[rondak46]

Originally Posted by George Dickel

Not only will you need to remove the radiator but EVERYTHING else from the front of the block. This will include your crankshaft pulley and the timing chain sprockets from both the cam and the crank. Honestly, if you think it would be a good idea to change the timing chain, you should go ahead and rebuild the motor while you're there. Otherwise, I would save up, plan it out and then rebuild. Obviously this is not something you would do unless you either really had to or because you wanted to Stroke your motor. The latter is what I did. If you're still hell-bent on changing the timing chain, figure on a serious set of tools, some pullers, a really good manual, and lots of time (unless you're really experienced). This is the 2 cents from someone who's done the task.

Dealing with the AC condensor and radiator are not something I am looking forward to, so that was the purpose of the post. After reading some responses and doing more research there are some "while your in there you might as well...." type considerations. A poster above says it can be done in 4 hours. I would count on needing more time than that myself. But I do believe there is performance and reliability to be gained by doing the change at this point. After 9 years and 150k, I think a water pump and TC set swap is a worthwhile pre-emptive venture.

[cuder]

Look at some of rondak46's other posts. I think he is just pulling on some chains, because he is bored.

[rondak46]

Originally Posted by cuder

Look at some of rondak46's other posts. I think he is just pulling on some chains, because he is bored.

Thanks Cuder.

To be sure, I will throw the symptom I am concerned about out there.

I have 4:56 gears and 35 inch tires. When I am going up hills on roads and highways, and I start losing power due to the incline, and if I do not downshift soon enough, I get a massive sneeze from the engine. It seems to be happening before I think it should happen, and I am not sure it should happen after all.

So any input regarding that would be helpful.

cheers, Mike

[George Dickel]

Originally Posted by rondak46

Dealing with the AC condensor and radiator are not something I am looking forward to, so that was the purpose of the post. After reading some responses and doing more research there are some "while your in there you might as well...." type considerations. A poster above says it can be done in 4 hours. I would count on needing more time than that myself. But I do believe there is performance and reliability to be gained by doing the change at this point. After 9 years and 150k, I think a water pump and TC set swap is a worthwhile pre-emptive venture.

I get your logic but on stuff like this, if I'm going "in", I'm going all the way. The condensor can stay I would think. I never pulled mine when pulling the motor. It's far enough forward. You sound like you have some experience so have some fun.

[George Dickel]

Originally Posted by rondak46

Thanks Cuder.

To be sure, I will throw the symptom I am concerned about out there.

I have 4:56 gears and 35 inch tires. When I am going up hills, and I start losing power due to the incline, and if I do not downshift at the right time, I get a massive sneeze from the engine. It seems to be happening before I think it should happen, and I am not sure it should happen after all.

So any input regarding that would be helpful.

cheers, Mike

Great, a perfect opportunity to STROKE IT!

[rondak46]

Originally Posted by George Dickel

I get your logic but on stuff like this, if I'm going "in", I'm going all the way. The condensor can stay I would think. I never pulled mine when pulling the motor. It's far enough forward. You sound like you have some experience so have some fun.

Thanks, that is what I am looking for. I really apreciate the advice and I am not pulling anyones chain.

cheers, Mike

[Zew]

Oh no... here goes the stroker topic again

[sdowney717]

timing chain check for looseness
simple just pull distributer cap off, turn engine a little forward and watch rotor turn, then

turn the engine the other way and the rotor should immediately turn back. If it does then the chain is tight.

[rondak46]

Originally Posted by sdowney717

timing chain check for looseness
simple just pull distributer cap off, turn engine a little forward and watch rotor turn, then

turn the engine the other way and the rotor should immediately turn back. If it does then the chain is tight.

Excellent, Thanks! Do you think this test will be the same or similar given that I have a CPS and not a Distributor?

[Zew]

yah... cuz you can't see the cps turn.

[GOLENJEEPTJ]

You could remove the CPS and watch the pulse ring move though.Same as watching the rotor.

[incredibull]

Isn't this supposed to be a non-issue on any chain-timed motor that has a tensioner? I can see a problem if the chain only passes through guides, but an automatic adjusting tensioner should keep the chain from ever jumping a tooth.

Honest question here. My dad and I have had some high mileage trucks over the years and never had to replace a timing chain myself on any engine that had one. The only time I can imagine replacing one is complete failure, or jumping time on an engine without a chain tensioner.

[Jerry Bransford]

Personally I think the idea to replace the timing chain that early for "performance reasons" is pretty silly. Timing chains are well known to be fine, with rare exception, to at least when the engine needs overhauling. The timing chain tensioner pretty well makes any possible minor chain stretch a non-issue. The chain even numping a tooth on the 4.0L is rare enough that it is pretty much a non-issue. To me, all this is much-ado about nothing.

[rondak46]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

Personally I think the idea to replace the timing chain that early for "performance reasons" is pretty silly. Timing chains are well known to be fine, with rare exception, to at least when the engine needs overhauling. The timing chain tensioner pretty well makes any possible minor chain stretch a non-issue. The chain even numping a tooth on the 4.0L is rare enough that it is pretty much a non-issue. To me, all this is much-ado about nothing.

Yeah, I saw your post (number three); your post directing folks to post number three; and now this one. I wasn't asking if you thought it might be a good idea if I replaced my timng chain. I am trying to believe that you are trying to be helpful but I am losing in that effort. Perhaps you can help with post #18.

cheers,

[Jerry Bransford]

All I can say is that you aren't required to like the opinions offered here on JF. You may get advice and/or opinions you didn't ask for, it happens to me too. That you don't happen to like the opinion I offered is fine with me.