|
|
>
Rear axle shaft-high strength ok?
| GR8TOPS Introduces the Exogate HD Tire Carrier | Truck-Lite's New LED Headlamp Series | RUBICON EXPRESS Lift Kits and Accessories Available at Bas |
![]() |
|
|
#1 | |
|
Registered User
|
Rear axle shaft-high strength ok?
I have a bent rear axle shaft on my '00 TJ with Dana 44 rear, detroit locker. I have some questions about changing it out.
1. I am looking at some higher strength Alloy USA axle shafts. I realize that with the high strength axles, they shouldn't bend. But along with that, you loose the axles ability to flex. The stock axles should be much more forgiving because they actually twist under high torque. With the high strength, won't this be harder on the pinion, driveshaft, etc? 2. Is it OK to mismatch axle shafts? I am thinking about leaving my stock driver side in, and only change out the passenger side to a high strength. With the different amounts of torsion, will I notice the difference between sides? 3. Does anyone know if the bearings, seals, & wheel studs from my stock axle will drop right on a new Alloy USA axle?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#2 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
I do not have any concerns nor have I ever heard of any concerned with an alloy shaft not having enough "flex" in them to be an issue as in running the OEM vs. aftermarket being better. Also if your paying for new alloy shafts IMO its dumb to run just one of the shafts and leave the stock one in place, rather use the stock one as spare if you ever break your alloy shafts. And when you get new shafts I believe with the Alloy USA they come with new bearings and studs, if not just spend a few bucks more and get new ones. That IMO is like reusing the bolts for the ring gear which is a no no, get new stuff since your replacing the shafts....might as well have new bearings and studs in there replace them then while your in the axle doing the work. And yes I have Alloy USA rear shafts and Yukon fronts. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Registered User
|
You can purchase the Alloy USA shafts only, single shaft is $85, or both shafts with bearings, seals, and studs for $235. I am debating whether to purchase just one shaft, or do both complete.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
Last edited by UCTJ; 10-10-2006 at 07:36 AM.. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
RESIDENT METAL
|
replace em both, less headache down the line
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
Registered User
|
Quote:
2. I currently have a stock axle shaft driver, Alloy passenger 3. I just purchased an Alloy from Quadratec for $89 shaft only, no bearing, seal, retainer plate, or locking collar.... I just went to Autozone for that crap and used the old retainer plate. I notice no difference what so ever. There's no headaches with doing them one at a time and you don't save any coin either way.
__________________
Definition of Rubicon: A limit that when passed or exceeded permits of no return and typically results in irrevocable commitment. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Registered User
|
I think I'm with the Fisher. My bearings are fine - only 24K miles, they look brand new. I can keep my stock slightly bent axle as a backup. It's not any more difficult or expensive to change the driver side out later if it breaks - just probably not as convienient. I may never bend my driver axle.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|
|
«
Previous Thread
|
Next Thread
»
|
| Suggested Threads |
|