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Unread 12-09-2013, 08:12 PM   #16
rda616
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It isn't just about what a kit comes with, but how parts work together, or how parts work on different rigs. The rc kit wouldn't work at all for me, but may be just fine for your needs. I don't care for the 3/4" spacer on top of such a long spring especially if you don't add bump stop extension. You run a high risk of binding the springs. This is one reason why I like the 3.75" lift over the 3.25". The 3.75" is a combination lift and doesn't use a spring spacer.

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Unread 12-09-2013, 08:25 PM   #17
Jam1965
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I have had the RC 3.25 lift for about 2 years on my 97 TJ, no sag, no issues. My friend has a skyjacker lift on his TJ that is sagging and rusting pretty bad. Another friend of mine had a RC lift on his TJ and wheeled it pretty hard and he also had no issues. This is not to say that RC has no problems, all companies do thats why they have customer service departments. All I am saying is do your research, check out a companies history, warranty, and make your decision.
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Unread 12-09-2013, 09:16 PM   #18
Ncoffaro
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For me, I am 18, always knew i wanted a jeep so i saved up and got my jeep about 6 months ago . Have added a few things (off road lights, painted grill, bull bar...ext.) and replaced a few parts so far but my jeep is still pretty much stock and i am ready to start first "major" project. So, i decided on this lift since i have done a BUNCH of research and have found a lot of people saying that this is a good "starter" or "newbie" lift kit. Its not like i am going rock crawling or major trail riding any time soon so i dont think i really need to go all out with the best of the best but i still would like to do things right the first time and not have to worry about anything failing on me down the road... so thats just a little about me so you can maybe get a "feel" on what my situation is. Anyways, thats why i am here, so i can learn from the experts. Thanks guys.
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Unread 12-09-2013, 09:18 PM   #19
SoonerE39
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To the o/p I understand that you are on a budget and you want the most bang for the buck, but as some others have said, if you can't afford to do it right the first time....wait till you have a little more money.
I've had the R/C 3.75 combo kit for something like 4 years now (got it when it first came out). It's not necessarily as good a kit as some of the more expensive brands but it has been fine for me for mild to moderate off roading. I would encourage you to do the bump stops at the same time you do the install. I assume you have never worked with a spring compressor but it really isn't what most would call 'fun'. So why would you want to go through all that PITA again to add bump stops later because you didn't want to spring $30 more for them now? Also, I really encourage you to get an adjustable track bar and do this right instead of trying to drill out and hope you get it right. The suspension will settle in some later so do you plan to drill for the track bar and have it right now and wrong later, or have it wrong now and hope it settles to where you drill it out to. If you plan to wait to drill it out later when it settles, how do you know when it has settled for good....is that in 3 months...5.5 months...7 months. If you read up on threads about 'death wobble', you will want to avoid doing anything that messes up the suspension geometry so bad that you can't fix it and end up paying a shop $1500 to fix what you couldn't.
Do you think you might ever want a winch or aftermarket bumper later? These springs can't handle it. Mine was nose diving horribly after adding the winch later so I ended up getting the R/C 4" springs in the front. (Remember what I said about having to mess with a spring compressor twice).

Also some other things you haven't talked about that are important with a lift: Driveline angles. You are putting that rear driveshaft an an unfavorable angle. A 1"MML will suffice but make sure thats in your budget when you do this or you are likely to get driveline problems.
What gear ratios do your axles have? Are 33's suitable or will you be unbearably slow and unable to climb hills? Would you rather re-gear ($$$$) or go to smaller tires? I have 3.07 gears on 32's and there is no way I would go any bigger without a higher gear ratio. There are a lot of factors that go into a lift thats much more than just 4 springs and 4 shocks.
I'm not by any means telling you to NOT get the R/C/ lift. In fact for a budget lift when you won't be wheeling hard, its a pretty good alternative. But if you aren't prepared to also upgrade other items that go along with a lift then you need to wait. Maybe right now you just want to go for a body lift until you can afford to do the rest of it. Just trying to save you a LOT of headaches

Edit - Pic below is before wich added, before upgraded tie rod and quicker disconnects - right after first put on the RC lift

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4.0L Auto. D30/D35 3.07 gears, 1.25" Spidertracks spacers, RC 2.5" lift, 1.25" BL, 32 x 11.5 x 15 BFG MT tires, Brown Dog 1" MML, M.O.R.E Bombproof MM Brackets, Big Daddy Tie Rod, JKS Adjustable Track Bar, JKS Quicker Disconnects, KC Daylighters, Smittybuilt swing away spare tire- bumper, XRC8 Winch
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Unread 12-09-2013, 09:33 PM   #20
Ncoffaro
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Thanks SoonerE39, A LOT of good info. I actually have had experience with spring compressors before (installed new springs on my brothers ford) and i agree that they are a huge PITA so i will keep that in mind. When it comes to the MML i have thought about them and looked into them for a little bit, do you think i will be fine with this setup for a little and then do the MML later on? Or maybe I could even do just a 2.5" SL for now and then when i am ready i can add a 1.25" BL and 1" MML? Would i need to mess with the driveline angles with only the 2.5" lift? And do i still need bump stop extenders with the 2.5?
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Unread 12-09-2013, 09:37 PM   #21
SoonerE39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ncoffaro View Post
Thanks SoonerE39, A LOT of good info. I actually have had experience with spring compressors before (installed new springs on my brothers ford) and i agree that they are a huge PITA so i will keep that in mind. When it comes to the MML i have thought about them and looked into them for a little bit, do you think i will be fine with this setup for a little and then do the MML later on? Or maybe I could even do just like a 2.5" SL for now and then when i am ready i can add a 1.25" BL and 1" MML? Would i need to mess with the driveline angles with only the 2.5" lift? And do i still need bump stop extenders with the 2.5?
As long as you do the transfer case drop with it you should be ok for now on driveline angles. Your TC skid plate will then act as a shovel when you go through soft sand or mud (dragging below with lost ground clearance) but when you go to a MML you can then lose the TC drop and bring it back up
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4.0L Auto. D30/D35 3.07 gears, 1.25" Spidertracks spacers, RC 2.5" lift, 1.25" BL, 32 x 11.5 x 15 BFG MT tires, Brown Dog 1" MML, M.O.R.E Bombproof MM Brackets, Big Daddy Tie Rod, JKS Adjustable Track Bar, JKS Quicker Disconnects, KC Daylighters, Smittybuilt swing away spare tire- bumper, XRC8 Winch
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Unread 12-09-2013, 09:44 PM   #22
Ncoffaro
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I understand that with the t-case drop. Do you think it would be better to do a 2.5" SL with the BL and MML or to do just a 3.25" SL
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Unread 12-09-2013, 10:02 PM   #23
SoonerE39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ncoffaro View Post
I understand that with the t-case drop. Do you think it would be better to do a 2.5" SL with the BL and MML or to do just a 3.25" SL
Others may disagree but personally, I think a 1" to 1.25" BL gets you some more ground clearance without any change in driveline angles, its cheap, and its easy to do. Then you don't need to do as much SL and therefore not mess with driveline angles as much.
This lift has served us well enough and my son has become the 'go to guy' to winch out all his friends that get stuck. He's never had any trouble getting into and out of any area where his JK friends get stuck.
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4.0L Auto. D30/D35 3.07 gears, 1.25" Spidertracks spacers, RC 2.5" lift, 1.25" BL, 32 x 11.5 x 15 BFG MT tires, Brown Dog 1" MML, M.O.R.E Bombproof MM Brackets, Big Daddy Tie Rod, JKS Adjustable Track Bar, JKS Quicker Disconnects, KC Daylighters, Smittybuilt swing away spare tire- bumper, XRC8 Winch
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Unread 12-09-2013, 10:08 PM   #24
Ncoffaro
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So do you think i can go with this - http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-sus...kit-652-3.html
and if i go with that 2.5" SL will i need anything else? Bump stops? Will I need to relocate the front or rear track bars?? Would i have to do a tc drop still? And i am assuming with the 2.5 i can still keep all stock sway bars links?
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Unread 12-10-2013, 04:18 AM   #25
rda616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ncoffaro View Post
So do you think i can go with this - http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-sus...kit-652-3.html
and if i go with that 2.5" SL will i need anything else? Bump stops? Will I need to relocate the front or rear track bars?? Would i have to do a tc drop still? And i am assuming with the 2.5 i can still keep all stock sway bars links?
The 3.75" kit I keep suggesting to you is a 2.5" spring lift and a 1.25" body lift in kit form. Yes you still need bump stop extensions. If you add a mml to the kit it isn't going to cost much more than a case drop. Rc sells the mml for $55. IIRC. add a rear sway bar bracket and longer sway bar links never hurt, but can be bought later. You don't need an adjustable front track bar.

http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-com...kit-646-7.html

Note the field at the bottom that allows you to add options to the lift.
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Unread 12-10-2013, 08:18 AM   #26
DoughBro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ncoffaro View Post
You have the rc 3.25 lift on this right?
Yes it's the 3.25 SL. It's a good starter lift bc at the time I had no clue what I was doing. At the time I had a big fat bumper and winch so that made it sag more...rack in the front isn't that bad bc it gives you a little resistance to the wind (or thats what I keep telling myself). I was a good lift to learn how to do lifts but I don't plan on keeping mine forever.
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Unread 12-10-2013, 11:35 AM   #27
Ncoffaro
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Thanks for the info guys! I think i am going to jump on the rc 3.25 SL within the next week here. I will keep you updated with pics before and after
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Unread 12-12-2013, 05:23 PM   #28
DoughBro
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Cool man, make sure you keep all the bushings and bolts organized I ended up having to hammer out some bushings I put in the wrong place...rookie mistakes haha
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Unread 12-12-2013, 07:30 PM   #29
jski701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoonerE39 View Post
Others may disagree but personally, I think a 1" to 1.25" BL gets you some more ground clearance without any change in driveline angles, its cheap, and its easy to do. Then you don't need to do as much SL and therefore not mess with driveline angles as much.
This lift has served us well enough and my son has become the 'go to guy' to winch out all his friends that get stuck. He's never had any trouble getting into and out of any area where his JK friends get stuck.
Just want to add to this, for the new guys out there trying to learn, the body lift does not give you any ground clearance, alone. Mere oversight, I'm sure, but this lift makes room for taller tires, which will give you ground clearance. This is a great lift, if you want a larger tire, without changing the suspension geometry. Also, you need to realize that the higher you go (3") the more of the frame you will see, and most people don't care for the look, much less noticeable with 2" or less. The suspension stays stock, so no gain in articulation, no extra up and down travel, or any other benefits that come with some of the different suspension lifts available.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 07:39 PM   #30
jski701
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soonerE39, thats a great looking rig you got. Basically the same type of lift combo I want to use, small BL to keep from over stressing the driveline.
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