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Ripp Supercharger

9K views 62 replies 17 participants last post by  Surfnuutt 
#1 ·
Just looking to see if anyone has one and could answer a few questions.
1) How is performance on normal driving
2)How is performance at Highway speeds trying to pass
3) Any gain in fuel mileage.
Thanks
 
#8 ·
#14 ·
One of the guys from Ripp use to frequent the forum a lot. There is a pretty good thread on their products too. Give them a shout sometime, they were really friendly to talk to when I was at a local Jeep show last year.
The guy that used to post to JF no longer works there ... found that out a few months back. But like you said, the RippMods guys are great to talk to (I'm lucky since they're local) but I've seen Ross talk to (potential) customers at great length on the phone. Just check out their site and give them a call.
 
#24 ·
Thanks for the info. It is my daughters jeep, 2006 Rubicon Unlimited. The truck has power out of the hole just lacking after that, not great at merging into traffic either. Other then that she love's the truck so may as well address the issue, still cheaper then buying something else:laugh:
 
#26 ·
On that note, this thing has not helped my wilder side with highway merges ... you can literally blast your way from the on ramp to the fast lane and watch everyone get small in your rearview. And as far as passing, I don't even need to downshift, a quick push on the throttle and no sooner does the bypass whistle go away the engine springs to life and you just take off past whoever was in the way. The hard part is going slow again.
 
#28 ·
Yes. I had to have it replaced though, it turned out my controller was never activating. They put a fresh one in there last December. I wish I could figure out a way to put a temp sensor in there to tell how much of an effect it has on air cooling.
 
#30 ·
Mostly it lets me run the cheaper gas without knock under boost. When they had it hooked to the dyno, you could definitely see it kicking in and dropping the air temperature (I didn't get a copy of that test).

It actually doesn't use the fluid that fast at all. In their instruction manual, it says you could go through a washer tank as fast as three months. I've only refilled mine once since last May.
 
#37 ·
Also in your reference article on methanol, yes it can be a very seroius problem if you have tuned with it for power, and it runs out. Since you claim you tune you should be aware that any good tuner sets the AFR up to at least 12.5 on boosted applications before ever using the meth spray. The meth is there to cool the charge and add additional octaine for additional safety, and to prevent the loss of power from high IAT's.
 
#45 ·
Wait wait wait, I was staying out of this for the most part, but I have to clarify. You aren't really suggesting anybody put that size turbo or something even close to that size on a 4.0L, are you?
 
#46 ·
well if you want a turbo for rock crawling at low rpms with "instant" boost you don't really have much of a choice do you? For a jeep i would say that a PB blower (either roots or TS) is a better option, but turbos are bad *** for sure! I could never justify putting a centri blower on a jeep. Well, maybe if it was free.
 
#51 ·
wow this thread went downhill fast.

personally, I liked the centri blower stuff I saw from RIPP. It looks like they complimented the 4.0L's already broad torque band pretty well. It doesn't have 300 ft-lbs off idle, but you wouldn't want that...especially in rock crawling & general trail riding. You'd be breaking stuff left and right, and you'd spin tires way to much. I'd much rather have 175-200+ ft-lbs at the wheels at 1000rpms, with a nice smooth increase to 300-320 ft-lbs plateau between 3200-3700rpm.

the roots blowers make a lot of heat and need some way to cool the intake air, especially on a Jeep which already has high underhood temps. air-to-water intercooler, whatever, but I'd like to see under 120-140*F IAT in rock crawling and highway driving alike, regardless of ambient temps.

twin screws a pretty nice and offer slightly lower intake temps with increased efficiency over roots, but there aren't many kits that actually work for roots or twin screw on a 4.0L. Kenne Bell no longer sells their 4.0L kit, and Avenger does nothing for tuning, adding another $1000 to the cost for Unichip or FTC-1 with tune.

turbo's do pretty nice, and can be sized for a nice flat torque curve, but with the size turbo you use they end up choking around 4500-5200rpms (depending on altitude among other things) - see the "scrapinrocks" YJ turbo thread on here. his torque curve is very nice...but he's got distributor, OBDI with a FMU, which is easier to tune than a coilpack OBDII TJs.

and no matter which boosted way you go, you're still stuck with a weak cam. Now I suspect you could easily see 260 ft-lbs at the wheels with either boosted setup and a good cam from Comp Cams, Crane or Hesco. Still running 91/93 octane.
 
#56 ·
wow this thread went downhill fast.

personally, I liked the centri blower stuff I saw from RIPP. It looks like they complimented the 4.0L's already broad torque band pretty well. It doesn't have 300 ft-lbs off idle, but you wouldn't want that...especially in rock crawling & general trail riding. You'd be breaking stuff left and right, and you'd spin tires way to much. I'd much rather have 175-200+ ft-lbs at the wheels at 1000rpms, with a nice smooth increase to 300-320 ft-lbs plateau between 3200-3700rpm.
This is exactly my point, the Rubicon with the 4:10's and 31" tires isn't suffering down low, it is on the highway and acceleration that lack, this is where the centrifugal will shine in that truck.

the roots blowers make a lot of heat and need some way to cool the intake air, especially on a Jeep which already has high underhood temps. air-to-water intercooler, whatever, but I'd like to see under 120-140*F IAT in rock crawling and highway driving alike, regardless of ambient temps.

twin screws a pretty nice and offer slightly lower intake temps with increased efficiency over roots, but there aren't many kits that actually work for roots or twin screw on a 4.0L. Kenne Bell no longer sells their 4.0L kit, and Avenger does nothing for tuning, adding another $1000 to the cost for Unichip or FTC-1 with tune.
Twin screws actually generate more heat for IAT's especially since there mounted on the engine.

turbo's do pretty nice, and can be sized for a nice flat torque curve, but with the size turbo you use they end up choking around 4500-5200rpms (depending on altitude among other things) - see the "scrapinrocks" YJ turbo thread on here. his torque curve is very nice...but he's got distributor, OBDI with a FMU, which is easier to tune than a coilpack OBDII TJs.

and no matter which boosted way you go, you're still stuck with a weak cam. Now I suspect you could easily see 260 ft-lbs at the wheels with either boosted setup and a good cam from Comp Cams, Crane or Hesco. Still running 91/93 octane.
If you look at Ripp I think they have a Dyno that showed around 260rwhp with out a cam, just from the bolt on system
 
#53 ·
jgrom--the turbo you posted the picture of would choke the piss out of a 4.0L killing any power any near the top end, cause super high exhaust temps, and make the motor knock it's *** off. I'm not saying you couldn't put a smaller turbo on a jeep I6 and make good low end power. I certainly think you can. That turbo, however, has WAY to small of an exhaust wheel. You would actually almost certainly boost creep the **** out of that turbo unless you added some kind of LARGE external wastegate.

Everybody keeps talking about a power adder needing to make more power down low because it's a jeep. I don't know about most of you, but I don't really have any issues with power off road excpet when I'm playing in mud or sand, and then I won't be below 2500rpm anyways in all likelyhood. To me a power adder on a jeep is going to help me go down the highway better and put a hurtin' on the ricers, but the later of those doesn't really matter.
 
#59 ·
jgrom--the turbo you posted the picture of would choke the piss out of a 4.0L killing any power any near the top end, cause super high exhaust temps, and make the motor knock it's *** off.
LOL. That was a joke in response to building boost down low. It does make serious power, but it uses two of those tiny suckers.
The foundation of the new 2010 Taurus SHO is a 3.5-liter twin-turbocharged EcoBoost V-6 engine. This advanced powerplant generates an estimated 365 horsepower at 5,500 rpm and 350 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3,500 rpm, resulting in significantly improved power, torque and fuel economy compared with larger, normally aspirated engines.
 
#55 ·
That's just a tuning problem i.e. the factory tune sucks. If you make more power because the motor is now getting more air, you have to add fuel to match it.

IF YOU MAKE MORE POWER, YOU USE MORE GAS. If you didn't, you would be running too lean and pop your motor. If you didn't have enough power to push your barn door down the road in 5th gear WOT up a hill before, making more power (which will require more fuel) will eat more gas. People report no changes in fuel milage (which is believable) because the 4-5 times you have to down shift during a drive don't effect things that much. My mileage didn't change with my stroker unless I compare the 4.0L when I spent most of the tank beating on it compared to the stroker when I spent most of the tank beating on it.
 
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