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Unread 04-12-2015, 07:30 PM   #1
vinsanity
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 113
Rear driver side not fully drooping

I just removed a 1" spacer on my TC and installed adjustable CAs in the back. Rock Krawler uppers (free can't complain) and Currie lowers (even more epic than expected ).

Now the driver side doesn't fully droop. It now stops ~1.5-2" before my shock is fully extended. From the spring perch to bump stop it's like ~1.5." The CA ends are all JJ or similar and they don't look bound up. Not sure what I'm looking for.

Here are a copy pics. The jack is to lift the passenger side up to where the shock would have stopped it, but it will happily droop another 1"+. Thoughts? (sorry the lighting made one pic pretty dark.)

img_20150412_173451-s.jpg   img_20150412_173534-s.jpg   img_20150412_173723-s.jpg  
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Unread 04-12-2015, 08:21 PM   #2
3X4X4
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Is your track bar binding. When I had the same issue replacing the track bar with a Currie and slanted bracket remedied the binding allowing full droop.
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Unread 04-12-2015, 09:13 PM   #3
vinsanity
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Don't think so. Looks like it has a little rotation left in it. The PO installed what looks like a Rough Country track bar.
img_20150412_195652-s.jpg  
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Unread 04-12-2015, 09:47 PM   #4
speed-racer
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Your track bar is pulling the axle to one side, binding due to slight triangulation in the factory 4 link.
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Unread 04-12-2015, 10:14 PM   #5
vinsanity
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Beaverton, Oregon
Posts: 113
Looks like the length of the track bar is preventing it from dropping any further. If it was 3/4" longer it would let the axle drop to the bottom of the shocks. Does this qualify as "binding?" (I'm not actually sure what TB binding is. )

I'll give this thread a go and see where it should be, since I wasn't the one who installed it. I'm waiting for a Savvy GTS in 2 weeks, so I won't be on the wheels for a little while.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/tr...tment-1062325/

It says that being a little off is ok. Is 3/4" considered "a little?" is it cool if I extend it, see if it hits anything badly at full tuck, and if it doesn't, just call it a day.
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Unread 04-13-2015, 06:29 AM   #6
speed-racer
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Longer will help, but also shift your axle off center assuming it is centered the way you have it now. Relocating the track bar higher at the axle end will also help by allowing the axle to drop further for the same track bar angle. Do you have a relocation bracket? Looks like you need an angled bracket anyways.
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Unread 04-13-2015, 04:38 PM   #7
vinsanity
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What is the value of the angle at the top of a standard relocation bracket? I have a ball-style (?) end on the track bar that seems to be handling the rotation.

It's an 8.8 with a custom bracket welded on, so I'll have to fab some thing up in order to add a top angle. I'm going to drill a new hole a little higher on the existing bracket, but there isn't much room up at the floor attach another adapter.
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Unread 04-13-2015, 07:34 PM   #8
speed-racer
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Will help with clearance to the gas tank skid. But you're correct, with that joint there isn't a benefit otherwise. Lowering the frame side would have the same effect, but there are other geometry related benefits to raising the axle end if you can. One would be a higher roll center height. If it were me, I'd do a little fab work to relocate the best you can or just deal with the limited down travel. Its tough to get the drivers side worked out with a lift, stock suspension links, and a stock location track bar.
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Unread 04-13-2015, 07:51 PM   #9
88hatchy
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This is really common and not an issue.
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1997 TJ - Current project: Simple-ish build
1988 Civic Hatch - Runs 12's, gets 30 mpg
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