I installed the Front Lowers myself when I first got them set them dead at 16" from eye to eye.
I swaped the stock bolts for grade 8 zinc plated 9/16, and thru hard washers and nuts, since the threads on the old bolt were thrashed.
The rest of the work I had a shop do since I got very busy with summer classes and this is my daily driver and needed things done quickly, otherwise Id be here working on it taking my time with a case of cold ones.
The body lift and motor mount went in okay. I dont mind the gap that much. However even with the bracket that JKS provided installed, because of the 1" tcase drop, the tcase isnt shifting into 4-hi, but it will shift into 4-lo. It looks like the bracket is binding. Looks like I might have to install the Skyjacker bracket to get the bracket off the body.
For the front bumpstops I used the jks 2" spacer to match the OME long travel shocks, and to keep the trac bar / diff cover interference at bay until something new comes out. And for the rear bumpstops I used the 1.25" spacer with the shorter OME shocks. It worked out nicely, that you only need one "pair " of jks bumpstops to accomplish this front and rear, and still have an extra .5" spacer and bolts, just in case.
Well, it looks like the shop drilled or threaded the front drivers side bumpstop hole crooked. Probably .25" higher on the left side, visibly crooked. Is this easily fixable, or should I just leave it?
Also the rear rubber jounce bumper up in the cup, ripped apart. I cant seem to find a replacement, are the front and rear interchangable?
Now the front currie control arms, I said to install at 14.75" like Mudb8 suggested In another thread. The shop installed them at 15.125". When I asked about this they said they put it on the alignment rack for free and set them to spec. But didnt actually tell me what the caster was they set them at. This is also putting them at 1" of thread after the jam nut, which according to currie, is not advisable.
Whats the correct way to get the caster with angle finder? Top of balljoint? By lengthening the uppers, theyve decreased the positive caster?
So I also said try getting the rear pinion setup with only a 1/2" of tcase drop first. They said they did and test drove it, and even though the pinion was set up correctly, it had really bad vibes. I was In class so I dont know If they actually took the time to do it or not. I was being optimistic that it would work.
The rear lowers are in at 15.75" and the rear uppers are in at 13.25"
You can probably tell how thick the Rokmens are compared to the currie uppers. Also the Rokmens have flat textured powder coat and the curries have a smooth semi-gloss powdercoat.
output shaft is at 10 degrees
pinion angle is at 14 degrees
driveshaft angle is at 14 degrees
4 degree difference from parallel, is this acceptable? I dont notice any vibes though.
The front tracbar they didnt adjust, or check clearance at full bump.
And The front drivers side metal bumpstop cup is touching the front inside of the coil at ride height, but not on the passenger side.
I suspect its the length of the trac bar causing this correct? Would the front uppers affect this too?
All that aside, WOW this thing drives so smooth.
I think the most drastic difference in ride is at the slower speeds. Before, when id hit a speedbump Id be knock cans out of the cupholder and now it just glides over it like butter. But I did see some difference on the highway when I change lanes I can barely feel the lane bumps. Before, It would shake and sound like a washing machine full of quarters.