Replacing rear brake hardware n shoes, do i have to replace the drums? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 21 Old 09-25-2005, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
chaznad
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Replacing rear brake hardware n shoes, do i have to replace the drums?

i really need wheel cylinders too,,, can i just sand the drums down


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post #2 of 21 Old 09-25-2005, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaznad
i really need wheel cylinders too,,, can i just sand the drums down
Do they have ridges cut into them? If they do not, I would just lightly sand the surface, but if they are scarred up pretty bad you might want to replace them.

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post #3 of 21 Old 09-25-2005, 09:09 PM
dwilliams35
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They're a little tougher than "sanding": think about what they do for a living. Take them to any decent auto-parts store: they'll have a brake lathe in the back; they can tell you if they can be turned down past the ridges and still be within spec.
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post #4 of 21 Old 09-25-2005, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
chaznad
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cool as far as wheel cylinders go ,, is that an easy install ( pop off and on) or is it more in depth,,,, any write ups

i dont want to risk popping them off and graining the brake fluid

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post #5 of 21 Old 09-25-2005, 09:24 PM
dwilliams35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaznad
cool as far as wheel cylinders go ,, is that an easy install ( pop off and on) or is it more in depth,,,, any write ups

i dont want to risk popping them off and graining the brake fluid
Well, if it they need changed, they need changed: you are going to have to "open the system" one way or another. Not that big a deal: you're going to be bleeding the heck out of them anyway, so just be vaguely careful, hit the works with some air pretty well beforehand, (wear a mask: that dust isn't just terribly conducive to good health) and flush the whole thing off with brake cleaner.
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post #6 of 21 Old 09-25-2005, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
chaznad
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alrighty ,, someones gonna have to cough up the rear brake install write up, i checked both stu and 4x4xplor siites & dont have the rear , only the front

this seems like a step by step procedure that i dont want to wing on my own,,,i was gonna do the hardware, cylinders and shoes all at onces

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post #7 of 21 Old 09-25-2005, 11:14 PM
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The best advice anyone can give you is to do one side at a time. That way you will have a real-life diagram of how to put everything together. It's a pretty easy/straight-forward procedure. Your best bet if you're concerned about being a little confused about he procedure is to cough up $12.00 and buy a Haynes or Chilton manual. It will show you exactly how to the job at hand, plus from here forward you will have it for future projects. It's not as good as a fsm, but about a fifth of the price and will get you through most of the basic jobs of maintaning your jeep. Troy.

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post #8 of 21 Old 09-26-2005, 06:39 AM
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As others have mentioned it's not that difficult, I just did mine. First for the Jeep but I've done several other vehicles before. A couple of things you need to remember

1. Do one side at a time. They are identical so you can check back and forth to make sure all the pieces are there.

2. Get the tools, you need three specialized tools. Someone's gonna make fun of me for not knowing the "official names" the first is a brake spoon to back off the adjuster, two spring tools are also required. One for the return springs and one for the springs that hold the shoes on the backing plate. I got all of them at the Auto Supply I got the brakes from.

3. Get the hardware kit, for $10 it's a lot easier than trying to use rusty parts. Plus you don't have to worry about breaking things.

4. Get the drums turned, as someone else said the drums do an important job. I didn't as mine weren't gouged, I had a small problem getting them back on from the rust ring. If I took them offer again I would have them lightly turned.

Sorry, no write up. It's fairly straight forward. The only problems I had last weekend were getting the drums off, loosening the adjuster and persuading the drum with a hammer worked fine. It seemed like it took the passenger side a while to adjust itself back out. Once it did though it's fine now.
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post #9 of 21 Old 09-26-2005, 06:48 AM
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You really only need the tool that removes the springs from the backing plate. You can use needlnose pliers to get the springs on and off. I used to do it all the time.

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post #10 of 21 Old 09-26-2005, 07:25 AM
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Just did mine last week without any special tools. A bit frustrating, but doable. Definitely do them one at a time so you can jump back and forth to see how things are supposed to go. Took about 90 minutes total. Good luck, if you're not done already.

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post #11 of 21 Old 09-26-2005, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockRunner85
You really only need the tool that removes the springs from the backing plate. You can use needlnose pliers to get the springs on and off. I used to do it all the time.

A note of caution. Do not ever use needle nose pliers to install brake springs. Invest in spring pliers or use vice grips.

I do business with a shop and one of the guys there is missing an eye. Took me a couple of years of doing business there to finally ask how it happened. He was replaceing brake springs and when the pliers slipped, the point slammed into his right eye rendering it blind.

I guess you could use needle nose, just be aware which direction they will go when they slip, because they will.

Besides, the brake spring pliers are cheap and make it so much easier.
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post #12 of 21 Old 09-26-2005, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine
A note of caution. Do not ever use needle nose pliers to install brake springs. Invest in spring pliers or use vice grips.

I do business with a shop and one of the guys there is missing an eye. Took me a couple of years of doing business there to finally ask how it happened. He was replaceing brake springs and when the pliers slipped, the point slammed into his right eye rendering it blind.

I guess you could use needle nose, just be aware which direction they will go when they slip, because they will.

Besides, the brake spring pliers are cheap and make it so much easier.
Good advice. When I've done the drums in the past the springs normally go horizontal. I just clip the one side on, grab the pliers tight (i've used needle nose and regular pliers) and then clip it in on the other side. I figure if it slipped it would go flying towards the other side of the Jeep. I'm not also eye level.

But yeah investing in the brake pliers is probably a good idea.

2004 Black Rubicon w/ 5 spd

RE 3.5 SuperFlex & Front Trackbar / JKS 1.25" BL & MML / 35x12.5 MTRs on 15x8 AR-23s / Currie Anti-Rock / Jeeperman Bumpers / Rokmen Sliders / York OBA / Harbor Freight 8k Winch
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post #13 of 21 Old 09-26-2005, 07:52 AM
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Instead of using compressed air to blow the brake dust away, use a can of brake cleaner. It will keep you cleaner and your not going to run the risk of inhaling the brake dust. If you are replacing the rear cylinders, get a big bottle of brake fluid (32oz). Use it to flush the brake lines out of the old fluid. Use some clear tubing over the brake bleeder so you can see the fluid and air coming out. Keep bleeding the brakes until you notice the cleaner fluid. It helps to run the clear tubing up above the bleeder screw. Do not re-use the old fluid or an open bottle of brake fluid that has been sitting around. Brake fluid attracks moisture.
You want to get the rear drums turned to prevent brake pulsing, and to get a good clean surface for the new shoes($12).

Bill
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post #14 of 21 Old 06-20-2007, 08:16 AM
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I've been feeling some brake pulsing lately. But I can't tell if it's the front or rear. I have new front rotors but I do not feel the pulse in the steering wheels. It's a "seat of the pants" and pedal feel. I'm going ot tackle my brakes this Saturday. I hope the rear dums are fine and it is just the rotors. Or should I just pony yp the money for some drums or drum turning?

Matt
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post #15 of 21 Old 06-20-2007, 08:42 AM
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Also, if I were to take my drums off to check them, how can I check to see if they need turned?

Matt
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