Replaced rear axle seal and now leaking again - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 31 Old 01-15-2013, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
rubidriver
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A week ago I replaced my brakes and while doing so I noticed oil on the inside of the rotor (passenger side). It was a very minor leak so I replaced the axle seal and bearing with one from Carquest. It was a A-10 bearing and a matching seal. They seemed to be decent quality. I pressed it back on paying attention to every detail I did. Everything seemed straight, I filled it to the top of the fill hole with 80w-90 oil and took it on a few inclines to get some oil in the axle tubes. A week later and about 200 miles I notice its leaking even worse before. I have heard stories of having to do it a number of times before it is right but that was already 60 bucks in seals and bearing and another 20 in oil. Can I disassemble and tighten or straighten anything to make this thing seal???
I did everything with my dad making sure it was all correct and then this happens. Does RTV need to be applied to any part of the seal?

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2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #2 of 31 Old 01-15-2013, 02:01 PM
stump1
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sure its not brake fluid, ok read yer post closer im guessing seal wasnt seated correctly

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post #3 of 31 Old 01-15-2013, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
rubidriver
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I am sure it's fresh gear oil. My finger is pointing to a drop of oil that I wiped off of the rotor shield last night and it was there when I returned again this morning. I am seeing on the Internet that people sometimes use rtv to seal the bearing seal off more. I didn't over fill but I did drive in the ditch for a few seconds to get the oil back in the tubes, I dunno if that's a factor or not. It's a slow but steady leak. Oil is on the inside of the rim as well
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image-1567519863.jpg   image-295648666.jpg  

2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #4 of 31 Old 01-15-2013, 02:21 PM
rjacobs
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Shoulda RTV'd it IMO
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post #5 of 31 Old 01-15-2013, 02:25 PM
Andy-WhiteTJ
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Were there any grooves in the axle shaft? Over a period of time, a seal can wear a groove in the shaft. Putting a new seal in the housing may not help if the shaft has wear.

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post #6 of 31 Old 01-15-2013, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
rubidriver
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There were no grooves. The Jeep is at 58,000 miles and has only been on the street. I take good care of her which is why I'm surprised. Looking at STU Offroad I'm seeing rtv being used. Damnit.

2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #7 of 31 Old 01-16-2013, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
rubidriver
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Bump, anyone else?

2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #8 of 31 Old 01-16-2013, 07:26 PM
redjeep2
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did you replace the backing plate, my jeep has a bunch more wear but i didnt do that once and had them leak. The manual says replace them each time.
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post #9 of 31 Old 01-16-2013, 07:30 PM
Kodiak17
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No RTV could be the problem or it didn't seat well. Pull it and try again.

Maintain, wheel, upgrade, repeat.

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post #10 of 31 Old 01-16-2013, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
rubidriver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redjeep2 View Post
did you replace the backing plate, my jeep has a bunch more wear but i didnt do that once and had them leak. The manual says replace them each time.
I only replaced the bearing and seal. Im not sure why the backing plate would wear enough to need to be replaced. Did it leak right after you did it?

2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

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your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #11 of 31 Old 01-16-2013, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodiak17
No RTV could be the problem or it didn't seat well. Pull it and try again.
^ what he said.
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post #12 of 31 Old 01-17-2013, 02:07 AM
bluedent
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I had my axle seals replaced by a mechanic - twice. The first time by a local guy down the street who used generic seals. They started leaking within about a month and the he wouldn't stand behind his work (will never go there again). SO, the second time I took it to a well known Jeep specialist here in new england who told me their experience was that only the factory seals held up well. They installed the factory seals for me about 5 months ago along with doing some other work, and so far so good. Trying some Factory seals from the dealer would be my suggestion.
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post #13 of 31 Old 01-17-2013, 08:38 AM
mrblaine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubidriver View Post
I am sure it's fresh gear oil. My finger is pointing to a drop of oil that I wiped off of the rotor shield last night and it was there when I returned again this morning. I am seeing on the Internet that people sometimes use rtv to seal the bearing seal off more. I didn't over fill but I did drive in the ditch for a few seconds to get the oil back in the tubes, I dunno if that's a factor or not. It's a slow but steady leak. Oil is on the inside of the rim as well
I've done many many seal swaps with and without RTV around the outer edge. I don't like doing RTV due to how difficult it can make it to remove the inner race. I also don't like how easy it is to get RTV in all the wrong places so I quit using it to see what happened.

What happened is nothing bad. If you have viable surfaces and bores with a quality part, RTV is not needed. If I had your problem, I'd hunt down the National seal that has the expanding skirt like Set 20 uses and give that a shot.

It is also very very easy to nick the bottom edge of the Spicer type seal when you install the shaft back into the axle on the dust shield which can and does move around.

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post #14 of 31 Old 01-17-2013, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
rubidriver
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Ok so I took the wheel off, took the caliper and rotor off, took the 4 nuts that hold the backing plate on. And the axle shaft practically fell out, I used barely any force with a screw driver and it came out. When I did it the first time it took a little bit of force with a slide hammer puller. These are the pictures I took. I may be wrong but it looks as if the retainer slid upward and is causing this. I havent showed my dad yet or else I would know
Attached Thumbnails
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2005 Black Rubicon - OME 933/942 - 4" Bilstein 5100 (canister up) - JKS Adj Track Bars Front/Rear - JKS Quicker Discos - 285/75/16

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigj1974 View Post
your money will go farther in College Station.
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post #15 of 31 Old 01-17-2013, 03:37 PM
redjeep2
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the bearing and retainer get pressed on, doesnt look like they are all the way on, need a press or a heavy puller to put them on/off.

mine leaked right away when i didnt change the back plate, but my back plate was older, and looked worse than yours. my 44 is a 98 and the manual says change them may be different on newer ones. I use timken or oem bearings and seals and have good luck with either.
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