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Unread 06-28-2010, 02:08 PM   #1
Aevrubi06
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Rcv shaft install

Sunday build, took a good part of the day but went pretty smooth.
Thanks to Kyle and Doug at extreme axle sales for the great deal on the shafts at Rausch Creek's Rcrocs.

Driver side Unit bearing assembly hub was just a bear to get out but the passenger side dropped right out

After seeing how dirty and rusted the front shaft was, an the junk that was in the tube itself, i made a call to 4wd for some front axle tube seals by alloy usa

4" grinder worked great and the measuring spacer that's included in the kit fit snug in.

Once i scrubbed the knuckle and cleaned off the gunk put some primer and a coat of black epoxy to keep them clean.
Everything went back together great and had no problems with the install.
Took longer to take the driver side apart than the actuall install itself.


More pics to come once i find my sim card from the camera.






Last edited by Aevrubi06; 06-29-2010 at 10:49 AM..
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Unread 07-28-2010, 01:41 AM   #2
Sccafire
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Nice write-up. Can you give us more details on how they are working so far?
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Unread 08-01-2010, 04:21 PM   #3
Aevrubi06
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The shafts are amazing, they have no lock up since there in no u joint and there is no wheel hop in 4wheel at full lockout. Now i can wheel the hell out of 37's and have no doubts about backing of the throttle. Don't drive the jeep too much as a DD anymore but my gf does more than i. The shafts are def one of the best investments on the jeep.
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Unread 08-02-2010, 01:25 AM   #4
Sccafire
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Thanks. I am looking to upgrade myself. I looked at these and wanted to get some information from thise who have them.
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Unread 08-02-2010, 06:04 AM   #5
Sundowner
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Excellent news. I was wondering if these would help with the stress of 37's, should I go that route. Axle truss as well, I assume?
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Unread 08-07-2010, 08:08 AM   #6
Aevrubi06
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These shafts are built to wheel, i have complete confidence in them an would not think twice about putting them in my next rig. I do not run a truss up front, just in the rear.
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Unread 08-07-2010, 08:37 AM   #7
Turfzilla
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Those are sexy! I could not pull the trigger on them though. Stuck with alloy and traditional joints.
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03 Rubicon, NV 3550, 4" LA, UCF TT, Rear Rock Jock 60, Ultimate 44 w/Artec Truss/gussets and RCV shafts and 37" Irocks
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Unread 08-08-2010, 09:54 AM   #8
TJ=MT Pockets
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Won't they just make your R&P the weak link then?

I think i'd sooner bust a u-joint than a R&P.

Do they make outer shafts that work with a small warn hub conversion so you could make the hub the weak link?
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Y2K 4L 5spd TJ Sport--4.5" RE SF all adj. arms--1" BL--1" MML--33"bias swampers(soon to be 36" swamper sx's on rockcity diy beadlocks)--D44 4.88's arb w/alloy usa shafts--HPD30 4.88's locrite w/warn alloy inners--warn small hub kit--longfield hd u-joints--currie steering--currie anti-rock--tera low--A-Z Fab cage--and a bunch of skids
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Unread 08-08-2010, 10:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJ=MT Pockets View Post
Won't they just make your R&P the weak link then?

I think i'd sooner bust a u-joint than a R&P.

Do they make outer shafts that work with a small warn hub conversion so you could make the hub the weak link?
Why would you make anything into a sacrificial part?
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Unread 08-08-2010, 11:07 AM   #10
TJ=MT Pockets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
Why would you make anything into a sacrificial part?
Well, because inevitably you are going to bust something on the locked d30 and 37's. Especially if you are running trails that really require 37's. I'd sooner it be a warn hub or u-joint or even an axle shaft than a R&P.

There are no grantees that it won't be a R&P but I’d sooner the odds be in my favor for an easier trail fix so I don't mess up my whole weekend wheeling plans trying to get a R&P fixed. I can't fix a R&P myself, but I can swap out a hub / u-joint / axle shaft.

That is my reasoning.
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Y2K 4L 5spd TJ Sport--4.5" RE SF all adj. arms--1" BL--1" MML--33"bias swampers(soon to be 36" swamper sx's on rockcity diy beadlocks)--D44 4.88's arb w/alloy usa shafts--HPD30 4.88's locrite w/warn alloy inners--warn small hub kit--longfield hd u-joints--currie steering--currie anti-rock--tera low--A-Z Fab cage--and a bunch of skids
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Unread 08-09-2010, 07:58 AM   #11
Aevrubi06
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Its a D44. The R&P is under full warranty and if it breaks then it just gives me something to fix, thats what wheeling is about. I wheel with 36" swampers and i run 37"km2's on the road which is maybe once a month when i drive it. Warn hubs won't guarantee breakage before the R&P, I run rubi air lockers and harldey ever need to use them so that is highly unlikely to break the teeth of the ring gear with an open diff. But theres always a first for everything!
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Unread 08-09-2010, 08:18 AM   #12
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aevrubi06 View Post
...Its a D44...

...I wheel with 36" swampers and i run 37"km2's on the road...
This makes me feel a lot better about going to RCV shafts and only having 35's on mine.
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Unread 08-09-2010, 08:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aevrubi06 View Post
...The R&P is under full warranty...
Is that warranty going to help get it fixed on the trail?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aevrubi06 View Post
...if it breaks then it just gives me something to fix, thats what wheeling is about. ...
Really? I must have missed that somewhere in the off-road handbook. For some strange reason I view the day much more of a success when I make it back to the campground or home without breaking anything.
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Unread 08-09-2010, 08:45 AM   #14
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Thanks for the information!
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Unread 08-11-2010, 10:50 PM   #15
Aevrubi06
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well im glad you follow the handbook, ill just throw mine on the trailer and wheel my cj.
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