascinating. A few years ago I replaced the rotors on my '00 TJ with slotted ones. When I installed them, the "offset" or top hat dimension was too small so I machined a spacer to fit over the studs between the outside face of the hub and the inside face of the rotor to correct it Oftentimes aftermarket motorcycle parts need a little "custom" work to make them fit, so I assumed the same principle was in effect. That was, in fact, the first mod I did to my wife's jeep and frankly did not know better I suppose.
Having read this thread, I just went out and looked and sure enough, the pads are right at the edge of the rotor. I guess I got the wrong size.
Before anyone predicts doom upon me, this was back in maybe '07 and about 60,000 miles ago. So far they have worked fine, better than OEM in fact.
Did you mean the pads are right at the edge of the sliders they ride on? All of them are close to the edge of the rotor.

By now though, yours should have moved inwards some due to pad wear.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 08:15 AM   #23
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Did you mean the pads are right at the edge of the sliders they ride on? All of them are close to the edge of the rotor.

By now though, yours should have moved inwards some due to pad wear.
I am used to pads leaving a small, maybe 1/8" edge around the rotor surface, whereas these are shiny right to edge.
Define what you mean by "sliders". I assume you are referring to part of the caliper, said caliper slides on the retaining bolts which presses the inner pad against the rotor, while the caliper piston pushes the outer pads which have grooves on each end which slide against posts cast into the body of the caliper.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 08:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Bigshankhank View Post
I am used to pads leaving a small, maybe 1/8" edge around the rotor surface, whereas these are shiny right to edge.
Define what you mean by "sliders". I assume you are referring to part of the caliper, said caliper slides on the retaining bolts which presses the inner pad against the rotor, while the caliper piston pushes the outer pads which have grooves on each end which slide against posts cast into the body of the caliper.
The posts cast onto the knuckle that the ends of the pads slide on.

More correctly they would be called pad abutment bracket.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 09:20 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
The difference is slightly less than 1/4". If you wanted your wheels to stick out that much further, there are other ways to accomplish that without buying new unitbearings.
I meant if you needed to replace the bearings anyway,
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Unread 10-24-2012, 09:27 AM   #26
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I meant if you needed to replace the bearings anyway,
You will need the appropriate rotors, but no reason it won't work.
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Unread 10-24-2012, 09:43 AM   #27
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The posts cast onto the knuckle that the ends of the pads slide on.

More correctly they would be called pad abutment bracket.
Remarkably that's what I call the wings on my wife's sanitary napkins.

Seriously, so we are talking about the same thing, and yes the pads have since moved inbound on the pad abutment brackets.

My point in joining the discussion was based on having the epiphany that I unknowingly bought the wrong rotors and created a fix to make them work. This is a subpar solution, but so far has not caused any ill effects. Mayhaps when I lift my jeep I will add a big brake upgrade and correct it. Till then, be very afraid if you see me in your rearview mirror
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