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Rock Krawler Front Track bar

6K views 57 replies 16 participants last post by  Trevlaw 
#1 ·
Ok I just started on the install of the Rock Krawler RK05194 Bomb Proof Front Adjustable Track Bar 2" - 3" Lift.

Looks like I have to drill out the frame mount where the ball joint used to be with the old track bar. Also will need to drill out the holes where the track bar mounts on the axle side.

Does anyone else have this track bar and did you have to do the same thing?
Support from the manufacturer is pretty much non-exhistant.

And I know that this isn't the best track bar I could have ordered but it's what I can afford right now.

Any help is much appreciated.
 
#2 ·
You have to drill out both mounts with most aftermarket track bars. Just buy a good drill bit and make sure you get a straight hole.

Rock Krawler instructions:

Drill out the lower track bar mounting hole at the axle to 9/16 and the frame side track bar mounting hole to 5/8
 
#3 ·
Are you familiar with the problem of track bar interference with the front diff cover? I don't recall RK being among the few track bars with the correct bends to not require unnecessary amounts of bump stop extension.

Be sure to cycle the suspension without the coils in place so that you know what is actually going on underneath. Do not assume the kit is correct.
 
#4 ·
It's not that big a deal to drill out. Just make sure you have a good drill preferably with the side handle. Use cutting fluid. Those bits aren't cheap. FWIW, I do not recommend the trackbars that drill out the frame to 5/8. Some of the lower taper remains, and it will wallow out overtime. Some that drill out a size smaller include the cone adapter to take care of that.
 
#5 ·
... FWIW, I do not recommend the trackbars that drill out the frame to 5/8. Some of the lower taper remains, and it will wallow out overtime. Some that drill out a size smaller include the cone adapter to take care of that.
Why would the hole wallow out over time if the bolt was properly torqued to provide the necessary clamping force?
 
#9 ·
You can agree to disagree all you like but that doesn't change reality. Reality is that the hole size and shape within reason has exactly zero to do with whether or not it will wallow out and that small bit of taper is very much within reason. The ONLY reason you have issues with the hole wallowing is you don't know how to tighten a bolt correctly and it doesn't get any more simple than that.

If you struggle with that concept in the least, just do a simple test to prove it. Go loosen the bolt on your trackbar at either end and snug it back down to just a hair bit more than finger tight and see how long it takes to completely ruin the hole. And yes, you are regurgitating what is on the internet because you are not alone in the group of folks that doesn't understand how bolts work. You and your ilk believe that hole size and shape matters and within reason, it simply does not.

If it did, your front lower control arms would never stay tight.
 
#18 ·
One thing that can be gotten wrong is the top side washer for that frame side mount. There is a recess in the mount and you need a washer that sits down into the recess to get it properly torqued. You can put your torque wrench on it and get it to click but if your washer is not sitting down in that recess you don't have good surface to surface contact on that top side to create the right clamping force.
 
#38 ·
this thread took an amazing turn and we arent even talking about the design of the rock krawler TB and if it will bash into the diff cover, like most aftermarket TB's do.

sorry you have had issues in the past CrawlOHolic. it has been shown time and time again, that if the bolts are torqued down to the proper amount (150-175 ft lbs on the frame side and 120 ft lbs on the axle side) the holes will not wallow out as the clamping force is too great to allow movement.

has anyone ever installed the RK track bar and given pictures with the suspension cycled?
 
#40 ·
Hey, I'm a beginner here and want to make sure I understand what's going on. I have a RE adjustable front track bar. I just installed adjustable control arms and are about to start work on setting up the front. I'm prepared to buy a new front track bar if there is interference. I will probably go with a Metalcloak to match my rear.

I followed the torque spec when installing the RE. It did have washer and at 150lbs of torque the washer did form to the hole some. Both sides are torque properly. If the Metalcloak doesn't have a washer with its track bar. Should I get one or should I just use what comes with it in the packaging and instructions.

I know that damaged holes and bolts not probably torqued can reek havoc on a jeep.

Also on a side note, I'm replacing the stock axle side upper control arm bolt. The stock ones are a pain and with the thicker metal of my upper control arm, they are a little short also. Should I put any kind of washer on that or install it as it is now. With just a bolt and nut. Should I use a nylon lock nut????

Thanks.


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#45 ·
Hey, I'm a beginner here and want to make sure I understand what's going on. I have a RE adjustable front track bar. I just installed adjustable control arms and are about to start work on setting up the front. I'm prepared to buy a new front track bar if there is interference. I will probably go with a Metalcloak to match my rear.

I followed the torque spec when installing the RE. It did have washer and at 150lbs of torque the washer did form to the hole some. Both sides are torque properly. If the Metalcloak doesn't have a washer with its track bar. Should I get one or should I just use what comes with it in the packaging and instructions.

I know that damaged holes and bolts not probably torqued can reek havoc on a jeep.

Also on a side note, I'm replacing the stock axle side upper control arm bolt. The stock ones are a pain and with the thicker metal of my upper control arm, they are a little short also. Should I put any kind of washer on that or install it as it is now. With just a bolt and nut. Should I use a nylon lock nut????

Thanks.

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On your RE track bar, did the washer fit inside the hole, or over it? by your description, it sounds like it went over the hole, which is wrong.

As for the Metalcloak track bar, it seems like they have gone through a few design changes. I think the original didn't have the high misalignment spacers, a later one had the spacers and the washer (what I have), then a more recent one didn't have the washer. The washer is not needed if the fastener itself fits inside the hole (but should still have enough "meat" on it to provide enough clamping area).

For your control arm bolts, the stock CAs didn't have washers, but some aftermarket CAs come with washers (i.e. Currie/Savvy, but I think that's due to you greasing them through the bolt). Don't use nylon lock nuts, they have less thread engagement, and they're not needed as long as you tighten them sufficiently.
 
#42 ·
CrawlOHolic said:
Blaine, I appreciate your help, no doubt. But by the logic, for flipping a tie rod, we shouldn't need an adapter. Just straight drill it to pass through, throw on some washers, and hit the torque spec. Not saying anyone is wrong here. Just that it may not be a blanket statement applicable to every situation.
A tie rod that uses a tapered pin and hole doesn't stay secured the same way a rod end with a through bolt and nut do. The tie rod is held in place by the press fit of the pin in the tapered hole, so the hole size and shape in this case is important. It's the reason you have to put a tapered adapter back in through the top once you drill the original taper out.
 
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