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Unread 09-13-2004, 06:18 PM   #1
nekeno12
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Replacing sway bar link and bushing

Hey there,

The bushing for my sway bar link has been crushed, probably from 4wheelin, but I need to replace it. I found a new link and bushing from JCWhitney and I want to replace it myself.

Has anyone done this type of work before? Is there anything I should be aware of when replacing this part. It looks like all I'll need is a 5/8 torque wrench and to take the tire off. Is there anything I'm missing though?

Thanks!

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Unread 09-13-2004, 06:46 PM   #2
nekeno12
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For example, if I take off the sway bar link, is something going to come crashing down because I haven't supported it?
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Unread 09-13-2004, 06:56 PM   #3
Stormtrooper
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Nope, nothings going to fall on you. You shouldn't have to take the tire off, but i might make the job easier. You'll need a torx bit (cant remember size but its a big one) and a standard socket set to get it off. Once you've removed the lower bolts the entire sway bar will freely rotate down. This will make the upper nuts more accessable. Once you've taken them off the links should come off. But they didn't for me. I had to whack on the end of the threaded stud (i kept the nut threaded on a few turns to protect the threads) to get it to separate. Never messed with the bushings themselves, so you'll have to figure that one out on your own. All I did was remove them.

Steve
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Unread 09-13-2004, 07:03 PM   #4
nekeno12
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I'm sure the link comes with the bushing installed. Thanks for the help!
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Unread 09-13-2004, 07:40 PM   #5
anthrUTtj
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The upper end of the sway bar links are press fits. Easiest way to get them out is remove the swaybar, lay it on the ground supported by a piece of wood. One good whack should do it.

You can find surplus JKS quick discos all over the for sale boards. I'd put those on instead.
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Unread 09-14-2004, 08:18 AM   #6
ncb76
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There is a good chance that the links(s) will break again. If you are going to be doing any offroading I'd seriously consider upgrading. Tera or JKS both make good disco's.

Oh, and you'll need a T55 for the link.
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Unread 09-14-2004, 08:40 AM   #7
wayoflife
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Click Here to See My JKS Installation Write-Up

has everything you need
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Unread 09-14-2004, 09:18 AM   #8
brgmgb
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I replaced my swaybar link back in June. I purchased the replacement link at my local NAPA store.

The bottom bolt is a T-55 torx and the nut is 18 mm. I needed a deep socket. The nut was torqued down pretty tight. (Haynes manual says 70 ft/lbs). It would have been easier to remove the tire, but I worked around the bumper.

On mine, the ball had separated from the rest of the link, so that was it for removing the link. I tried pounding the ball out, but only messed up the nut and threads. I finally resorted to a ball joint puller, which popped the ball out in about 30 seconds.

Installation was very easy because I had removed the tire to pop the ball. I followed the Haynes manual specs - 40 ft/lbs on ball and 70 on bottom.


There was a thread on making homemade quick disconnects using a 7/16 pin. I am still curious why the manual says to torque the bottom when the disconnects are relatively loose.


Hope this helps.
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Unread 01-11-2009, 02:56 PM   #9
Ron Burgundy
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03 rubicon. my cousins.
stock sway bar links.
i heard a snap, got out, inspected it. when someone steps on the front bumper, I can see the one sway bar link move down - OUT of the sway bar. so it's either broken at the top. or the nut, up at the top bushing, gave. I never go off roading strange.

anyhow, can I just use someone's factory sway bar link, and replace it? someone who upgraded to a taller suspension. does it have to be a rubicon - are the rubi links longer?

and will it be overly difficult to remove? or just common tools.
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Unread 01-12-2009, 08:38 AM   #10
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rubi swaybar links, same as regular tj?
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Unread 01-11-2010, 04:10 PM   #11
CJmadison
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Thanks for the info!! I was driving home today and the balls let go from the link... I had them out and installed in under 15 minutes. The ball joint puller was key. I just rotated the sway bar down and they popped free with a little motivation from the puller.
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Unread 01-11-2010, 04:17 PM   #12
Hesher420
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A pickle fork is helpful to remove the top of the sway bar link. Helpful, but not necessary. A hammer works good also.
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Unread 01-11-2010, 07:59 PM   #13
jeepgunner12
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I have MOOGS on my jeep. While they arent quick discos and i need to carry a tool kit to get them off, they are garentted never to break even after im in a box and somebody else owns my jeep. The best bang for your buck as far as im concerned. Any advance auto store should have it in stock.
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Unread 01-30-2010, 04:23 PM   #14
I'm Limited
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Note to others: The Factory Screw does not always match the NEw Links. Save yourself one Trip and make sure you get NEW Nuts for the Links Prior to starting.

Also Upgraded the Bushings !!!!....yeh, GO ME !

not so bad....4 hours...only b/c I got the old bolt stuck on a new link...before I realized I needed a new bolt for the Link and had to pull it all off again...GRRR...Otherwise...it would have been less than 2.5 hours.

:kicking self: I know better, I know better....NOW...I Know Better !
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Unread 02-16-2010, 02:22 PM   #15
Luck881
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Need to bump;
I just replaced my factory links, but the top stud keeps rotating in the socket so I can't torque it. What is the best method to hold the stud still without damaging the boot around the joint? I'm sure it's simple but I can't see the answer. Thanks,
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