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Unread 09-20-2012, 06:17 AM   #31
rkymtn05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
I wouldn't run JJ's as steering ends on the drag link or tie rod.....I've never even seen that done, probably because the smallest JJ's would be too big. TRE's or rod ends are better in that application.
I assumed that the TREs were better but didn't know exactly why. I've just observed what currie offers in their steering and guess that if you want to keep factory geometry, that's probably the best kit. I've seen it debated on other threads about rod ends being better like the rock krawler kit but, I still favor the currie/savvy design.

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Unread 09-20-2012, 06:51 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkymtn05 View Post
I assumed that the TREs were better but didn't know exactly why. I've just observed what currie offers in their steering and guess that if you want to keep factory geometry, that's probably the best kit. I've seen it debated on other threads about rod ends being better like the rock krawler kit but, I still favor the currie/savvy design.
In regards to that subject, I'll take Currie over the RK kit every day of the week.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:04 AM   #33
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I've seen the new RC control arms fail in less than a year. The joints were completely shot with less than 10,000 miles on them. They gave the Jeep death wobble like you wouldn't believe. When I removed the RCs, the joints had about an 1/8" of play in them. What ever material their races are made out of really sucks. We removed them and installed Savvy's arms in their place. No more issues.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:07 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped

In regards to that subject, I'll take Currie over the RK kit every day of the week.
I figured you'd say that. Lol. What would you say to someone claiming that the hiem would be better on control arms than the Johnny joint. He also links all flex joints into one group because he doesnt understand the superior design of the currie over others like the ones from rocky
Road. He also states that the hiem is more durable over time but, I disagree especially in the rust belt.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:22 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by rkymtn05 View Post
I figured you'd say that. Lol. What would you say to someone claiming that the hiem would be better on control arms than the Johnny joint. He also links all flex joints into one group because he doesnt understand the superior design of the currie over others like the ones from rocky
Road. He also states that the hiem is more durable over time but, I disagree especially in the rust belt.
I say that because of the issues with running a non-tapered bolt through the stock knuckles, mainly. There are much better ways to run a knuckle-to-knuckle tie rod on a Dana 30 but it requires more than bolt-on parts.

As for rod end vs. JJ, if you drive on the road a good amount of the time you'll want some isolation then. A JJ retains all the qualities of a rod end but with an isolation component added. And saying all flex joints are the same is like saying all 15" diameter wheels weigh the same. That's just ignorant. Just watch the JJ video on Currie's site.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:13 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroubleNEO
RC Long Arms here. They were installed less than a year ago, and have not been wheeled hard regularly. I have their "new" redesigned X-Flex type bushing that they released because the old ones are having problems.

Well guess what, mine are already hosed in under a year. I got a free set of rebuild kits from them, but you better believe JJ's will be going in those arms sooner rather than later.
I need to take my joints off and inspect... I have the new flex joints and I hope they are not hosed!
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:34 PM   #37
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Does anyone have pictures of these failed x-flex series joints? I have them and always hear how they fail but never see it.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:39 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Jeepson33s
Does anyone have pictures of these failed x-flex series joints? I have them and always hear how they fail but never see it.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 07:42 PM   #39
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I ask for my own curiosity and i like seeing things that fail...no to prove that they "do" fail.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:08 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Jeepson33s
I ask for my own curiosity and i like seeing things that fail...no to prove that they "do" fail.
Good point and I respect that. And this is not to say that the grapevine is wrong about these bushings, but I have seen more than one instance of small failure for the right person turn into legendary Jeep lore. Either way, I'm easily entertained best wishes.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:36 PM   #41
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Good point and I respect that. And this is not to say that the grapevine is wrong about these bushings, but I have seen more than one instance of small failure for the right person turn into legendary Jeep lore. Either way, I'm easily entertained best wishes.
I have a Jeep you need to buy. 03 4.0 manual on 38's with race seats, cage, ARB switches, and custom paint. 15 grand and you can trailer it home.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 08:40 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by mrblaine

I have a Jeep you need to buy. 03 4.0 manual on 38's with race seats, cage, ARB switches, and custom paint. 15 grand and you can trailer it home.
I'd prefer to drive it rather than trailer it.

But my plan is to have more money than brains within 2 years. So if you still have it then....



....I'll build one that's better.
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Unread 09-20-2012, 09:18 PM   #43
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I have a Jeep you need to buy. 03 4.0 manual on 38's with race seats, cage, ARB switches, and custom paint. 15 grand and you can trailer it home.
I remember that one......
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Unread 09-20-2012, 09:43 PM   #44
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I don't get it?
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Unread 09-21-2012, 05:30 AM   #45
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I have a Jeep you need to buy. 03 4.0 manual on 38's with race seats, cage, ARB switches, and custom paint. 15 grand and you can trailer it home.
What ever happened to that jeep? Do you seriously have it? Definite classic.
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