The other day I finally had to replace the UCA axle end bushings. I read many stories of how it can be such a PITA to remove these things by having to burn, cut, hammer, or remove the springs to get a ball joint press in, etc. Ideally you want the Miller 7932 tool to make quick work of the job:
Only thing is... I'm in no position to drop $350 for such a tool. I found threads where people have made their own bushing removal tool, but they were vague and didn't document what to get very well. So, I'm sharing my own version of the tool. Hopefully it helps save those of you about to do this job some time and headache. You can get everything at Home Depot/local hardware store for about $20.
1x 3/8-16"x8" Hex Bolt
(It would be best if you could find one at least grade 5 or higher, but I couldn't find one readily available. I settled with just a regular zinc bolt. It held up fine for me, but might not for you if there is a lot of rust underneath for those of you living in the salt belt.)
8x 3/8" Fender Washers
1x 2" Rigid Conduit Coupling
2x 2" Galvanized Pipe Plug
(My Home Depot didn't have it, so I got it at a locally operated hardware store.)
1x 3/8" Rod Coupling
After you have collected all these parts, drill a 1/2" hole in the center of both 2" pipe plugs. You will also need to cut a notch out of the 2" conduit coupling, so it can sit flush against the housing when pressing out the driver's side bushing. I used an angle grinder. You should now have something that looks like this:
Pressing out the bushing should be pretty self explanatory. Imo it's easier to show a picture rather than explain how to set it up. It should look like this:
To press the new bushing back into the housing, reverse the setup. I found that using the second pipe plug was better than using washers. The pipe plug sat perfectly on the metal clevite housing, and won't compress or tear the rubber. Like so:
Also, be careful on the passenger side when pressing the new bushing in. That bracket is flimsy and doesn't like being pressed on. If you don't put something between the bracket for support, it will bend as you press the new bushing in. Mine bent, but I managed to hammer it back out no problem.
So there you have it, my home made version of the UCA bushing removal/installation tool. No cutting, hammering, burning the bushing out, or fiddling with a big awkward ball joint press. As I mentioned before, the main weakness is that bolt. It worked perfect for me, but my Jeep doesn't have any rust underneath. If your bushings are seized in there good, you may want to find a hardened bolt instead of the one I used. And I apologize for the lack of pictures of the tool in use, but it was freezing outside and I was trying to git-r-done as fast as I could.