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Old 06-14-2006, 08:46 PM   #1
Swindle133IWB
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Rear disconnects...?

I was given the idea and the parts to make some disconnects for my rear swaybar. What are the thoughts on it for offroad purpose only, as I do know the consequences of driving without an anti-swaybar in the rear. I know that the springs would need to be secured some way or another, and I think some spring retainer clips similar to the ones in the front would probably work. So basically, whats the consensus on a disconnected rear anti-swaybar offroad, and if it's good to use offroad, how should I keep the rear springs in when under some good flex? Thanks guys! (Sorry if this is a repost but my search isn't working for some reason )

Mark

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Old 06-14-2006, 08:53 PM   #2
ugrider21
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most people dont bother with disconnecting the rear, you get plenty of what many refer to as 'usable' flex with the right swaybar links for the lift. i'd say just put the money into something else and save the trouble. besides, the rear swaybar links would be a pain in the butt to disconnect every time you're offroad.
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Old 06-14-2006, 08:54 PM   #3
Swindle133IWB
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What do people mean by "usable flex"? The way I'd disconnect them wouldn't take any longer than it does for me to disconnect the front ones, and the only money that would be spent on them would be on some pins. Thanks for the quick reply
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RE 4.5 SF, RE adjustable front and rear track bar, Currie HD Steering System, 1" BL, 1" MML, 4.56 gearing, Aussie Locked D30 with Alloy USA chromoly axles and axle seals, Currie Hi-Pinion Ford 9" with Detroit NoSpin and 31 spline chromoly shafts, SS SYE, TW Driveshaft, Skid Row Engine Skid, Warn D30 skid, Currie HD Tie Rod System, Go-fer-it belly up, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Shrockworks Rocker Guards, Shrockworks Corner Guards, SRC Front Bumper with Warn M8000, LoD Bumper/tire carrier, 6 Rock Lights, home made hand throttle, Banks Header and Flowmaster 40 free flow exhaust, on 35" BFG Muds with TNT Customs Flatfenders with the 4 inch flare
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:27 PM   #4
JamboreeTJ
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Useable flex is for wheeling. Overflex is for, well, posing. If there is not contact by the spring on both end, then there is no down pressure on that side of the axle and therefore no traction. Equates to no assistance. So the tire might as well be up in the air.

Chances are that if you are over flexed to the point that the spring is loose (or sometimes people can even remove them) (or sometimes they fall out) you are running a good chance of binding up the u-joints in your drive shaft. That is bad. Like crunch, pop, limp home bad - if you are lucky.

Too many ramp queens out there who are building up to maximize flex without regard to the other effects, or whether it is even productive for off road.
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Old 06-14-2006, 09:33 PM   #5
Swindle133IWB
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Thanks, ya I wasn't sure if it was going to be something for the RTI ramp or for actual wheeling. A couple more answers like TJ's and I'm not going to do that. Anyone with benefits that outweigh the obvious risks?
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RE 4.5 SF, RE adjustable front and rear track bar, Currie HD Steering System, 1" BL, 1" MML, 4.56 gearing, Aussie Locked D30 with Alloy USA chromoly axles and axle seals, Currie Hi-Pinion Ford 9" with Detroit NoSpin and 31 spline chromoly shafts, SS SYE, TW Driveshaft, Skid Row Engine Skid, Warn D30 skid, Currie HD Tie Rod System, Go-fer-it belly up, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Shrockworks Rocker Guards, Shrockworks Corner Guards, SRC Front Bumper with Warn M8000, LoD Bumper/tire carrier, 6 Rock Lights, home made hand throttle, Banks Header and Flowmaster 40 free flow exhaust, on 35" BFG Muds with TNT Customs Flatfenders with the 4 inch flare
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Old 06-14-2006, 10:42 PM   #6
Swindle133IWB
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Bump

8, 9, 10
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98 White TJ:

RE 4.5 SF, RE adjustable front and rear track bar, Currie HD Steering System, 1" BL, 1" MML, 4.56 gearing, Aussie Locked D30 with Alloy USA chromoly axles and axle seals, Currie Hi-Pinion Ford 9" with Detroit NoSpin and 31 spline chromoly shafts, SS SYE, TW Driveshaft, Skid Row Engine Skid, Warn D30 skid, Currie HD Tie Rod System, Go-fer-it belly up, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Shrockworks Rocker Guards, Shrockworks Corner Guards, SRC Front Bumper with Warn M8000, LoD Bumper/tire carrier, 6 Rock Lights, home made hand throttle, Banks Header and Flowmaster 40 free flow exhaust, on 35" BFG Muds with TNT Customs Flatfenders with the 4 inch flare
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Old 06-15-2006, 01:22 AM   #7
Jerry Bransford
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Leave the rear antiswaybar connected! Disconnecting it gives no benefits and can even encourage a flop or rollover on steep or offcamber terrain. Ever notice that there are a lot of suspension lift manufacturers that make front antiswaybar discos but none of the major player lift manufacturers make them for the rear?
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Old 06-15-2006, 08:37 AM   #8
Wheelin98TJ
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Just for fun, try flexing the rear with it connected and then compare to when its disconnected.

Well, I'll save you the time and hassle and tell you that you gain 1" disconnected.

Its certainly not worth the loss in stability to gain 1" of flex.
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Old 06-15-2006, 08:55 AM   #9
The Mean Fish
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IF you really want more flex out of the rear and don't want to lose all the benefit of the rear sway bar check out TK Sliders.

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/swb/articles/tksliders.htm

I've seen a few people run them and they seem to work well. I don't bother with it, my tires are into my fender flares long before the rear stops flexing and I leave my rear sway bar connected all the time.
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:03 AM   #10
Swindle133IWB
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Thanks everyone, looks like I wont be doin' any home made disconnects now, especially with the input of Jerry! It flexes really well already, and I don't need it to be unstable just trying to make it so that the RTI is just that much better.
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98 White TJ:

RE 4.5 SF, RE adjustable front and rear track bar, Currie HD Steering System, 1" BL, 1" MML, 4.56 gearing, Aussie Locked D30 with Alloy USA chromoly axles and axle seals, Currie Hi-Pinion Ford 9" with Detroit NoSpin and 31 spline chromoly shafts, SS SYE, TW Driveshaft, Skid Row Engine Skid, Warn D30 skid, Currie HD Tie Rod System, Go-fer-it belly up, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Shrockworks Rocker Guards, Shrockworks Corner Guards, SRC Front Bumper with Warn M8000, LoD Bumper/tire carrier, 6 Rock Lights, home made hand throttle, Banks Header and Flowmaster 40 free flow exhaust, on 35" BFG Muds with TNT Customs Flatfenders with the 4 inch flare
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:06 AM   #11
JeepRocks86
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I took mine off a while back because one of the links was broken. I got some great rear travel, but since I put the gears and the locker in the rear it is a little squirlly on the road so I am going to finish putting the rear swaybar back on today.
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