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#1 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 365
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Remove radiator to change Water pump, Timing chain?
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#2 |
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Mechanically Declined
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 272
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Yes, you would have to remove the radiator. But why do you replacing the timing chain? If it ain't broke, I wouldn't touch it.
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99 TJ Sport I64L Manual 31x10.5 1"BL 3.73 gears w/LockRite in front. Warrior Safari Rack. The rest is stock. "When you honestly believe you can compensate for lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there's no end to what you can't do". www.despair.com |_ |T| |
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#3 |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California
Posts: 46,451
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Don't confuse the Jeep's heavy steel timing chain with the rubber timing belt used by most cars. While a rubber timing belt needs to be replaced at 60-80K miles, the Jeep's timing chain isn't touched until the engine requires a complete overhaul. That doesn't even start to be a common thing until at least 250K miles on a properly maintaned engine.
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Wichita,KS
Posts: 194
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x2 on the radiator removal , and if your over 80k on the engine a chain may not be a bad idea. and yes , do the pump while your there.
You should be able to ge r done on a saturday morning if you have some mechanical ability. I'm guessing about 4 hours if all goes well, including drytime for the RTV.
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____________________________________________ ERIC 06 RUBICON+ SOME STUFF I MADE It's all fun and games till some guy parks his Jeep on top of your Honda. |
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#5 | |
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Do it right or not at all
![]() Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Escondido, California
Posts: 46,451
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 532
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I recently replaced the timing chain on the 4.0 i yanked out of my 1998 TJ. I re-used the 4.0 engine in a 1998 GC i bought off of craigslist for super cheap. I had the head re-done, replaced the oil pump, and did the timing chain. Mine was suprisingly lose. It only had 186k on it. Runs like a champ now. No more misfires like when I had it in my TJ. I guess it all depends on maintenance. I was the 2nd owner of my TJ so i have no idea how well the guy took care of it.
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My V8 swap thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/my-5-2-v8-swap-618350/ |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 365
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With 150K plus miles on the timing chain I think it would be a good idea to replace it. With that kind of mileage there has to be some stretching going on and I don't want it to mess up valve timing. That is why I am doing it. The water pump is a "while I am in there" kind of thing.
Thanks for the advice all. |
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#8 | |
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Restoration Complete
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 518
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Quote:
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'98 Wrangler Sport, 4.6L Stroker 12 Counterweight 258 Crank (cut snout-casting #3214723), Sealed Power +.030 Hypereutectic Pistons, CompCams 68-231-4, Ported/Polished Head, Edelbrock Header, 24# Venom Injectors, 63mm bored OEM Throttle Body, Port matched Intake, Autolite Platinum plugs, Screamin' Demon Coil, LiveWires Distributor & Wires, Centerforce Clutch, Hurst Shifter, modified Mustang GT Air Cannister - CAI, 18" Magnaflow and 2 1/2" exhaust. Balanced Rotating Assembly '04 Mustang GT, 4.6L Light modifications Read more, Post less, Search often |
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#9 | |
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Restoration Complete
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 518
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Quote:
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'98 Wrangler Sport, 4.6L Stroker 12 Counterweight 258 Crank (cut snout-casting #3214723), Sealed Power +.030 Hypereutectic Pistons, CompCams 68-231-4, Ported/Polished Head, Edelbrock Header, 24# Venom Injectors, 63mm bored OEM Throttle Body, Port matched Intake, Autolite Platinum plugs, Screamin' Demon Coil, LiveWires Distributor & Wires, Centerforce Clutch, Hurst Shifter, modified Mustang GT Air Cannister - CAI, 18" Magnaflow and 2 1/2" exhaust. Balanced Rotating Assembly '04 Mustang GT, 4.6L Light modifications Read more, Post less, Search often |
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#10 |
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Running Amok!
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ventura ,CA.
Posts: 6,230
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Wait on your timing change, till your ready to do the engine complete!There's no need if all is fine now!It's like Jerry and George said above.
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#11 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Colorado
Posts: 12,084
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Quote:
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Useful Write-Ups: SEARCH TUTORIAL Off-Road Tips and Techniques TJ Tech BOOT CAMP FAQ: Cold Air Intakes & K&N's What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? So you want a Tummy Tuck? Lug nuts and bolt patterns Catalytic Converters Busted TJ Track Bar Bolt Fix Knuckle Brake Groove Repair Coconut Oil for Drilling and Machining Fabrication & Build: My Build Thread Funny: Will it fit in my Jeep? |
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#12 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 365
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Quote:
You have NEVER heard of changing a timing set outside of a rebuild? That surprises me. They do get loose after a while and can cause valves to be open or closed when they are not supposed to. To be sure, I replace stuff premptively, and I would say that changing a 4.0 TC set out after 130k is not unreasonable. The problems caused by loose TC set can cause major perfomance and mechanical issues. I want the next 100k on my 4.0 to be a hearty run, not a downhill slide. |
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 365
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Cheers, Mike |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 532
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Changing the timing chain isn't really that big of a deal. The only thing that sucks about doing it is that the oil pan rests on the timing chain cover, so you have to use the replacement section of the gasket supplied unless you decide to replace the whole oil pan gasket. That's really the worst part of it.
Serious set of tools... not really. You buy an el cheapo harmonic balancer puller/installer from the auto parts store, hell... even rent one... and all you need besides that is regular standard and metric sockets.
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My V8 swap thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=618350 |
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#15 | |
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Restoration Complete
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Posts: 518
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Quote:
__________________
'98 Wrangler Sport, 4.6L Stroker 12 Counterweight 258 Crank (cut snout-casting #3214723), Sealed Power +.030 Hypereutectic Pistons, CompCams 68-231-4, Ported/Polished Head, Edelbrock Header, 24# Venom Injectors, 63mm bored OEM Throttle Body, Port matched Intake, Autolite Platinum plugs, Screamin' Demon Coil, LiveWires Distributor & Wires, Centerforce Clutch, Hurst Shifter, modified Mustang GT Air Cannister - CAI, 18" Magnaflow and 2 1/2" exhaust. Balanced Rotating Assembly '04 Mustang GT, 4.6L Light modifications Read more, Post less, Search often |
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