[PurpleTJ]

yes, i know. i have searched, and i found all the other threads, but i need more help.

i have the nut and bolt on the pass. side out, and i have the nut off of the drivers side, but i just cant seem to get the tapered bolt out from the draglink. some people say that heating it works really well, but all i have is one of those handheld blue tanks of gas with the torch on the end. i dont know what they're called. will that work? i've tried beating on it also, but i just cant get it to budge. i really dont want to go buy or rent a tie rod puller.

thanks.

[TheBoogieman]

Propane tank.That will work.I stuck a board against mine and popped it loose.

[BloodThirsty]

I had to use an arm puller. Go do the free rental thing at Advance.

[PurpleTJ]

Originally Posted by TheBoogieman

Propane tank.That will work.I stuck a board against mine and popped it loose.

i just really dont feel like throwing fire under there is a very good idea. wouldnt that weaken the drag link or something? also, could you elaborate on your board method?

[blackTJosh]

i took mine off the other day to replace my drag link the bfh tool works quite well

[TheBoogieman]

Originally Posted by Okemos98TJ

i just really dont feel like throwing fire under there is a very good idea. wouldnt that weaken the drag link or something? also, could you elaborate on your board method?

It won't hurt a thing.That's what a shop will do with a welding torch.I wedged a thin board or weight bar between the stabilizer and drag link and pushed down to pop it loose.

[PurpleTJ]

thanks boogie. i'll go try both of those methods.

[biffgnar]

Originally Posted by BloodThirsty

I had to use an arm puller. Go do the free rental thing at Advance.

X2 on using pitman arm puller. Took about 10 seconds with that when I did mine.

[PurpleTJ]

ok now i have a real problem. my brother, while i was posting here, went pounding on the bottom of the bolt, creating a 'lip', in other words, its a bit thicker at the very bottom now. i cant get the old nut back on, and it most likely wont come out through the hole. i think im going to have to grind it down, and hope i can eventually get it out. i dont have to re-use that bolt, do i?

[BloodThirsty]

Originally Posted by Okemos98TJ

ok now i have a real problem. my brother, while i was posting here, went pounding on the bottom of the bolt, creating a 'lip', in other words, its a bit thicker at the very bottom now. i cant get the old nut back on, and it most likely wont come out through the hole. i think im going to have to grind it down, and hope i can eventually get it out. i dont have to re-use that bolt, do i?

ummmm the bolt on the pass side is reused.


I would go get the arm puller and then if you can just SLIGHTLY grind down the very end of the bolt. Or take that one and get a replacement.

[biffgnar]

Originally Posted by Okemos98TJ

ok now i have a real problem. my brother, while i was posting here, went pounding on the bottom of the bolt, creating a 'lip', in other words, its a bit thicker at the very bottom now. i cant get the old nut back on, and it most likely wont come out through the hole. i think im going to have to grind it down, and hope i can eventually get it out. i dont have to re-use that bolt, do i?

On mine (Tera) I had to reuse hardware on axle end, but had new hardware on the tapered end.

[PurpleTJ]

thank god. i think thats the deal with mine too, but i couldnt focus enough on the directions to figure that out.

[badtux]

I used a tie-rod end remover to remove the tapered bolt on the driver's side. It just works -- popped right out. I recommend buying one, they're not all that expensive from Cheap Chinese Tool Store (i.e. Harbor Freight) and useful not only for that bolt, but for the tie rod ends too (duh) which you will have to replace fairly often if you really offroad the Jeep. Once you get a bit of rust and corrosion in there, the BFH (Big Friggin' Hammer) method doesn't work nearly as well. As for the passenger side, a couple of hits from a rubber deadblow hammer usually gets that out of the way.

If you are going to pound on a bolt with a non-rubber hammer, leave the nut on the end with the bolt slightly recessed within the nut. This will prevent mushrooming the end of the bolt and will also prevent the bolt from flying across the garage and injuring spouses and small children once it lets go, too . If it's a castelated nut i.e. one with slots for a cotter pin, replace it with an equivalent non-castelated nut first of course...

[elephantrider]

i had to soak the taper pin with pb blaster. soaked
it really well. gave it an hour, went and hit it with
a hammer and it popped right outta there.

good luck

[PurpleTJ]

Originally Posted by badtux

I used a tie-rod end remover to remove the tapered bolt on the driver's side. It just works -- popped right out. I recommend buying one, they're not all that expensive from Cheap Chinese Tool Store (i.e. Harbor Freight) and useful not only for that bolt, but for the tie rod ends too (duh) which you will have to replace fairly often if you really offroad the Jeep. Once you get a bit of rust and corrosion in there, the BFH (Big Friggin' Hammer) method doesn't work nearly as well. As for the passenger side, a couple of hits from a rubber deadblow hammer usually gets that out of the way.

If you are going to pound on a bolt with a non-rubber hammer, leave the nut on the end with the bolt slightly recessed within the nut. This will prevent mushrooming the end of the bolt and will also prevent the bolt from flying across the garage and injuring spouses and small children once it lets go, too . If it's a castelated nut i.e. one with slots for a cotter pin, replace it with an equivalent non-castelated nut first of course...

ya, i think im going to go get a tie rod puller now. the bolt already has mushroomed, im going to have to grind it back down. and yes, i will replace the castelated with a non castelated, which came with the new SS.

thanks for all the help