post #1 of Old 07-28-2010, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
SolidBrass
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Rear coil spring replacement for dummies

Do I need to remove bump stops to replace rear springs? With lift do I worry about break lines? How do you pry the top bumper on the bump stops?

JF (and O'Doyle) rules. TY for any reply...

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post #2 of Old 07-28-2010, 09:28 PM
AFjeepMan
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it makes life a lot easier and probably necessary to remove the bump stop, and longer brake lines are a good idea if you are looking at anything over a budget boost. what do you mean the top bumper on the bump stops?

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WANTED: SYE and cv shaft...good condition and good price. for a TJ with about 5-6" of lift.
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post #3 of Old 07-28-2010, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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I have a 4" lift with busted spring. Replacing spring with RC's that are about 1" taller than mine (i'm told)

Doing some searching online I've seen "remove bump stop" followed by "there is a rubber piece on top you must pry off to get to the bolt". Mine looks like str8 up metal but I've never dug into it proper. Thats why I ask.

Remove rubber bump stop to access bolt/nut... so how to you 'pull' the rubber piece off if that is what is there.
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post #4 of Old 07-28-2010, 09:40 PM
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well if yours is so old and the rubber broke off you may have to use a flat head screwdriver to get at the bolt, or if whoever put the 4" lift didn't put the stock bump stop back in you'll be able to get right at the bolt. Take a look and find out. Fingers can tell as much as eyes can and you don't have to remove the wheel to find out.

edit: or you can fly me out there and I'll fix it in a day

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(o)_) (o)_)--)_)

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WANTED: SYE and cv shaft...good condition and good price. for a TJ with about 5-6" of lift.
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post #5 of Old 07-28-2010, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFjeepMan View Post
edit: or you can fly me out there and I'll fix it in a day
I did say "for dummies".

I just like to dot some I's/cross T's before I dig in for first time (me being new). I pre-do every job if I can to be sure I know what I'm doing. (assemble parts and un-assemble if possible) I'm lucky i've not been stuck to bad on something so far that would make a tow required.

This shouldn't be that hard, but the rubber bump stop talk threw me.

*EDIT* yes installer did take some short cut's that i've found. Like 1 of 3 mounting bolts for track bar relocation bracket.
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post #6 of Old 07-28-2010, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidBrass View Post
*EDIT* yes installer did take some short cut's that i've found. Like 1 of 3 mounting bolts for track bar relocation bracket.
WOW!!! impressive

2005 Wrangler TJ, 3 1/4" RC lift, Cragar Soft 8's 32" BFG Mud Terrains, Smittybilt SRC D-Ring bumpers, Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Body Armor Rockcrawler side guards
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[_l_,[____],
l----L - OlllllllO-

(o)_) (o)_)--)_)

Wife≥Jeep>GF

Relearn your priorities.


WANTED: SYE and cv shaft...good condition and good price. for a TJ with about 5-6" of lift.
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post #7 of Old 07-29-2010, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by AFjeepMan View Post
and longer brake lines are a good idea if you are looking at anything over a budget boost.
Why?...
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post #8 of Old 07-29-2010, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
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Why?...
Because the distance from the frame to the caliper/drum is increased. takes all the slack out and they can rupture.
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post #9 of Old 07-29-2010, 06:11 AM
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Because the distance from the frame to the caliper/drum is increased. takes all the slack out and they can rupture.
The OP is talking about the rear springs...
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post #10 of Old 07-29-2010, 06:21 AM
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anything over a budget boost........
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post #11 of Old 07-29-2010, 06:23 AM
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anything over a budget boost........
No new brake line is needed for the rear axle with a suspension lift...
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post #12 of Old 07-29-2010, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a photo of what i'm asking about.

Do I pull off rusty looking bump stop? There is a nut under it?
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post #13 of Old 07-29-2010, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Also replacements came. Guy from RC that I bought them from said there is an "upside" and "down side"

I called again to be clear and was told there is no up or down side. Looking at them the I think there is no up/down side. What do you think?
Attached Thumbnails
springcoil2.jpg   springcoil3.jpg  

Last edited by SolidBrass; 07-29-2010 at 07:52 PM.
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post #14 of Old 07-29-2010, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
No new brake line is needed for the rear axle with a suspension lift...

I only have the RC 3.25" lift and I was closer to the max extension of the rear brake line as I was comfortable with. it's all up to you, but there is a reason that the stock brake line is a certain length (hint: it was made to operate at stock suspension height) and when you increase that with a lift it really is a should do to lengthen the brake lines front and rear between the frame and axle.

2005 Wrangler TJ, 3 1/4" RC lift, Cragar Soft 8's 32" BFG Mud Terrains, Smittybilt SRC D-Ring bumpers, Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Body Armor Rockcrawler side guards
My Build Thread

[_l_,[____],
l----L - OlllllllO-

(o)_) (o)_)--)_)

Wife≥Jeep>GF

Relearn your priorities.


WANTED: SYE and cv shaft...good condition and good price. for a TJ with about 5-6" of lift.
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post #15 of Old 07-29-2010, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFjeepMan View Post
I only have the RC 3.25" lift and I was closer to the max extension of the rear brake line as I was comfortable with. it's all up to you, but there is a reason that the stock brake line is a certain length (hint: it was made to operate at stock suspension height) and when you increase that with a lift it really is a should do to lengthen the brake lines front and rear between the frame and axle.
Show me where you need a longer rear brake line on the rear axle with a suspension lift? The rear brake line length doesn't change with a lift (short arm, OP) as it's routed along the upper control arm. You don't need one on the rear axle...
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