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Unread 07-15-2010, 11:28 AM   #1
SolidBrass
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Rear track bar relocation bracket mounting. Cut hole in tub?

The slacker that installed my lift never properly mounted the relocation bracket. Instead of using 3 bolts as directed he used just 1.

Now the bracket is bent and I'm not sure if it would be affecting my death wobble (as it is the back) but should be replaced.

I've got a replacement bracket, but without the ability or knowledge of how to lift the body to get where I need to. I need to drill a mount hole for one of the bolts. Am I crazy consider putting a hole in the tub to get at it?

Instructions http://www.tuffcountry.com/NewFiles/44900.pdf

call for me to:"
Install the new rear track bar bracket over the stock track bar bracket and secure using stock hardware and new anti crush sleeve into stock location. Using the bracket as a guide, drill a 5/16" hole in the bottom and the top of the stock track bar bracket. Secure using 5/16" by 1" bolt and hardware."

But no way I can fit a drill in to top of the bracket (even with a modest body lift)

Any ideas? I don't really want a hole in the tub but I'm not sure what my options are that don't involve paying somebody a bunch of cash.

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Unread 07-15-2010, 11:33 AM   #2
Mini-Me26
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The bracket goes on the axle. What could possibly be in the way?
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Unread 07-15-2010, 11:56 AM   #3
RUkered
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No need to cut into the body. When I did mine, we jacked the Jeep up as far as we could and put jack stands under the frame rails and let the axle droop (we were putting my lift on at the same time). If I remember correctly, I believe we may have had the driver(?) side control arm loose to allow for a little more droop.

In order to fit the drill in, I went to a local hardware store and picked up one of those 90 degree attachments for my drill. Like this one:
http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Images...NAP_ASA_00.JPG

With the axle drooped and, most importantly, with that attachment, we had just enough room to drill that trackbar mount hole.
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Last edited by RUkered; 07-15-2010 at 11:57 AM.. Reason: subpar spelling
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Unread 07-15-2010, 01:02 PM   #4
SolidBrass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini-Me26 View Post
The bracket goes on the axle. What could possibly be in the way?
If it were easy the guy who installed it might have done correctly.

To drill a hole in the top of the bracket the drill points straight up and down.(there is no room for a drill between the axle and the body. So maybe the 90 degree attachments for my drill will work.
rearbar.jpg  

Last edited by SolidBrass; 07-15-2010 at 01:17 PM..
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Unread 07-15-2010, 01:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini-Me26 View Post
The bracket goes on the axle. What could possibly be in the way?
no BL + shorter lift shocks + relocation bracket = dent in tub floor. yes the bracket compresses that far into the frame at full compression without bumpstop extensions or longer shocks to stop it. it can also pinch or destroy brake lines in the process.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidBrass View Post
Any ideas? I don't really want a hole in the tub but I'm not sure what my options are that don't involve paying somebody a bunch of cash.
the bracket has nothing to do with your DW.

you don't need to buy a new bracket. you just need to remove the one you have, pound it into shape with an anvil and BFH until it fits properly. you then need to either bolt it on with new hardware, or better yet, weld it on, and shape/weld a piece of angle iron from the mount to the axle tube for reinforcement. mudb8 has some nice rear track bar reinforcement brackets...search em. for drilling those holes, you need to remove the springs, remove the shocks and get the axle to max droop. you will find a 90 degree drill helps a bunch.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 02:07 PM   #6
roundlitefan
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Or you could put jackstands under the frame and then remove the shocks, rear TB, driveshaft, and upper control arms from the axle side brackets, remove the rear springs and swivel the whole thing 90 degrees.

I just drilled mine while I had the axle out.

It is now welded on in several places as well, guess I will see how it holds up. A brace isn't a bad idea......
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Unread 07-15-2010, 02:26 PM   #7
SolidBrass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roundlitefan View Post
Or you could put jackstands under the frame and then remove the shocks, rear TB, driveshaft, and upper control arms from the axle side brackets, remove the rear springs and swivel the whole thing 90 degrees.
That doesn't sound to hard (kidding) But these are all good suggestions. Thanks
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Unread 07-15-2010, 03:18 PM   #8
roundlitefan
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Quote:
That doesn't sound to hard (kidding) But these are all good suggestions. Thanks
To be honest, after doing a few things like that on the rear axle I will either pull the whole axle or disconnect everything like I said above. Trying to ram a drill with a cheap 90 degree adapter on it between the tub and the trackbar bracket with the Jeep on jackstands and the axle at droop (for which you need to detach the track bar and shocks anyway) while sitting crunched up under the skid plate sounds about as fun as lung cancer.

Pulling a rear axle basically consists of removing 11 bolts, your e-brake cable and your rear brake lines. That might be a little overly simplistic, and it takes some effort, but I sure wouldn't call it hard.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 03:25 PM   #9
mitchrb1
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right angle drill attachment

Hi, When I lifted mine. I had to purchase a right angle drill attachment. I Think I got mine at Home Depot.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 04:28 PM   #10
GOLENJEEPTJ
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Rent or borrow an angle drill.Oh and you don't get "Death wobble" in the rear.Good luck!
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Unread 07-15-2010, 06:23 PM   #11
Cavitation
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Just have it welded on. Nothing to worry about after that and you do not even have to remove a single bolt.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 08:03 PM   #12
rs4race
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Ha the d44 housing I bought came brand new with the holes already there...

I ditched the track bar bracket and went with an adjustable. But did run the stock trackbar with a bracket prior. I did have to drill the stock d35 when I lifted it. We had the trackbar (obviously) and the shocks disconnected there was plenty of room to drill the hole.
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Unread 07-15-2010, 08:45 PM   #13
WV-TJ
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I took a drill bit and broke it off to make it really short. Then I had no problem getting the drill in there. It may also make a difference on the size drill you have.
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Unread 07-20-2010, 05:50 PM   #14
SolidBrass
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I ordered this... 18 Volt 3/8" Cordless Right Angle Drill

should do the job... hope hope
image_2001.jpg  
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Unread 11-01-2010, 03:18 PM   #15
MauiTJ
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Originally Posted by SolidBrass View Post
I ordered this... 18 Volt 3/8" Cordless Right Angle Drill

should do the job... hope hope
interested to see how this panned out
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