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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:14 PM   #1
flatlander757
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Regearing of Jake92321's TJ D44

So, as promised in the "Regearing for Novices" thread... here is a bit of a write-up for you guys to get an idea of how involved a regearing process is. It will not be 100% complete in each and every thing you need to do... I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that you guys know lefty loosey righty tighty for the pinion nut, and are competent enough to remove a pinion yoke.

I WILL be trying to document the actual gear "setup" process itself in the (likely) repetetive guess and check trial and error attempts to get a good pattern and all the numbers in spec.

First off some info:

The TJ D44 does NOT use a crush sleeve... in fact you CAN'T because the solid spacer is incorporated into the pinion. You change pinion bearing preload with shims. This is a GOOD thing because on the trail you can break a u-joint and wipe out your pinion yoke, remove the pinion nut, pull the yoke off, replace it, and simply torque a NEW pinion nut to spec(200ft-lbs). No worry about changing the pinion bearing preload or the nut coming undone on it's own because you had to reuse a crush sleeve(if you use a NEW pinion nut!).

We are installing Yukon 4.88 thick gears(for use w/ a 3 series carrier... same carrier as 3.07, the old ratio) with a Yukon Install Kit. Also using some pre-made carrier setup bearings and an inner pinion bearing setup race. All was purchased from www.completeoffroad.com

Some specs for the D44(According to Mitchell):
-Ring gear bolt torque: 45-60ft lbs - I will be torquing to 55ft lbs
-Pinion nut torque - 200-220ft lbs - I'll be torquing to 200ft lbs
-Pinion bearing preload - 20-40 INCH lbs for NEW pinion bearings. If you need the spec for old pinion bearings, the spec is 10-20 INCH lbs. If you happen to only need to replace one of the two pinion bearings, I would personally just aim for 20-25 IMO.
-Carrier bearing cap torque: 70-90ft lbs - I'll be torquing to 80ft lbs
-Backlash spec - 0.005-0.008" w/ 0.002 max difference between any 2 spots around the ring gear.
-Carrier bearing preload isn't easily measurable, but since I'll be doing this without a case spreader, I will be adding 0.010" total shim under the carrier bearings after the final setup is determined(0.005" on each side).


Onto the write-up

First off, Jake brought the axle over tonight and was kind enough to have already cleaned the hell out of it so there was little grease and gunk anywhere which was awesome.



For starters pull the diff cover and have a look inside. Make sure there are no crazy metal chunks floating around, chipped teeth, anything that could have gotten somewhere it shouldn't be and take out other parts. This mainly goes for those reusing your carrier(much like Jake has chosen to do... it has OEM trac-loc). I have seen a few and heard of many other D35s have destroyed the left side of the housing when the carrier bearings get worn beyond their limits and it's basically a big paperweight after that. A thick metallic jello-like substance is a good indicator of this



Now you mark the bearing caps... these CANNOT be reinstalled any way EXCEPT how they are now! They are machined specific to their original housing and to their specific side in that housing and cannot be flipped on that side or else you are asking for trouble! MARK THEM CLEARLY!!! I do it simple... use a black sharpie and put a big "R" on the right cap and "L" on the left cap. As long as you can keep your alphabet right-side up and you know left from right you'll be okay



Wipe off the bearing surface on the caps and set them aside. You can now remove the carrier. This took a bit of prying on one side, then the other, then back, etc etc... At one point we were both prying on both sides at the same time. The reason for the "carrier bearing preload" is to basically give the differential housing no chance of flexing under heavy loads. The pinion basically wants to push the ring gear to the left side of the housing under loads... without sufficient preload the gear teeth will deflect and you'll have a broken ring and pinion and/or at least be shredding teeth more than likely.

.............

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Last edited by flatlander757; 02-12-2010 at 09:51 PM..
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:28 PM   #2
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Now you should remove the pinion yoke. For the D30/D35/D44 the pinion nut should be 1-1/8. Just hammer it off with an impact. For us, the pinion yoke just slipped right off... you may need/want to use a 2 jaw puller if it's tough to get off.



With the yoke off, you can take the pinion out of the housing. We were lucky and it came out with little effort. You may need to smack the pinion lightly with a deadblow hammer to get it out. If you are concerned about keeping the threads on the pinion nice, put the old pinion nut on a few threads before you smack it to knock it loose, then remove nut and remove pinion. Don't let it fall on the floor(or your feet!)!

There will be a bunch of shims on the pinion that come out with it... these are your pinion bearing preload shims. Just keep them with your old pinion for the time being and set it all aside.

Now comes time to knock out the pinion bearing races from the housing. Using a brass punch, I knocked out the outter pinion bearing first(from inside the housing). Be careful with where you hit it... don't want to hit the housing. A brass punch will keep destruction of stuff to a minimum.



Still going at it... work around the entire race... don't just smack one side. It's a very tight press fit... you won't get it out ****ed sideways.

Forgot to take pics of the inner pinion race removal... but same thing but from the outside in. Only difference is that under this inner pinion race will be some shims. These shims set pinion depth(how deep into the housing that the pinion protrudes). It will affect your gear pattern.

.........
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:48 PM   #3
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Now we're removing the carrier bearings(since we're reusing the carrier... if you are buying a full-case locker or are using a new carrier then you can skip this part).

We first cut off the bearing cage w/ a dremel cutoff tool. Cut the cage off and pull all the rollers out.



Then using the dremel, cut a line across the inner part of the bearing like this:





Be careful not to cut all the way through and into the carrier... you can cut most of the way in, then strike the gap w/ a cold chisel and hammer. This will likely split the bearing and you might be able to slide it off(with the chisel wedged inside). We had to actually cut 2x 180 degrees from each other on both bearings, we couldn't get the thing to split with just one cut. You may need/want to do the same.

You will find that under each bearing there are a bunch of shims... keep them organized when you remove them(know which ones came from left and which ones came from the right sides). This will help you later, especially if reusing the carrier.

Now you can remove the old ring gear... it's pretty straight forward, remove the ring gear bolts. For us the ring gear just came right off... it might give you some trouble that a deadblow hammer could fix



Now you can clean the carrier real well... particularly the ring gear surface. Lots of brake-clean and wiping down w/ a rag works well.



Somehow I forgot to get a pic of reinstalling the new ring gear, but it is on. The ring gear didn't want to go all the way down by just pushing(about 1/8" gap). Know it is not good to use the ring gear bolts to pull the ring gear flush... but we did so carefully. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT! Basically I finger-tightened all the bolts making sure the ring gear was completely square to the carrier the whole time. Then going around the carrier w/ a normal ratchet I only did about 1/2 turn on each bolt in a criss cross pattern(like tightening a wheel). I never had to apply more than maybe 20ft lbs at the most. It was all one handed tightening to snug the ring gear down. We will be torquing the ring gear to spec tomorrow, now is a good time to do it though. Also be sure to use red loctite! We are using what was provided in the Yukon install kit.

Then clean the housing!!! LOTS of brake clean! Wipe it out w/ a rag. Be sure to get any gunk that may be trapped in the pinion bearing oil passages. Pay particular attention to all the bearing race surfaces as well.



And that was when Jake and I decided to call it a night... we cleaned up and got organized to be ready for setting up the gears tomorrow...



You can see all the old parts/shims on the left(on top of a box). I will be measuring the old shims tomorrow to get a starting point.

The new parts are all laid out and labeled on the cardboard on the right. Carrier is obviously on the rag in the center. Rag over housing to keep anything from getting inside.


Stay tuned for tomorrow night
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:50 PM   #4
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Oh this is sweet. Hm, i know who i'm callin if i ever regear
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:58 PM   #5
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Nice writeup so far! Always impressed with your work

I'm building an 8.8, and I was looking around on the best way to remove the pinion bearing, and I supposed bashing it out works best? Do you think it would be better to use a bearing puller maybe? Or just stick to bashing it out, since it's being replaced anyway...
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Unread 02-12-2010, 09:59 PM   #6
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wow man. very nice work. teach me
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Unread 02-12-2010, 10:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Wayne View Post
Nice writeup so far! Always impressed with your work

I'm building an 8.8, and I was looking around on the best way to remove the pinion bearing, and I supposed bashing it out works best? Do you think it would be better to use a bearing puller maybe? Or just stick to bashing it out, since it's being replaced anyway...
Are you regearing it? If so then leave it... pinion won't be reused.

If not and you're just replacing bearings, then a decent bearing removal tool + a 15 ton press should easily do it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 10:06 PM   #8
flatlander757
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When regearing, you'll want a lot of paper and something to write each setup attempt down on... here is my notebook which I've recently been using for all kinds of crap... here is a page from it...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 02-12-2010, 10:06 PM   #9
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I'm gearing it to 4.88 with an ARB. Thing is, after all the grinding, the bearings got all crusty and might as well be replaced.
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97 Tj Sahara, 4" Lift, 33's, 10,000lb Winch.... - SOLD
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Unread 02-13-2010, 02:06 AM   #10
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Wow, great write up so far Tony

I'm looking forward to seeing the whole detailed set-up process
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Unread 02-13-2010, 03:41 AM   #11
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great detail thanks
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Unread 02-13-2010, 07:03 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John_Wayne View Post
I'm gearing it to 4.88 with an ARB. Thing is, after all the grinding, the bearings got all crusty and might as well be replaced.
I don't get what you're asking? There is no grinding needed involving pinion anything if you are regearing and using an install kit.

You take off the pinion nut, smack the pinion through the housing, the outter pinion bearing will be free to fall out too(unless your pinion seal is still in there, otherwise remove it). The pinion comes out with the inner pinion bearing pressed onto it. Depending on the application, there MAY be a baffle under that bearing, but it's likely that it is included in the install kit... The Yukon install kit came with 3 different baffles/slingers. I don't think we'll be needing/using more than one and it isn't under the inner pinion bearing.

Are you talking about the pinion races? You just use a brass punch and knock the races out. I don't know how you'd use a puller for those. Just knock the races out and then clean the housing. There will be brass chunks all over from the punch... this is because it's softer than the races(which is good... it won't damage crap).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 02-13-2010, 09:29 AM   #13
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Unread 02-13-2010, 09:34 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757 View Post
You take off the pinion nut, smack the pinion through the housing, the outter pinion bearing will be free to fall out too(unless your pinion seal is still in there, otherwise remove it).

I'll pass along a tip from a mechanic friend. Instead of hitting the pinion threads, use a drift punch on the center end of the pinion. That way you don't damage the the threads.
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Unread 02-13-2010, 09:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flatlander757 View Post
I don't get what you're asking? There is no grinding needed involving pinion anything if you are regearing and using an install kit.

You take off the pinion nut, smack the pinion through the housing, the outter pinion bearing will be free to fall out too(unless your pinion seal is still in there, otherwise remove it). The pinion comes out with the inner pinion bearing pressed onto it. Depending on the application, there MAY be a baffle under that bearing, but it's likely that it is included in the install kit... The Yukon install kit came with 3 different baffles/slingers. I don't think we'll be needing/using more than one and it isn't under the inner pinion bearing.

Are you talking about the pinion races? You just use a brass punch and knock the races out. I don't know how you'd use a puller for those. Just knock the races out and then clean the housing. There will be brass chunks all over from the punch... this is because it's softer than the races(which is good... it won't damage crap).
Its all crusty from grinding and fabbing this. I thought I mentioned the skid plate I built, my bad.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by never monday View Post
when life gives you lemons.....make a trail rig out of it.
98 Tj Sahara, 4" SkyJacker, 2"BL, 35x12.50 DC Mud Country, Warn XP-9500, Front High-line Fenders -FOR SALE
97 Tj Sahara, 4" Lift, 33's, 10,000lb Winch.... - SOLD
98 Volvo S70 T5, Lowered, 18" Volvo R Mags -SOLD
86 Bronco Eddie Bauer Trail Truck - SOLD
96 Ford F150, 5.0L V8, Auto, 31's - Current Daily Driver..
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