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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:32 PM   #46
Ironhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ View Post
We're talking about cooled down coolant.... from the bottom of the cooling tubes/fins!

I'm starting to feel like we are beating this subject to death!
i've never gauged it, but how cool do you think the return coolant is? i doubt you'd see more than a 30 deg delta, just a guestimation, so we are talking around 180

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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:33 PM   #47
lunchbox704
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Link for OEM radiator for $100?

http://www.craigslist.org/about/sites

Anything else I can do for you?
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:36 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by lunchbox704 View Post

Anything else I can do for you?
See prior message about understanding the difference and be honest with yourself about what you bought. A lot of people by joints they call Johnnie joints but they aren't.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:37 PM   #49
lunchbox704
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
See prior message about understanding the difference and be honest with yourself about what you bought.
Again, I do. Why are you trying to be such an a-hole?
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:40 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by lunchbox704 View Post

Again, I do. Why are you trying to be such an a-hole?
You are giving BS advice. Telling people they can buy OEM radiators for $100 is completely misleading. Tell you what, I'll buy as many new in box OEM radiators as you can sell me for $125? You should be able to make a killing.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:42 PM   #51
lunchbox704
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So the fact that I happened to find one for $100 online (which is why I chose to use that instead of an oem style or some other aftermarket radiator) makes my point any less valid?

You get your jollies trying to bully people online? Simply pathetic.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:47 PM   #52
biffgnar
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Originally Posted by lunchbox704 View Post
You get your jollies trying to bully people online? Simply pathetic.
Just giving actual usable advice to people reading this thread. Telling people to look for OEM radiators for $100 is like telling them to go find the 7 blade TSB fan.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:54 PM   #53
lunchbox704
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Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Just giving actual usable advice to people reading this thread. Telling people to look for OEM radiators for $100 is like telling them to go find the 7 blade TSB fan.
Reading comprehension would do you well. I never said that he should expect to pay $100, I said that I found one for $100 and I did my install for $100?

Now, are you done hijacking this thread with your need to measure your e-penis?
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Unread 06-18-2013, 02:59 PM   #54
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lunchbox704

I went with the OEM PART and installed it myself. Spent about $100 and took about an hour. Better than the $500 I was quoted.

PS, mine had an ATF cooling tank but I just ignored that.
Do they have any more for that price? Can you post a link for me, been anxious to get a new one and that is a excellent price for OEM.
Thanks.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:00 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by lunchbox704 View Post

Reading comprehension would do you well. I never said that he should expect to pay $100, I said that I found one for $100 and I did my install for $100?

Now, are you done hijacking this thread with your need to measure your e-penis?
No, I'm not done and it has nothing to do with my masculinity. If you were a newb reading this thread and read "I replaced with OEM and it cost me $100" with no other qualification what would you do? I'd think I could find OEM for $100 but that ain't happening. People post **** thinking it makes them sound cool and it turns into crap advice. I'm going to call that out all the time.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:01 PM   #56
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I just want to talk Physics for a moment. First of all, there are TWO things to consider when selecting a radiator. These are the metal used in the core and the number of tubes in the core.

1) Aluminum cores are best - that is what MOPAR uses in the OEM radiator, along with plastic end caps. YES it is true that copper conducts heat better than aluminum, but you ABSOLUTELY CANNOT BUY a copper radiator, and that metal is way too weak and would immediately rupture when the system pressurized. The cheap "Copper/Brass" radiators sold by Radiator Barn and other vendors cool WORSE than the OEM, because brass conducts less heat than aluminum, especially after being painted black. (Black paint is pretty much required or the soldered seams will corrode.) If you replace an OEM radiator with a Copper/Brass unit, even one labelled 2-tube or 3-tube, you will lose cooling capacity versus the OEM aluminum core. You may not realize this is a problem until the first hot weather after the radiator change, which could be months later.

Two brands of premium all-aluminum radiators (i.e. no plastic end-caps) are Griffin and Mishimoto. The Mishimoto 2-tube radiator costs about $350 and offers about 20% more cooling capacity than the OEM 1-tube aluminum/plastic, and offers it at low trail speeds, and they are direct bolt-in. Griffin aftermarket radiators can be configured with various numbers of tubes in the core, and frequently require that you trim sheet metal and use a Griffin fan shroud and/or electric fan, but offer up to 50% or more cooling capacity than the OEM radiator, and are reccomended for up to 5.0L 360-hp blown or turbo stroker Jeep motors.

Premium Griffin radiators are $500 and up, as much as $900 with dual fans and shroud and billet caps. But you can order anything including a unit that will cool a hotrod V-8 engine in a Jeep.

2) The number of tubes in the core is a trade-off and Jeep originally shipped 2-tube OEM radiators in TJs, but switched to 1-tube cores in the later TJ model years. More tubes is better at trail speeds, but at highway speed, more air bypasses the Jeep grille. Fewer tubes does not cool as well at trail speeds, but offers less drag which increases gas mileage slightly and cools better at highway speeds or high altitudes, by allowing more airflow through the front grille. Select the number of tubes according to your needs.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:04 PM   #57
lunchbox704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
Do they have any more for that price? Can you post a link for me, been anxious to get a new one and that is a excellent price for OEM.
Thanks.
No, it was a guy that wrecked his jeep before he had a chance to install it.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:07 PM   #58
lunchbox704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
No, I'm not done and it has nothing to do with my masculinity. If you were a newb reading this thread and read "I replaced with OEM and it cost me $100" with no other qualification what would you do? I'd think I could find OEM for $100 but that ain't happening. People post **** thinking it makes them sound cool and it turns into crap advice. I'm going to call that out all the time.
Well, perhaps instead of attempting to insult my intelligence by suggesting that I didn't know what I was talking about, you should have asked for clarification first. But you didn't do that. You decided to make an assumption which was completely incorrect.

Good job!
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:34 PM   #59
Knuckelhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RowJ View Post
But I'm also curious to see if cooling fin area on an auto radiator is same as on a manual radiator.
If both are OEM radiators, they are the same. IIRC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
even if its an auto, if your ATF fluid is hotter than your coolant, you have other issues
Nope, that's one of the reasons why the automatic transmission fluid is plumbed through the lower radiator tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhead View Post
i've never gauged it, but how cool do you think the return coolant is? i doubt you'd see more than a 30 deg delta, just a guestimation, so we are talking around 180
IIRC it can be closer to 60 degrees.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserJeep View Post
If you replace an OEM radiator with a Copper/Brass unit, even one labelled 2-tube or 3-tube, you will lose cooling capacity versus the OEM aluminum core.
Did you mean "2 or 3 row"?...
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:41 PM   #60
Ironhead
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Nope, that's one of the reasons why the automatic transmission fluid is plumbed through the lower radiator tank.
isnt that backwards, as heat rises, why would you want the hotter liquid at the bottom.

naturally it doesnt make a difference at speed, but while wheeling
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