Replacing RC X-flex joints with Johnny Joints or Duroflex - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 79 Old 04-11-2016, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
gittypops
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Replacing RC X-flex joints with Johnny Joints or Duroflex

I am going to rebuilding my Rough Country X-flex control arms on my 1998 TJ. This is my daily driver and taken off road around every other weekend during the summer. I would like to replace the X-flex bushings with Johnny Joints or Duroflex bushings. Is this a good idea? Is this even possible? Has anyone done it? If the joint size isn't the same are the shank threads the same to replace the whole head? Suggestions (other than replacing the complete arms)? Reccomendations (other than replacing the complete arms)? Thanks

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post #2 of 79 Old 04-11-2016, 11:06 PM
emcee5000
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Check ballistic fabrication. I recently used their 2.0 joints for the rear upper control arms on a used set of rubicon express to replace the rubber bushings. Cut, reweld and then used a sleeve to maintain factory bolt. I then purchased the 2.63 joints for the axle side of the rear set of skyjacker control arms. I know, I know everyone loves Currie and metal cloak but it was a fun project and cheap compared to buying new.
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post #3 of 79 Old 04-11-2016, 11:24 PM
26679cj5
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For the rubber end, poly performance has new inserts sort of like metalcloak's
which are made to replace pressed in clevites.

Frame swap/body reconditioning/buildup thread: http://www.mountaineeroffroad.com/sh...1146#post51146
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post #4 of 79 Old 04-12-2016, 07:50 AM
Ross
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Originally Posted by 26679cj5 View Post
For the rubber end, poly performance has new inserts sort of like metalcloak's
which are made to replace pressed in clevites.

can you post the link?

01 TJ, 34 Super Swaper 34x10.5 bias, Winch, locked, belly up, some armor, 4.0, 5spd
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post #5 of 79 Old 04-12-2016, 11:54 AM
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emcee5000 View Post
Check ballistic fabrication. I recently used their 2.0 joints for the rear upper control arms on a used set of rubicon express to replace the rubber bushings. Cut, reweld and then used a sleeve to maintain factory bolt. I then purchased the 2.63 joints for the axle side of the rear set of skyjacker control arms. I know, I know everyone loves Currie and metal cloak but it was a fun project and cheap compared to buying new.
How's Ballastic doing these days as far as keeping up with orders and actually delivering? They've had a rocky past (much documented over on Pirate). They very well might have things sorted out these days, but I'd still be wary ordering from them unless I knew parts were in hand and shipping pronto.

#feelthejohnson
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post #6 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 12:08 AM
emcee5000
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Yeah, I read all the old(er) threads on pirate and was wary myself. However, they far exceeded my expectations on my last 3 orders. The last one I ordered the 2.0's on a Sunday night and had them on my door step on wed. Given the fact Amazon prime has ruined everyone's expectations on how to online buy and ship I consider it very good service. I am glad I did, the parts are excellent quality.
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post #7 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 02:39 AM
26679cj5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
How's Ballastic doing these days as far as keeping up with orders and actually delivering? They've had a rocky past (much documented over on Pirate). They very well might have things sorted out these days, but I'd still be wary ordering from them unless I knew parts were in hand and shipping pronto.
They're hiring right now to try to keep up with demand better. They have some tj/dana 30 specific stuff that nobody else seems interested in making, so I hope they really do get things lined out.

Frame swap/body reconditioning/buildup thread: http://www.mountaineeroffroad.com/sh...1146#post51146
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post #8 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 09:01 AM
vbohannon64
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You can buy the currie or metalcloak joints with threads and screw them right into your lower arms. Same threads but much better joints. getting ready do just that.
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post #9 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 09:12 AM
Ross
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Originally Posted by vbohannon64 View Post
You can buy the currie or metalcloak joints with threads and screw them right into your lower arms. Same threads but much better joints. getting ready do just that.
on the RC the side with the clevite is fixed and not a screw in joint, you would need a bushing of some sort you could press in.


What is it about the other end that makes the Currie better than the RC?


The Metalcoak s a different design and many say it offers a smoother ride.


one of these pics is the Currie the other the RC. I have never found out what type of urethane (if there are different types) one is versus the other. Both have the same hardness and are very similar is design. Both offer 35 deg of flex.


What makes the Currie better? People get made when I ask this. I am not saying one is or is not better but if that is the case WHY is one better than the other?


01 TJ, 34 Super Swaper 34x10.5 bias, Winch, locked, belly up, some armor, 4.0, 5spd
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post #10 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
on the RC the de with the clevite is fixed and not a screw in joint, you would need a bushing of some sort you could press in. What is it about the other end that makes the Currie or Metalcloak better and between those two would one be better than the other?
Just can't help yourself, can you?

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post #11 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 09:59 AM
Ross
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Just can't help yourself, can you?


Can you answer my question? The metalcloak seems to offer a smoother ride. What does the Currie offer? When you buy the end the Currie does come assembled, the RC does not. There is a difference in how they go together but what is the benefit of the Currie?

01 TJ, 34 Super Swaper 34x10.5 bias, Winch, locked, belly up, some armor, 4.0, 5spd
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post #12 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 12:22 PM
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I have currie johnny joints, metalcloak joints, and rc joints. I have had the threaded piece that tightens the rc joint together actually bend and blow out more than once. I have yet to see any loosening or failure with my currie or metalcloak parts. rc is fine for a dd rig but not something you plan to abuse then drive to work like it do.
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post #13 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 12:58 PM
Ross
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Originally Posted by vbohannon64 View Post
I have currie johnny joints, metalcloak joints, and rc joints. I have had the threaded piece that tightens the rc joint together actually bend and blow out more than once. I have yet to see any loosening or failure with my currie or metalcloak parts. rc is fine for a dd rig but not something you plan to abuse then drive to work like it do.



I had a friend where the nut would come lose, that was a concern when I got mine. I tack welded the nut to the arm on mine. Did the nut loosen up before it bent or do you know? Did it ruin the arm or just the end?


I haven't had any issues with mine but when ever I ask this question I never get answers, just people grumbling. Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.

01 TJ, 34 Super Swaper 34x10.5 bias, Winch, locked, belly up, some armor, 4.0, 5spd
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post #14 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 01:45 PM
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Having flashbacks of the "Went to an offroad shop today..." thread.
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post #15 of 79 Old 04-13-2016, 03:03 PM
vbohannon64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross View Post
I had a friend where the nut would come lose, that was a concern when I got mine. I tack welded the nut to the arm on mine. Did the nut loosen up before it bent or do you know? Did it ruin the arm or just the end?


I haven't had any issues with mine but when ever I ask this question I never get answers, just people grumbling. Thanks for taking the time to answer my question.
No the nut had not come loose. I am referring to the thin threaded piece on the side of the joint. Not the big jam nut. but it did ruin the joint and I had to slap a spare in it which has been junk also but it is a rustys joint I had laying around. You get what you pay for...
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