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post #76 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 08:35 AM
Ironhead
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True, but its still good to use a device that reads info from your ecu.

I was amazed to find out that my speedometer is actually about 2 mph off of my ecu and GPS readings



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post #77 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
For some TJs but not all and some of the gauges are dumber than others.
Agreed, Earlier TJ temp gauge does have value to it.
02 was the last yr for useful temp/pressure gauges on the Dodge CTD (Cummins turbo diesel).
After that year it was a three position gauge.... basically Low, OK, or High
It's reasonable to suspect Jeep probably same yrs.?
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post #78 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 09:16 AM
Jerry Bransford
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Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
That's a good point to add as the dash gauges are dummy gauges with exception to mph and rpm.
That's not true on early TJs, they only reprogrammed the oil pressure gauge around 2002 to give a mid-scale reading if everything is ok so as to not unnecessarily alarm those who don't understand that oil pressure is supposed to go up & down with engine rpms. My '97 TJ's oil pressure gauge was accurate. The other gauges are still accurate.

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post #79 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
That's not true on early TJs, they only reprogrammed the oil pressure gauge around 2002 to give a mid-scale reading if everything is ok so as to not unnecessarily alarm those who don't understand that oil pressure is supposed to go up & down with engine rpms. My '97 TJ's oil pressure gauge was accurate. The other gauges are still accurate.
As i understand it, the coolant temp gauge isn't an actual gauge either on the later jeeps. I believe Unlimited04 has posted about it in the past and how the gauge won't move significantly until it is too hot and then it jumps to the red zone. Mine also behaves in a similar fashion. The needle would hardly move even when I was getting heat soak.

I do agree that there is an issue with the cooling system if an increase in temp is noticed by adding a winch. Mine cools just fine now that I replaced my bad fan clutch.

Edit: found the link to the discussion on gauges

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/temp-ok-not-1244859/
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post #80 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 09:54 AM
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As i understand it, the coolant temp gauge isn't an actual gauge either on the later jeeps. I believe Unlimited04 has posted about it in the past and how the gauge won't move significantly until it is too hot and then it jumps to the red zone.

I do agree that there is an issue with the cooling system if an increase in temp is noticed by adding a winch. Mine cools just fine now that I replaced my bad fan clutch.
My '04 temp gauge seems to work fine, including the several times my engine overheated last year.

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post #81 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
My '04 temp gauge seems to work fine, including the several times my engine overheated last year.
Seriously? Was the gauge or sending unit swapped out? Ever had a scan tool on it?

My 05 and 03, plus the girls 06 all jump between 200 and 214 as the thermostat opens, but the needle just sits at 210


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post #82 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
My '04 temp gauge seems to work fine, including the several times my engine overheated last year.
my 04 temp gauge is little more than an idiot light, and I suspect yours is the same exact way.

slap a scan tool on it, and you'll notice something interesting.

the dash gauge points at "about" 210 when the ECU reading is actually between roughly 185-235. Once it gets past about 245F or so, the gauge starts moving off the 210 mark...then as the engine continues to heat up very fast, the gauge quickly pegs over in the red and trips a CEL....but by that time it's been way too hot for way too long, and you could have done something to keep it from overheating a long time ago.

My personal experience has been that there is very little warning that anything is wrong, unless you have a scantool to watch real temps. The dash temp gauge is about as useful as the oil pressure gauge. When it points at 210, call it 210 +/- 30.

I also have overheating issues with my 04, and have since it was nearly new.....if I trust the factory temp gauge. Mine hasn't actually overheated in years, because I started paying attention to my Scangauge II instead of the dash gauge. The scangauge's more accurate temps gives me enough warning to do something to prevent the engine from reaching that overheating point. In my case, it means turning off the A/C, and turning on the heater....on a blazing hot day.


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post #83 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
my 04 temp gauge is little more than an idiot light, and I suspect yours is the same exact way.

slap a scan tool on it, and you'll notice something interesting.

the dash gauge points at "about" 210 when the ECU reading is actually between roughly 185-235. Once it gets past about 245F or so, the gauge starts moving off the 210 mark...then as the engine continues to heat up very fast, the gauge quickly pegs over in the red and trips a CEL....but by that time it's been way too hot for way too long, and you could have done something to keep it from overheating a long time ago.

My personal experience has been that there is very little warning that anything is wrong, unless you have a scantool to watch real temps. The dash temp gauge is about as useful as the oil pressure gauge. When it points at 210, call it 210 +/- 30.

I also have overheating issues with my 04, and have since it was nearly new.....if I trust the factory temp gauge. Mine hasn't actually overheated in years, because I started paying attention to my Scangauge II instead of the dash gauge. The scangauge's more accurate temps gives me enough warning to do something to prevent the engine from reaching that overheating point. In my case, it means turning off the A/C, and turning on the heater....on a blazing hot day.



Life Is Good , cup of hot tea on me Mike, to gowith the heat on a blazing hot day.

Rokmen TT, Rokmen control arms, Novak NV241 cable shifter, JKS 1.25" BL + 1" MML.

Anybody can take advice if it doesn't interfere with their plan.

RIP "Prescott 19" Prescott Fire Department
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post #84 of 93 Old 06-19-2013, 04:12 PM
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My 06 guage follows my ScanGuage II pretty closely.
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post #85 of 93 Old 06-29-2013, 04:57 PM
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This thread has helped me answer a lot of questions. My radiator recently started to leak at normal place and I was really questioning what replace it with... NAPA, OE, OEM, all aluminum, etc. I decided to go with OEM Mopar, $112 plus tax couldn't be beat! Now I have a project for next weekend. QUESTION... my 2001 4.0 only has 58k on the original motor, should I worry about changing the water pump, thermo? I am currently having NO issues with cooling, short of the leaking radiator. Thanks!
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post #86 of 93 Old 06-29-2013, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BicycleCaptain View Post
This thread has helped me answer a lot of questions. My radiator recently started to leak at normal place and I was really questioning what replace it with... NAPA, OE, OEM, all aluminum, etc. I decided to go with OEM Mopar, $112 plus tax couldn't be beat! Now I have a project for next weekend. QUESTION... my 2001 4.0 only has 58k on the original motor, should I worry about changing the water pump, thermo? I am currently having NO issues with cooling, short of the leaking radiator. Thanks!
Where did you find a Mopar rad for $112?

Rokmen TT, Rokmen control arms, Novak NV241 cable shifter, JKS 1.25" BL + 1" MML.

Anybody can take advice if it doesn't interfere with their plan.

RIP "Prescott 19" Prescott Fire Department
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post #87 of 93 Old 06-29-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Necko2529 View Post
Where did you find a Mopar rad for $112?
I was a Chrysler Tech a in previous life and pulled some strings.
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post #88 of 93 Old 06-29-2013, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BicycleCaptain View Post
I was a Chrysler Tech a in previous life and pulled some strings.
Gotcha. That's a great deal, good job.

Rokmen TT, Rokmen control arms, Novak NV241 cable shifter, JKS 1.25" BL + 1" MML.

Anybody can take advice if it doesn't interfere with their plan.

RIP "Prescott 19" Prescott Fire Department
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post #89 of 93 Old 06-30-2013, 10:46 AM
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SUPERCHARGED TJ cooling

We kept the stock Jeep radiator when we added a Kenne Bell supercharger (283/403 hp/torque vs. stock 190/235... 44% more HP and 52% more torque) to our 4.0 liter I-6 in our 2003 Rubicon a couple of years ago. To avoid any cooling issues, we did the following cooling system upgrades and its worked GREAT even in HOT rock crawling in Moab:

AEV heat reducing hood
Flow Kooler high flow water pump
Mopar 7-blade fan PN: 55037650AA DISCONTINUED (got mine years ago)
Mopar HD fan clutch PN: 05066177AA
Turbo City high flow thermostat housing
Turbo City high flow thermostat (160 degree for Kenne Bell supercharger)

We also have a Hanson Enterprises front bumper (same as Tomb Raider movie Jeep) which has a depressed (lower) built-in winch mount that keeps our relatively low profile Warn 9000i winch out of most of the airflow.

The Mopar fan & HD fan clutch are described in detail here: http://www.savagesun4x4.com/enter/fa...clutch_in.html

As always, YMMV but these upgrades have worked GREAT on our HOT supercharged 4.0

Read more: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/267734...#ixzz2XiIkFfO5
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post #90 of 93 Old 06-30-2013, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BicycleCaptain View Post
..... I decided to go with OEM Mopar, $112 plus tax couldn't be beat! Now I have a project for next weekend..... !
Quote:
Originally Posted by BicycleCaptain View Post
I was a Chrysler Tech a in previous life and pulled some strings.
I wouldn't change from factory parts at 58,000 miles. JMO.

And spectaculat deal on the Rad!
I got a little over 10% off and paid $255.00 last month... and was happy

RJ
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