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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:01 PM   #61
JBTJ
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Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
isnt that backwards, as heat rises, why would you want the hotter liquid at the bottom.

naturally it doesnt make a difference at speed, but while wheeling
Because the coolant in pumped in at the top of the radiator and as it falls to be bottom the air flowing thru the radiator has time to cool it.

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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:04 PM   #62
RowJ
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Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
i've never gauged it, but how cool do you think the return coolant is? i doubt you'd see more than a 30 deg delta, just a guestimation, so we are talking around 180
Your 30* is about right!!
I put a infared heat gun on upper and lower radiator hoses..... after a 20 min drive home, on hwy.
Top Hose = 187*
Bottom Hose = 152*
OAT = 92*

I also measured height of actual (air flow) fins from both.
Tough to be exact measuring cooling fins height, when on the TJ ........
but as best I can determine, manual radiator has 1" taller fin area than automatic radiator!

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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:16 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
Because the coolant in pumped in at the top of the radiator and as it falls to be bottom the air flowing thru the radiator has time to cool it.
that is correct, thats how the engine coolant part of a radiator works. my statement was questioning the design that was used to put an even hotter liquid at the bottom of a radiator, if the trans fluid is in fact hotter than the engine coolant
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:21 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
that is correct, thats how the engine coolant part of a radiator works. my statement was questioning the design that was used to put an even hotter liquid at the bottom of a radiator, if the trans fluid is in fact hotter than the engine coolant
To cool the transmission fluid down when it gets hot...
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:21 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
that is correct, thats how the engine coolant part of a radiator works. my statement was questioning the design that was used to put an even hotter liquid at the bottom of a radiator, if the trans fluid is in fact hotter than the engine coolant
Well I guess if they put it at the top it wouldn't cool down as well. But most of the time my ATF is about the same temp as the coolant at the bottom of the tank.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:23 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
To cool the transmission fluid down when it gets hot...
ok, that makes sense, so if the trans fluid gets too hot, a bit of added strain should be no problem for the engine cooling system
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:30 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
ok, that makes sense, so if the trans fluid gets too hot, a bit of added strain should be no problem for the engine cooling system
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:32 PM   #68
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I love my Griffin all-aluminum single-row. Very well made and easily keeps the coolant at the proper temp on the hottest days, going uphill in the mountains with the a/c on.

The only reason I didn't go OEM is because my orignial OEM leaked at the plastic tank seams. Also, a friend of mine had the plastic tank on his OEM blow out on the highway.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:38 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by btn View Post
I love my Griffin all-aluminum single-row. Very well made and easily keeps the coolant at the proper temp on the hottest days, going uphill in the mountains with the a/c on.

The only reason I didn't go OEM is because my orignial OEM leaked at the plastic tank seams. Also, a friend of mine had the plastic tank on his OEM blow out on the highway.
Just remember, just because yours is all aluminum doest mean it can't have problems either. If fact, I think the OEM design is better due to the crimped on tanks, as the tank can flex with the frame of the JEEP and not spring a leak like a radiator that is more rigid. Also how old was yours before it leaked and your buddies blew out on the highway?
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:41 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Telling people to look for OEM radiators for $100 is like telling them to go find the 7 blade TSB fan.
Like this one?

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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:43 PM   #71
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Just remember, just because yours is all aluminum doest mean it can't have problems either. If fact, I think the OEM design is better due to the crimped on tanks, as the tank can flex with the frame of the JEEP and not spring a leak like a radiator that is more rigid. Also how old was yours before it leaked and your buddies blew out on the highway?
Mine was leaking when I got the Jeep used at about 136K. I don't know when it started. It was just a mild seam leak and it wouldn't hold pressure. My friend's was under 100K. Based on these two things, I wanted to spring for something more realiable that still cools well, (or hopefully more reliable in the long term. I guess I won't know for a while).
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:46 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by btn View Post
Mine was leaking when I got the Jeep used at about 136K. I don't know when it started. It was just a mild seam leak and it wouldn't hold pressure. My friend's was under 100K. Based on these two things, I wanted to spring for something more realiable that still cools well, (or hopefully more reliable in the long term. I guess I won't know for a while).
Let's hope so.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 11:12 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Your cooling system simply has a problem that has made it marginal. By itself, a winch won't cause an engine to run hotter. Those of us with winches & properly functioning cooling system don't see hotter engine temps at all.
But it never got that high before the winch. i was idling in 103 degree heat today and the temps didn't go above 220.

I have installed poison spyders hood louvers. And just recently I've noticed my fan is "engaged" at temps as low as 220. Maybe my fan clutch is going out?

The fact that it only runs higher at highway speed (2500+ rpm) is what leads me to believe the winch and my kc lights on my smittybilt src bumper are restricting airflow.

And btw, I'm using a scantool-like device for temp readings. My dash gauge needle stayed between the 1 and 0 of the 210 mark.

I'm not worried about this increase in highway temps as I rarely drive at that speed except for those rare trips to the beach or ranch. Ideally I'd like temps a little cooler so I was thinking of moving that control box for the winch from on top of the drum to somewhere under the hood to let a little more air by.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 07:27 AM   #74
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That's a good point to add as the dash gauges are dummy gauges with exception to mph and rpm.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 07:29 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
That's a good point to add as the dash gauges are dummy gauges with exception to mph and rpm.
For some TJs but not all and some of the gauges are dumber than others.
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