Rear coil spring replacement for dummies - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 38 Old 07-29-2010, 08:27 PM
AFjeepMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Show me where you need a longer rear brake line on the rear axle with a suspension lift? You don't need one on the rear axle...
I said "should do" and show me where it says you shouldn't? not only do good brake lines transfer pressure to the brakes better than the stock rubber guys, but you don't ever have to worry about the rear line should you go with a long arm which will most likely give you more wheel droop than the stock lines were meant to handle.

edit: show me where a lift kit says everything you may need down the road. Most lifts don't even address the front brake lines needing to be extended so that is not a legit argument.


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post #17 of 38 Old 07-29-2010, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFjeepMan View Post
I said "should do" and show me where it says you shouldn't? not only do good brake lines transfer pressure to the brakes better than the stock rubber guys, but you don't ever have to worry about the rear line should you go with a long arm which will most likely give you more wheel droop than the stock lines were meant to handle.

edit: show me where a lift kit says everything you may need down the road. Most lifts don't even address the front brake lines needing to be extended so that is not a legit argument.
The OP is talking about his setup, nothing else. There is nothing superior about aftermarket rear line over the OEM line. With the OP's setup, there is no reason to change the rear axle brake line...
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post #18 of 38 Old 07-29-2010, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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So you both think that there is no polarity to the springs?

**EDIT**
AFjeep I do already have a 4" lift 3 years now. I was only worried about when I sag it with shocks off pulling on the brake lines. I would like to keep the upper control arms on so just wondered about it over reaching the lines.

Last edited by SolidBrass; 07-29-2010 at 09:39 PM.
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post #19 of 38 Old 07-29-2010, 09:10 PM
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So you both think that there is no polarity to the springs?
Up or down? NIMO...
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post #20 of 38 Old 07-29-2010, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Knuckelhead,

My brake lines are hanging free and kinda sit on the upper control arm. Somewhere I've heard to just zip tie brake line to upper control arm. Does that sound right?

I pulled one side to replace a johnny joint and was wondering when I put it back in where the lines should run.

BTW the image in page 1 of the bump stop? I remove that somehow right?
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post #21 of 38 Old 07-30-2010, 05:32 AM
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I've seen them zip tied, I use clamps.



Why do you want to remove the bump stop?...
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post #22 of 38 Old 07-30-2010, 06:34 AM
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If I remember correctly you don't need to remove the bumpstops and the metal cup that holds them in place if your just replacing just the spring. If you're adding a spacer between the spring and the rest of the Jeep then you will have to remove them. The spacer will not fit over the lip of the metal cup.
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post #23 of 38 Old 07-30-2010, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for clearing up the bump stop question. I thought I read somewhere I must remove it to fit the new springs in. They must have been talking about adding a spacer or doing the front end perhaps.
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post #24 of 38 Old 07-31-2010, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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After install rear sits about 1.25" higher than front with full tank. New springs much thicker/bigger and taller than TuffCountry's puny springs. Now I have to sorry about adjusting the driveshaft/rear end joint right?

One of the old springs was def. shot. (first pic TC 2nd pic RC)
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punytuffCspring.jpg   springcoil2.jpg  
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post #25 of 38 Old 07-31-2010, 03:25 PM
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Got a picture of the pinion angle?...
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post #26 of 38 Old 07-31-2010, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure this picture is good enough. but here you go
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pinion.jpg   pinion2.jpg  
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post #27 of 38 Old 07-31-2010, 04:09 PM
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In the first picture, the pinion looks a tad low, if you have a CV joint driveshaft? Can you post a better picture from the side?...
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post #28 of 38 Old 07-31-2010, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure this is any better but.. (i might have to wait for the sun to set a bit more)
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post #29 of 38 Old 07-31-2010, 04:28 PM
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Your pinion angle is low. It doesn't look like you have a double cardon driveshaft, so you're not going to get anything out of adjusting the pinion. When you do get a double cardon, set your pinion a degree or two shallower than the d/s.

There is no up or down to rear springs. However, if you were to get OME springs there is a driver side and a passenger side. I don't know if any other manufacturers do this.
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post #30 of 38 Old 07-31-2010, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Here is one more shot of it for good measure
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