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Unread 05-10-2011, 06:46 PM   #1
Vici0usX
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rebuilt engine, need help with connecting wires

Just got my engine rebuilt, stuck it back in and having problems figuring out where all the loop connector wires go by the ignition coil and distrbutor. I have 3 wires, one coming from the body of the jeep, looks like a ground, a wire coming fromthe same cable the battery is connected too, and lastly, one cable coming from the same cable mess that connects to the ac condenser??. Anyway, I know one of these cables needs to go to the alternator, but which one. And. What about the other two wires, do any wires connect to the ignition coil? Besides the normal connector.

If anyone could take pictures of t passenger side of their engine, large pictures with closeups on where the wire comes from on the alternator and all grounding like wires on that side would be great. If you know where they go that would Be great too..

.I have a 98. Jeep tj inline 6

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Unread 05-11-2011, 10:13 AM   #2
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Bump!
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Unread 05-11-2011, 12:33 PM   #3
GOLENJEEPTJ
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That's why labeling,bagging and taking pictures are essential for this job.I sent you a PM because of the issue of you needing an "FSM".You should be able to find your info there?Let me know if you did?
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Unread 05-11-2011, 12:43 PM   #4
Vici0usX
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Yeah, I did everything but take pictures... feel stupid now. I'm searching now
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Unread 05-11-2011, 12:50 PM   #5
GOLENJEEPTJ
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Did you read my PM?
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Unread 05-11-2011, 01:44 PM   #6
Vici0usX
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Okay, I believe I got everything right.. but the jeep cranks over, battery seems okay, I smell fuel but the engine will not start. I'm stuck
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Unread 05-11-2011, 01:44 PM   #7
Vici0usX
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Yeah I read your pm, it worked great, used that for figuring out wiring. I'm pretty sure it's right
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Unread 05-11-2011, 01:45 PM   #8
GOLENJEEPTJ
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Do you have an automatic?You need to fill in your profile.If you have an auto,did you replace the paper spacer on the end of the CKP?
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Unread 05-11-2011, 01:46 PM   #9
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CKP= crankshaft positioning sensor.
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Unread 05-11-2011, 04:47 PM   #10
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I have manual tranny and no I didn't do that. I just cleaned itt up alittle bit and connected it. Will not priming the oil pump prevent the engine from starting. Maybe I didn't prime it right? What about the engine being painted, can that cause a bad contact for the grounds?
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Unread 05-11-2011, 06:30 PM   #11
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I had the same problem, no start after installing a fresh long block. The distributor rotor has to be in the exact position in the distrbutor. I was one tooth retarded and it would not start. The rotor spins clock wise. It should be just past the number 1 pole on the distributor cap if you have the number one cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC). I cut a hole in the side of an old cap at number 1 plug wire pole and installed it on the distributor. I was then able to see when I had the rotor in the correct position. It fired right up.
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Unread 05-11-2011, 09:18 PM   #12
Vici0usX
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I'm gonna take that into consideration as well! Thanks bro
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Unread 05-12-2011, 12:41 PM   #13
Vici0usX
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Well it's trying to start more now, just backfires, I think I'm still getting the distributor in wrong? I'll try again.
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Unread 05-12-2011, 12:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vici0usX View Post
I have manual tranny and no I didn't do that. I just cleaned itt up alittle bit and connected it. Will not priming the oil pump prevent the engine from starting. Maybe I didn't prime it right? What about the engine being painted, can that cause a bad contact for the grounds?
The manual trans is different and no paper spacer is required on CKP.
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Unread 05-12-2011, 03:08 PM   #15
Vici0usX
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Thanks Golen, that website lead me to the distributor diagrams and I indexed it perfectly and the engine started. The only problem I am having now is the engine will not idle or the idle is very low. I drove it around for 15 minutes, anything else i should do in particular?
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