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Unread 09-08-2009, 10:30 PM   #46
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05RedRME View Post
If I were to get Rokmen arms with jj at each end, how would it ride on the street vs having the jj at only one end?
The JJ's would ride better.

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Unread 09-09-2009, 08:15 AM   #47
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OK, thanks Blaine
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Unread 09-10-2009, 10:25 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by imped4now View Post
Ideally, you want to set your wheelbase so that, when stuffed, the tire is centered in the wheel well. Therefore, the rear needs to be a little forward and the front a little rearward when sitting neutral.
I'd like to learn more about this. Why is that the case, exactly? I mean, isn't that what happens automatically when you add a suspension lift on stock arms, where the wheelbase is sucked in so that it's less than stock? Why wouldn't you simply want to push the wheelbase out to stock? Or beyond stock for that matter?

I've got the Teraflex 3" lift, and I'd always assumed that the reason you go with long arms or otherwise adjustable short arms is to help push out the wheelbase as far as you can practically go in order to have a better highway ride and waterfall tackling ability, etc. But since I really don't know what's going on here, an education would be appreciated
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Unread 09-10-2009, 11:22 PM   #49
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I pushed mine about 1/2" past stock with my adjustable SA...am I in the wrong here?
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Unread 07-23-2010, 03:42 AM   #50
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i would say, as long as you have your drive train angles right..pinion yoke to driveshaft angle, etc..

or before the slip yoke falls out
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Unread 07-23-2010, 06:17 AM   #51
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when the suspension is at compression the arm comes up and therefore gets longer. this pushes the tire to the front of the wheelwell or the opposite for the rear and you will lose up travel
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Unread 07-23-2010, 07:25 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
Ive never heard of anyone bending or breaking a currie. Yeah i would agree that maybe the Rokmens are extra weight, but if you like to overbuild, then having that extra weight that much lower is better than running steel corner armor or steel tube fenders like a lot of people do.
I've bent a Currie lower. I bent it back in a press. Now, it seems to be more prone to bending. I've had to bend it back 2 or 3 more times since the initial bend. I'll probably replace it with something beefier at some point. I've only had a "problem" with the one arm and don't feel a need to go and replace the others - just the problematic one.
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Unread 07-23-2010, 08:41 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekim View Post
I've bent a Currie lower. I bent it back in a press. Now, it seems to be more prone to bending. I've had to bend it back 2 or 3 more times since the initial bend. I'll probably replace it with something beefier at some point. I've only had a "problem" with the one arm and don't feel a need to go and replace the others - just the problematic one.
It's going to fail with the repeated bending. When Gerald gets back, give him a call and explain things to him and he may be able to help.
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Unread 07-23-2010, 08:47 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekim View Post
I've bent a Currie lower. I bent it back in a press. Now, it seems to be more prone to bending. I've had to bend it back 2 or 3 more times since the initial bend. I'll probably replace it with something beefier at some point. I've only had a "problem" with the one arm and don't feel a need to go and replace the others - just the problematic one.
The more times you bend it the weaker it will get. Try it with a paper clip. If you bend it a bunch of times it will break (also heats up-kinda cool). After you bend metal you need to do other manufacturing techniques to help it regain its material properties. I can't remember the term's and i'm not going to go find that book either. In the end when something bends it looses strength.
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