Rokmen Currie AEV OME JKS 3" Build - TheDragonfly - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-02-2010, 09:09 PM   #1
TheDragonfly
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Rokmen Currie AEV OME JKS 3" Build - TheDragonfly

So I kinda started this thread alittle late, because its mostly done..but I thought Id post my results and some problems.

Heres the parts list sofar

AEV 3" Progressive Coils

OME N66L Front Shocks
OME N67 Rear Shocks
Currie front upper control arm
Currie rear upper control arm
Rokmen front lower control arm (johnny joint / clevite rubber)
Rokmen rear lower control arm (johnny joint / clevite rubber)
JKS adjustable bump stops
JKS 1.25 Body Lift
JKS budget motor mount

Old parts already installed that Ill be keeping on:
Rear trac bar bracket (already installed)
Extended rear end links (already installed)
Goodridge extended brake lines front and rear (already installed)
JKS quick disconnects (already installed)
Tcase drop spacers (already installed)
JKS front trac bar (already installed)
Front 3/4" coil spacer (already installed)

I bought everything through the jeepforum classifieds, ebay and craigslist and saved myself alot of money and miraculously able to afford these high quality components

And before anyone calls me out on it, yeah I was planning on doing a SYE CV, along with dreams of tummy tuck and gas tank skid, but I literally ran out of money when I started having to pay rent on my first appartment,

So those perks will have to come later

Stay Tuned for pics

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Unread 08-02-2010, 10:25 PM   #2
MisfitSeven
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sounds like a quality setup. i have the same spring and shock combo on my wish list. if you didnt know already, that combo rides awesome on the street.

i ran a Tcase drop kit along with a TT skid for a year until i put a CV shaft on the rear. ugly yes, but it was a lot better than the stock shovel.
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Unread 08-02-2010, 11:07 PM   #3
breckboarder55
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Sounds like a nice set up.

I will keep my eyes open for it next time I go to visit my parents in The Woodlands.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 04:38 PM   #4
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I installed the Front Lowers myself when I first got them set them dead at 16" from eye to eye.


I swaped the stock bolts for grade 8 zinc plated 9/16, and thru hard washers and nuts, since the threads on the old bolt were thrashed.

The rest of the work I had a shop do since I got very busy with summer classes and this is my daily driver and needed things done quickly, otherwise Id be here working on it taking my time with a case of cold ones.

The body lift and motor mount went in okay. I dont mind the gap that much. However even with the bracket that JKS provided installed, because of the 1" tcase drop, the tcase isnt shifting into 4-hi, but it will shift into 4-lo. It looks like the bracket is binding. Looks like I might have to install the Skyjacker bracket to get the bracket off the body.








For the front bumpstops I used the jks 2" spacer to match the OME long travel shocks, and to keep the trac bar / diff cover interference at bay until something new comes out. And for the rear bumpstops I used the 1.25" spacer with the shorter OME shocks. It worked out nicely, that you only need one "pair " of jks bumpstops to accomplish this front and rear, and still have an extra .5" spacer and bolts, just in case.

Well, it looks like the shop drilled or threaded the front drivers side bumpstop hole crooked. Probably .25" higher on the left side, visibly crooked. Is this easily fixable, or should I just leave it?


Also the rear rubber jounce bumper up in the cup, ripped apart. I cant seem to find a replacement, are the front and rear interchangable?






Now the front currie control arms, I said to install at 14.75" like Mudb8 suggested In another thread. The shop installed them at 15.125". When I asked about this they said they put it on the alignment rack for free and set them to spec. But didnt actually tell me what the caster was they set them at. This is also putting them at 1" of thread after the jam nut, which according to currie, is not advisable.

Whats the correct way to get the caster with angle finder? Top of balljoint? By lengthening the uppers, theyve decreased the positive caster?

So I also said try getting the rear pinion setup with only a 1/2" of tcase drop first. They said they did and test drove it, and even though the pinion was set up correctly, it had really bad vibes. I was In class so I dont know If they actually took the time to do it or not. I was being optimistic that it would work.




The rear lowers are in at 15.75" and the rear uppers are in at 13.25"

You can probably tell how thick the Rokmens are compared to the currie uppers. Also the Rokmens have flat textured powder coat and the curries have a smooth semi-gloss powdercoat.



output shaft is at 10 degrees
pinion angle is at 14 degrees
driveshaft angle is at 14 degrees

4 degree difference from parallel, is this acceptable? I dont notice any vibes though.

The front tracbar they didnt adjust, or check clearance at full bump.




And The front drivers side metal bumpstop cup is touching the front inside of the coil at ride height, but not on the passenger side.



I suspect its the length of the trac bar causing this correct? Would the front uppers affect this too?


All that aside, WOW this thing drives so smooth.
I think the most drastic difference in ride is at the slower speeds. Before, when id hit a speedbump Id be knock cans out of the cupholder and now it just glides over it like butter. But I did see some difference on the highway when I change lanes I can barely feel the lane bumps. Before, It would shake and sound like a washing machine full of quarters.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 04:54 PM   #5
MisfitSeven
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDragonfly View Post
you need to tighten that jamb nut on your upper, and keep the control arm level... meaning the joints are c0ckeyed, straighten them out. the gold joint on your lower is c0ckeyed too.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 05:33 PM   #6
TheDragonfly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
you need to tighten that jamb nut on your upper, and keep the control arm level... meaning the joints are c0ckeyed, straighten them out. the gold joint on your lower is c0ckeyed too.
WHOA didnt notice the jam nuts werent tightened on the uppers. Also how does one straighten out the joints?

I know that when I installed the front lowers, the bushing was centered in its housing, and I tightened the two bolts, then tightened the jam nut last. And that kept everything centered. How do you get the bushing back to center now that its ****eyed?

Last edited by TheDragonfly; 08-04-2010 at 05:46 PM..
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Unread 08-04-2010, 05:50 PM   #7
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Who did the install? WPS? Texas Truck Works? (I bet it was these guys, I have had a few friends have talked about having issues with them.)

Next time post up if you need help installing, I'm sure there are a couple local members that would be willing to help. Than you learn, and save a little money.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 05:59 PM   #8
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hold a screwdriver in place to keep the joints straight. then tighten.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 06:17 PM   #9
TheDragonfly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55 View Post
Who did the install? WPS? Texas Truck Works? (I bet it was these guys, I have had a few friends have talked about having issues with them.)

Next time post up if you need help installing, I'm sure there are a couple local members that would be willing to help. Than you learn, and save a little money.
Yeah It was Texas Truck Works. I live 5 mins from there. I was going to do it myself with friends but we just got caught up with summer classes. And my dad offered to pay the shop time. I need it set up right before school starts and Ill have no time to mess with it then for sure. Im going to go back to TTW this weekend and tell them to get it right this time.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 06:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
hold a screwdriver in place to keep the joints straight. then tighten.
Your saying wedge a screwdriver between the side of the JJ housing thats touching the mount, and then tightening the thru bolts, will keep the housing straight in the mount? Does this also recenter the jj ball inside the housing, or how can they do that? The front drivers side bushing ball looks like its flexed to its max.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 06:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDragonfly View Post
Yeah It was Texas Truck Works. I live 5 mins from there. I was going to do it myself with friends but we just got caught up with summer classes. And my dad offered to pay the shop time. I need it set up right before school starts and Ill have no time to mess with it then for sure. Im going to go back to TTW this weekend and tell them to get it right this time.
Good luck with that. I went in one time to see if they could order parts from them.

The good ol' boys they had working on this diesel truck took it for a "test drive". I watched them peel-out leaving the shop, followed by a loud crack, a puff of smoke and the engine dieing.

It started and they repeated this process twice more. Walking back to the shop he spoke with I was assuming to be the owner of the shop saying "I'd stomp on it and it don't do anything but Crack, go flat, and die", "now it aint runnin right". (this was about two years ago)

I believe they were detonating the hell out of this truck. I walked out after that. So between that, and things I have heard from another place of business that has fixed a few of their mistakes... My opinion is low.

I hope it works out for you, but if not I would give WPS a call. They have a great reputation and the owners are very helpful/friendly.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 06:54 PM   #12
TheDragonfly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55 View Post
Good luck with that. I went in one time to see if they could order parts from them.

The good ol' boys they had working on this diesel truck took it for a "test drive". I watched them peel-out leaving the shop, followed by a loud crack, a puff of smoke and the engine dieing.

It started and they repeated this process twice more. Walking back to the shop he spoke with I was assuming to be the owner of the shop saying "I'd stomp on it and it don't do anything but Crack, go flat, and die", "now it aint runnin right". (this was about two years ago)

I believe they were detonating the hell out of this truck. I walked out after that. So between that, and things I have heard from another place of business that has fixed a few of their mistakes... My opinion is low.

I hope it works out for you, but if not I would give WPS a call. They have a great reputation and the owners are very helpful/friendly.
Ive never heard of WPS. Woodlands Performance Suspension? Ill try seeing them next time.

I think the problem with TTW is that there too, I cant think of the right word, commercialized? All I ever hear comming from there mouth is skyjacker, rough country, and rubicon express are the bees knees. Never hear them recomending currie, aev, or ome. Theyd never even heard of Rokmen or Undercover Fab Works.
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Unread 08-04-2010, 07:00 PM   #13
breckboarder55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDragonfly View Post
Ive never heard of WPS. Woodlands Performance Suspension? Ill try seeing them next time.

I think the problem with TTW is that there too, I cant think of the right word, commercialized? All I ever hear comming from there mouth is skyjacker, rough country, and rubicon express are the bees knees. Never hear them recomending currie, aev, or ome. Theyd never even heard of Rokmen or Undercover Fab Works.
Well, if you look at the majority of their customer-base its mostly composed of rich, young, Woodlands residents that are lifting a truck for aesthetic purposes... Not for off-roading purposes.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 02:54 PM   #14
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Well I reread the jks instructions regarding the bracket. Turns out there's two holes mine was installed in the lower position but it should be in the upper position with mml and tcase drop. Looks like I might not need the skyjacker bracket.

Anyone have any comments about the control arm length up front in regards to caster. Or how the cup is touching the spring. the axle seems to be centered when measuring tire to frame.

I read in another thread that the stock isolator need to be on bottom. Prvious install put them on the bottom. Do the stock ones have a groOve where that pigtail fits? It looks like maybe that's causing it to Seat differently. The oter side pigtail is towards the frame too.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 03:04 PM   #15
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nice work, lookin' good.

for caster, my arms are set at 15" uppers (stock), and 16-1/8" lower (Rokmen). it gets me to 6 degrees caster. i'm going to try to get closer to 7 degrees with the HP D30 by pushing the lowers out to 16.25".
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