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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:50 PM   #1
cbass68
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Replacement bushings -poly vs rubber

Recently bought a 97 tj and am fixing it up for my son's first car. It appears that most of the rubber bushings are worn or rotted. (151,000 mis) Thinking about a complete bushing kit. I've heard poly can squeak over time. Anyone else ever hear that? Any reason not to get it from JCW...? This jeep will mostly be a "mall crawler"...

Thanks for any help!

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Unread 05-06-2013, 05:56 PM   #2
B52dude
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Poly bushings can be tough on the axle mounts, as in they will rip them off given enough flex. They can be noisy and transmit a ton of vibration. I (and most others) stick with rubber when at all possible for bushings.

EDIT: Rock Auto and Amazon always seem to have the best prices and selection.
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Unread 05-06-2013, 06:40 PM   #3
JEK3
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I disagree. I've had poly for a couple years (just replaced everything with Currie CAs, though). No noise, no vibrations. They never ripped off any mounts, although I really didn't do any significant offroading. I've got some gently used front stock control arms with poly bushings you can try for the cost of shipping, and a full rear CA bushing set I never quite got around to installing that you can have for cheap.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 07:16 AM   #4
geiman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
They never ripped off any mounts, although I really didn't do any significant offroading.
If you did more offroading your results might have been different:



Some may have better luck with them, but they put a quick end to a weekend of wheeling for a friend of mine.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 09:15 AM   #5
WKdeuce
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Stick with OEM rubber (clevite).
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Unread 05-07-2013, 09:49 AM   #6
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by WKdeuce View Post
Stick with OEM rubber (clevite).
x2...and it's easier to replace the whole sticking arm than try to push the bushings out and new ones back in.

RockAuto usually has reasonable prices a full replacement arms with OEM style bushings included.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 10:03 AM   #7
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04

x2...and it's easier to replace the whole sticking arm than try to push the bushings out and new ones back in.

RockAuto usually has reasonable prices a full replacement arms with OEM style bushings included.
Hey unlimited, if I recall you replaced your upper front axle end bushings with OEM. Would you do the same again? Ever consider doing this JJ conversion? When I installed new clevites in my RE lower arms it took a full 20 tons of force to seat them because the metal housing around the Clevite has a raised shoulder that has to collapse to fit in the arm end. Do you recall if the front upper bushings have this same raised shoulder that has to collapse for installation (thinking on the cast driver side)?
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Unread 05-07-2013, 11:20 AM   #8
Unlimited04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
Hey unlimited, if I recall you replaced your upper front axle end bushings with OEM. Would you do the same again? Ever consider doing this JJ conversion? When I installed new clevites in my RE lower arms it took a full 20 tons of force to seat them because the metal housing around the Clevite has a raised shoulder that has to collapse to fit in the arm end. Do you recall if the front upper bushings have this same raised shoulder that has to collapse for installation (thinking on the cast driver side)?
i did use OEM Clevite's in the front axle. stock bushings are press-fit...so you do need a press to get them in/out. it's not that anything collapses, it's an interference fit (also called press-fit). friction holds em place.

I'd do it again. I like the JJ conversion, but I ain't interested in spending that kinda money on a D30 for my purposes at this point.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 11:40 AM   #9
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04

i did use OEM Clevite's in the front axle. stock bushings are press-fit...so you do need a press to get them in/out. it's not that anything collapses, it's an interference fit (also called press-fit). friction holds em place.

I'd do it again. I like the JJ conversion, but I ain't interested in spending that kinda money on a D30 for my purposes at this point.
Cool, thanks for the reply. I have one of those harbor freight ball joint presses and have seen the pics of doing it with an all thread tool (I think the pics may have been yours). Thanks again.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 11:56 AM   #10
WKdeuce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
Cool, thanks for the reply. I have one of those harbor freight ball joint presses and have seen the pics of doing it with an all thread tool (I think the pics may have been yours). Thanks again.
Just make sure you're pushing it out on the metal collar of the bushing, not on the rubber. If you push on the rubber you're gonna get nowhere fast. Also, don't collapse the passenger side UCA mount, it's fragile.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 12:01 PM   #11
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WKdeuce

Just make sure you're pushing it out on the metal collar of the bushing, not on the rubber. If you push on the rubber you're gonna get nowhere fast. Also, don't collapse the passenger side UCA mount, it's fragile.
Will do, already been thinking of the spacer I'm gonna make for the passenger side. Speaking I'd fragile, pushing a bushing into the sheet metal flanges just doesn't seem like a good way to make a replaceable bushing. The driver side, I never imagine that hole would ever open up, but the sheet metal flanges on the passenger side do look like they could distort if a person wasn't careful or tried to push in one too many bushings over time.
Thanks though, sorry for the thread derail.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 03:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post

If you did more offroading your results might have been different:

Some may have better luck with them, but they put a quick end to a weekend of wheeling for a friend of mine.
True, but I bought them to fix my death wobble, and they worked well.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 03:10 PM   #13
Unlimited04
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Originally Posted by J03_TJ View Post
the sheet metal flanges on the passenger side do look like they could distort if a person wasn't careful
you have to crib the flanges with scrap metal to keep them from distorting, and clamp as necessary. a hammer helps coerce them back into position as the ball joint press tries to distort them too.

after I got the bushing out, I welded some reinforcing plates on the stock bracket to keep it from distorting or crushing in the future.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 04:35 PM   #14
J03_TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04

you have to crib the flanges with scrap metal to keep them from distorting, and clamp as necessary. a hammer helps coerce them back into position as the ball joint press tries to distort them too.

after I got the bushing out, I welded some reinforcing plates on the stock bracket to keep it from distorting or crushing in the future.
Thanks for the tips.
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