Removing the NSG370 Transmission/ Clutch/ Flywheel on a TJ (2006) -
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post #1 of 12 Old 08-23-2013, 01:58 AM Thread Starter
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Removing the NSG370 Transmission/ Clutch/ Flywheel on a TJ (2006)


About a month ago, it was finally time to replace my noisy throwout and pilot bearings in my 2006 TJ. Upon searching the web for possible guides on removing the Jeep's 6-speed, I could not find any one thread that shed alot of light on the procedure. So, while I kind of guessed through the process, I snapped alot of photos so that others could learn from my experience and possibly use it to help with their own. This thread will include the removal and reinstallation of the NSG-370 6 speed transmission, flywheel, clutch assembly, throwout bearing, realease lever, release lever pivot, and pilot bearing. Hopefully, this thread will help you guys who are considering doing the job yourselves!

A special note to read before continuing:

I am in no way a qualified mechanic. I am however comfortable with complex mechanical procedures (replacing a head gasket or differential regears). Even so, I advise to everyone reading the thread that all of the procedures used be taken lightly. I do not recommend anybody who is not comfortable with such procedures attempt the following. The transmission/ transfer case are heavy, expensive, and can be hard to remove. Using some of the methods described by myself in this thread can lead to damage of both the vehicle or yourself. Anyone who will be using this thread as a guide acknowledges that the author is not responsible for any injury or damage that results from performing the procedure. Be careful, go slow, and exercise patience.

Specs on the Jeep that may relate to the procedure:

-Daystar polyurethane transmission mount
-stock skid plate/ .5" skid plate spacer
-Currie (no lift) polyurethane motor mounts
-Advanced Adapters Transfer case linkage relocation bracket
-3" lift+ 31's during procedure

Alright lets begin,

-First thing I did was shoot all of the bolts connecting the engine block, transmission, and dust cover with WD-40. This was allowed to soak for 3-4 hours before proceeding.

-Next, I disconnected the (-) Negative terminal on the battery and placed all four corners of the Jeep on jack stands. I made sure to place the jack stands on the axle tubes as close to the spring perches as possible.

I use socks to cover the top of my jack stands as I don't like the idea of metal on metal contacts supporting the entire weight of the Jeep for long hours.

It is important to determine how high you will need to elevate the Jeep before you begin any other procedure. I planned to pull the transmission out from underneath mine, so I had to raise it a considerable amount. Even while resting on a low profile creeper (about 2.5"-3" off the ground from the bottom of the transmission) the transmission's shift tower still ended up being about 21" tall.

This must be able to clear the bottom of the frame rails if you plan on removing the tranny from under the vehicle. It will be even taller if you roll the transmission out while on a floor jack mounted transmission adapter (with mine it was approx. 32" tall ). However, if you are fine with leaving the transmission under the vehicle while you work, you could probably get away with leaving the bottom of the frame rails at 20". Just make sure to measure a few times before going on!

-OPTIONAL: I removed the driver's side fender, as well as the exhaust downpipe/cats/muffler. This was done as I was also working on the engine side of things, so it is not required. However, dropping the exhaust did make working on the transmission much easier (gives you a lot more room to work). I suppose you could remove the transmission with the downpipe in place, but it seems like it may cause clearance issues down the line.

-Shift the transmission into neutral then remove the shifter from inside the Jeep. The shift boot connects to the center console by 4 plastic clips near it's corners, and must be removed first. This was done by using a flathead screwdriver to pry it up and free. Be careful, as the plastic tends to bend easily. With the shift boot pulled up and out of the way (still on the shifter however) you can pull the rubber cover from the shift lever bushing. This will exposed a bolt that connects the shift lever to the shift tower on the transmission (see photo).

-I used a T-45 star bit to remove it. Then I simply pulled the shift lever from the shift stub, with the shift boot still attached to it.

-The next thing I did was unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission bellhousing (driver's side). It is only secured by two nuts. Once free, I simply zip tied it to the fuel lines to make sure it was out of the way.

-Remove the starter from the passenger side of the transmission bellhousing

-Remove the rear drive shaft making sure to make alignment marks to maintain itís balance on installation.

-Unbolt the 4 nuts on the bottom of the skid plate securing the transmission bushing to the skid plate. As you may have noticed already, your going to have a lot of nuts/ bolts laying around as you take things apart. I highly recommend you organize these so none are lost or misused during installation.

-I then supported the transmission in front of the skid plate using an OEM bottle jack out of a late model Toyota Tacoma. Since the Jeep was raised so high on the jack stands, I had to stack some bricks underneath for it to reach. Bricks have a tendency to crack under jacks so I used layers of old shirts in an attempt to more evenly distribute the weight. Worked out perfectly with no cracked bricks!

*On a special side note here: I honestly recommend you all get one of these for your bottle jack needs. It blows the one that came with the Jeep out of the water in terms of smoothness and lifting range! Plus is has what appears to be a polyurethane tip so as not to mare up the metal it contacts. Best payment I've ever received for doing an oil change

-After the transmission has been supported, I unbolted the skid plate. As many of you know it can be kind of heavy depending of which one you're running. Using a floor jack to lower it makes it much easier than trying to awkwardly bench the thing when your by yourself.

-With the skid plate out of the way, I removed the front driveshaft unbolting the 4 bolts at each end to remove it completely. I then removed the transmission bushing, as it created a clearance issue with my transmission jack setup. It is held in place by 4 nuts, shown circled in red (looking from rear to front of vehicle). If you left your exhaust downpipe on the vehicle, you would also have to remove the nuts circled in blue, as that bracket supports the downpipe at it's rear. I left mine in place as my exhaust was removed earlier.

-I then made sure the transfer case was in 4-HI and disconnected my transfer case linkage at the transfer case shifter. This was done by soaking the bushing in WD-40 and using a pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze the bushing out from the shifter. The linkage end/bushing circled in blue was inserted into the end of the transfer case which is pointed to in green. I have a linkage relocation bracket to isolate my linkage from the tub. If you do not, and have the stock linkage bracket, (which mounts to the tub and would be in the area circled in red) I assume that must also be removed.

-At this point the only things connecting the transmission to the rest of the Jeep should be the engine, wiring harness, and breather tube. Once this is confirmed, position a transmission jack of some sort under the transmission bracket (or where it used to bolt up). I had used a P.O.S. transmission adapter for a floor jack. The problem I ran into was how high the adapter was, but this will be addressed.

In this picture, I had positioned the jack too far forward, as I figured out when the entire thing tried to take a dive backwards (that's why you strap/ chain the transmission to the jack). When I do this again, I will be positioning the jack a few more inches towards the transfer case...

-Once the transmission jack was under the transmission, I raised it enough to relieve the support jack (That Tacoma bottle jack I used). Then I threw a ratchet strap over the top of the tranny and connected each end to the sides of the tranny adapter and tightened the whole thing up. This will help hold the transmission onto the jack just in case it is misbalanced to prevent your tranny from falling a few feet onto your garage floor. So make sure you strap it down!! Just be sure to run the straps underneath the wiring harness so that this can be easily removed later.

-With the tranny jack now supporting, I removed the bottle jack.

-I lowered the floorjack/ tranny jack until the transmission had moved about 10-15 degrees downward to expose the wiring harness that runs across the top on the transmission.

-I disconnected the CPS sensor's electrical connector, then removed it from the bellhousing (1 bolt). After this I removed all the electrical connectors, the breather tube, and the wire harness mounts from the transmission.

Referring to the picture above: The electrical connections are circled in red with the CPS at the front, the wire harness mounts are circled in yellow, and the breather tube connection is in blue

-Now came the time to unbolt the transmission from the engine block. Before doing so, it's very important to make sure that the transmission is secured to the jack by either a safety chain or strap over the top. If not, it can topple over off of the jack once unbolted, possibly resulting in damage or injury. The transmission is secured to the block by two E12 torx bolts on top, and 2 16mm bolts on the sides. The dust cover or inspection plate must also be unbolted from the transmission, as it is a one piece design on the 6 speed that cannot be removed until the flywheel is taken off.

-To access the two E12 bolts, I lowered the transfer case end of the transmission as much as I could (ended up being something like 25-30 degrees). Be careful here not to tear the rubber grommet that surrounds the shift stub as it is pulled out.

-The bolt on the driver's side was accessed using 9" of straight extensions

-The passenger's side bolt was accessed using 2 ft of straight extensions

These top bolts came out easily for me, most likely because I had soaked each in WD-40 before I even started. However, they were replaced with hex head bolts at installation in order to reduce the possibility of stripping the heads in the future.

-With the top two E12's removed, I jacked the transmission back up a little to about 10 degrees. Then using a 16mm socket, removed the last two bolts securing the engine block to the bellhousing (their position circled in red in the following picture).

-I removed the screws/ bolts securing the dust cover to the bellhousing (circled in green on above picture).

-Now, the transmission is completely unbolted from the engine, and the wiring
harness has been disconnected. Once again, I lowered the tranny to a moderate angle, this time slowly pulling the transmission towards the rear of the Jeep. Once the guide pins were cleared, I raised the transmission up to nearly parallel to the ground, and pulled it out the rest of the way until the input shaft was clear of the pressure plate.

Next came the annoying part... upon lowering the transmission to the bottom of the jack's lifting range, I discovered that the shift tower would not clear the bottom of my frame rails . Even at the bottom of the lift range, the adapter was so tall that the jack was still a good 15 inches above the ground. In order to get the transmission out from underneath the Jeep, I determined I would lower the tranny onto a creeper (you do not need to do this to access the flywheel, throwout bearing, and clutch). If you have someone to help you, I'm sure the transmission could be lifted from the jack onto the creeper, but I was by myself and that thing is pretty heavy. So, I used a pair of ratchet straps to slowly work the transmission down to the creeper's height. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PROCESS TO ANYONE. Although it did work without damaging my transmission, there is a large possibility of damage or injury that could result from this.

-With the transmission at the lowest height my jack would allow, I ran a ratchet strap underneath each end of the transmission/ transfer case.

-These photos showed what the setup looked like once it reached the height of the creeper. Beginning at the rear, it was done by keeping one end tightened, then loosening the opposite while supporting that end's weight by hand (as the ratchet strap no longer does once it has been loosened). Then I would lower it by hand about 5 inches, and re-tighten the strap to support that end at the new lower height. The process was repeated at the opposite end, and this continued until the entire assembly rested onto the creeper. This worked as the end that had the tight strap was carrying a lot of the transmission's weight as the opposite end was lowered by hand. Once again, don't try it. I'm only documenting it to show how I got the transmission from adapter height down to the creeper height.

-When I pulled the transmission out from underneath the Jeep, I removed the release lever retaining clip that holds the release lever to the release lever pivot (on the passenger side inside the bellhousing). This allowed me to remove the release lever and throwout bearing.

Retaining clip seen on left side of release lever

-Using a 19mm deepwell socket I uninstalled the old pivot

-I proceeded to clean and degrease the transmission while I had it out, making sure to seal off the electrical connectors and breather tube beforehand.

-Once dried, I installed the new pivot for the release lever. In the picture I am demonstrating how the retaining clip attaches to the pivot behind the release lever.

-Next I removed the old throwout bearing, cleaned the release lever, and installed my new bearing. I went with a National throwout bearing after reading good reviews on it, and it's worked well so far. The throwout bearing has two springs that hold it on the release lever. To attach them, just angle the bearing into the lever as shown in the photo below, then use a flathead screwdriver to pull the end of the spring over the lever. Do this to each side and the bearing will be secured. Be sure to apply high temperature grease to the spots where the bearing contacts the release lever!

-With the throwout bearing on the release lever, I applied high temperature grease to the release pivot, the input shaft splines, the machined surface of the throwout bearing, and on the input shaft where the throwout bearing would slide. Then I made sure my release lever was lined up correctly (using the throwout bearing as reference it is longer on one side than the other) and slid the assembly back onto the input shaft. Reattach the lever to the pivot using the new retaining clip

-Now back to the clutch and flywheel, I supported the clutch disc using the clutch alignment tool before unbolting anything. Be sure to use gloves and avoid spraying the clutch dust into the air, it's bad stuff to breathe.

-With the clutch disc supported, I used a cheater pipe rammed between my flywheel's ring gear and my frame to keep the assembly from turning as I loosened the bolts. The yellow refers to the position of the pipe as I was uninstalling everything (The red pipe is in position for when tightening the bolts)

-Make sure to mark the clutch and flywheel somehow to ensure they are installed in the same alignment in order to maintain their balance.

-With the assembly secured by the cheater pipe, I began to loosen the 6 13mm bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. I went in a criss-cross pattern only turning each bolt a 1/4 turn at a time because the pressure plate is under pressure (it's a big spring) and can warp if the bolts are removed unevenly. Once I felt all the spring pressure was released, I removed all but one bolt at the top. This last bolt was removed once I had a good hold on the pressure plate, as once it's all unbolted, the pressure plate will want to just fall off. With pressure plate out of the way the clutch disc was also pulled off with the clutch alignment tool. Inspect the rivets on the clutch disc. These should not protrude above the friction material, and if they do can damage your pressure plate and flywheel. If your pressure plate shows grooving or marks from rivets grinding onto it, it will need to be replaced. The same goes for the surface of the flywheel (although if minor, machining might be able to be used). Iím not replacing my clutch disc at this time because it has a good layer of material left above the height of the rivets, but if youíve already got it out, you may as well replace it if you donít plan on taking everything apart any time soon (I am).

-Now the flywheel should be all that's left. It's not required to remove the flywheel if you're replacing the pilot bearing or only replacing the clutch, you can leave the flywheel on if the surface looks good. It's nice to get it resurfaced, but that was money I didn't want to spend. I ended up sanding mine down for about 10 minutes with some 150 grit and called it good.

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post #2 of 12 Old 08-23-2013, 01:59 AM Thread Starter
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There are only 3 bolts holding the flywheel in this photo, normally there are 6. This was taken when I was reinstalling mine.

-6 bolts hold the flywheel to the crankshaft. They are torqued to 105 ft-lb so they may give a little fight, mine sure did. Unbolt them in a criss-cross pattern slowly like the pressure plate. Once they are off you can pull the flywheel off the end of the crankshaft.

This photo shows what the back of my engine block and crankshaft look like once everything was removed and cleaned.

-The pilot bearing should also be replaced when you're doing your clutch. I attempted the hydraulic method using grease, but it wasn't working. So after a trip to the auto store I rented a slide hammer and pilot bearing puller. These made quick work of the bearing.


-With the old bearing out, I used a socket of appropriate diameter to evenly hammer in my new bearing. Make sure you leave the bearing seal facing the transmission!!

Now it was finally time to put everything back!!

-If the dust cover was removed with the flywheel, make sure to reinstall the dust cover before the flywheel

-Using the cheater pipe in position for tightening the bolts (refer to picture) I Installed the flywheel torquing the bolts in a criss cross pattern in three increment. Moving from 40 ft/lb to 70ft/lb and finally to 105 ft/lb.

-Before reinstalling the clutch, I made sure the flywheel and pressure plate were free of contaminants by whipping them down with some acetone. Also, some clutch discs have a ďflywheelĒ side that is supposed to face the flywheel. Mine was marked (Sachs clutch).

-I inserted the clutch alignment and made sure it was fully seated into the pilot bearing to make sure the clutch disc was centered. Then the pressure plate was placed over the clutch disc, making sure the marks made earlier to align the flywheel and pressure plate lined up. Normally I would have replaced the clutch and flywheel bolts upon removing them, however I plan to replace my clutch all together in about 10,000 more miles, so mine will be done then. Just as when it was removed, I used a criss cross pattern and ľ turn increments to torque the pressure plate bolts. These were tightened to 40 ft/lbs.

The completed clutch assembly.

-With the flywheel, clutch disc, and pressure plate all torqued properly, I prepped for the reinstallation of the transmission.

-The guide pins on the engine block were coated in anti-seize before installation to aid in removal for next time

-The transmission was rolled back under the Jeep, and the same sketchy method of using ratchet straps was used to get the tranny back to the jackís minimum height.

-I measured the angle of the bottom of my oil pan and aligned the transmission so that itís bottom seam had the same angle (this was the way it lined up upon removal)

-With both engine and transmission at equal angles, I maneuvered the input shaft into the splines of the clutch disc. Slowly rotating the output shaft at the transfer case helped to line up the input shaft with the clutch during this process. The transmission was further moved into the engine block until the two guide pins were aligned. I ended up replacing my E12 bolts with hex flange-head grade 8 3/8Ēx16x1.75Ē bolts, they were a perfect fit and very easy to use. The transmission was bolted to the engine block to 27ft/lbs at all four bolts. Make sure to include the tabs that hold the breather tube and wire harness when inserting the top two bolts. I couldnít find a torque value for the sheet metal screws and the bolts that secure the transmission to dust cover, so I just made them tight.

-With the transmission bolted up, I angled it down once again to reattach all the connectors, the breather tube, the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), and the wiring harness.

-Next the shift stub had to be inserted into the opening in the center consoleís rubber grommet, being careful once again not to damage the grommet.

-After this, the transmission was ready to return to itís final resting height, mine sits pretty close to parallel to the ground (measured along the bottom seam). With the transmission raised using the floor jack, I whipped out the trusty bottle jack and brick setup to support the tranny/tranfer case as I installed the transmission bushing and removed the transmission jack.

-The bushing was bolted back onto the transmission bracket using itís 4 bolts

-The transfer case linkage was reattached using a pair of channel lock pliers to squeeze the bushings in. Itís probably a good idea to replace all the linkage bushings while your working on the transmission if you havenít recently.

-At this time I drained both the transfer case and transmission of fluid and refilled them. A note for next time would be to do drain each before removing them. Refilling the fluids on the ground would be a lot easier. I fill each until fluid begins to pour from the fill hole, using Valvoline ATF+4 full synthetic in the TC and Pennzoil Synchromesh Manual transmission fluid in the tranny.

-Before reinstalling the skid plate, the slave cylinder was bolted to the bell housing at 18ft/lbs. using the original mount nuts. Then, the front driveshaft was installed using new bolts and u straps at the pinion.

-The skid plate was raised up to the transmission, and aligned so that the transmission bushing studs fit through the four slots found in the middle of the skid plate. I torqued my skid-frame bolts to 55 ft/lb, but that may vary depending on your setup. After the skid was secured, I tightened the four nuts and washers that hold the transmission bushing to the skid plate.

-The starter was reinstalled into the passenger side of the bell housing and torqued to 33 ft/lb

-The rear drive shaft was installed using new bolts and u straps, as well as a new coating of grease on the output shaft splines

-At this time, the exhaust and driverís side fender were reinstalled as the exhaust becomes hard to maneuver once the vehicle was lowered to ride height.

-I lowered the Jeep from the jack stands, reattached the negative terminal at the battery, and gave myself a pat on the back.

Now for some random photos that may be of help to some:

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post #3 of 12 Old 08-23-2013, 07:34 AM
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With only 10K more to go, you should have gone ahead and replaced your clutch.
I would get a Novak T/C kit for the next time. Also how many miles on your rig?

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-23-2013, 09:29 AM
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Thanks for the awesome writeup and pics, I'm sure I'll need it before long
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-23-2013, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Zeep View Post
With only 10K more to go, you should have gone ahead and replaced your clutch.
I would get a Novak T/C kit for the next time. Also how many miles on your rig?
I don't mind tearing it down again And it's got 55,000 miles.
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-23-2013, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ops5 View Post

Thanks for the awesome writeup and pics, I'm sure I'll need it before long
Thanks for reading!
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post #7 of 12 Old 08-23-2013, 02:52 PM
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Hopefully, I'll never need this. But if I do, thanks!
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-17-2013, 06:15 AM
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X, marked for reference. I did not know the top 2 bolts were E12 on the NSG370, good to know before I do my clutch in my 06.

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post #9 of 12 Old 11-17-2013, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by CaposgrayTJ View Post
I don't mind tearing it down again And it's got 55,000 miles.
Nice job on the write-up, I know that easily doubles the amount of time that it takes to do the work. For future reference, it's far easier to drop the t-case off and not have to deal with them as an assembly.

There is no damage that will occur from any metal on metal contact after the initial contact in this application. If it works for 1 second, it will work for 1 year.

The only other thing is to pay attention to the fan shroud. Depending on motor height when you start, tilting the back of the engine down can crack the shroud when the blade runs into it.

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post #10 of 12 Old 11-21-2013, 07:50 PM
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Good write up. When I did mine I left the driveshafts and transfer case bolted on the transmission as a unit. Much faster and really doesn't make it any harder. I also had a lift and a transmission jack at my disposal though. Good job.

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post #11 of 12 Old 04-17-2014, 12:08 PM
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I want to thank you for your posting... Great job! I just finished replacing my clutch. I do wish I would have purchased a heavy duty clutch plate. The clutch pedal is just like it was when new, car-like. :-(

Your procedure made it much easier but I agree with mrblaine... I took my transfer case off... much easier to manage the lowering of the transmission. The transmission jack I used was purchased at Harbor Freight, it's called a Pittsburg 450LB low lift transmission jack. It handled the transmission perfectly.... cost me $78. The sad part is I bought this same jack 5 years ago... but I couldn't find it. Grrrrr Who did I let borrow it from me???????
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post #12 of 12 Old 12-14-2014, 09:21 PM
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Did you replace the sealant on top of transmission, between the two E12 bolts? What type did you use? Thanks for the write-up its been very helpful.
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clutch , engine , throw out bearing , transfer case , transmission

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