[AWILD]

I remember seeing the post about a guy that made his own nets and I am looking to get the same thing done and would like to see that tread again...

My ideas are:

1. No rings...more sewn together like these http://i17.ebayimg.com/04/i/07/21/b8/51_1_b.JPG

2. No separate attachment piece for the rollbars. Use heavy duty velcro like grab handles.

3. Probably going to make a safari length top, windjammer, and cargo cover. I dont need the sides.

This stuff is basic nylon webbing just sewn together and attached to the bars.

[AWILD]

Made some quick measurements and mine is going to be a one piece 116" net with the following options of coverage: Try to visualize this

side view (looks like steps)

.............33" bikini
..............---------
..............I
- 34- ......I 28" jammer 113" total
cargo cvr I
----------
I
I (18"tailgate)


or (looks like a 7 that toppled over)

- appx 54"- safari
____________
I
I
I (appx 28" down to top of tailgate for the rear window) = 116" total
I
I_____

appx 34" from tailgate to center rollbar for the cargo cover

The 3" difference can be made up in velcro

[bradleyfitz]

I did my nets about a month ago, pretty much followed Raingler's nets, turned out very good.





But the thread you were looking for is this one I believe: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/custom-nets-pics-256808/

[AWILD]

bradleyfitz - any advice? what width straps did you use? how wide is the avg opening between straps? and what type of thread did you go with?

thanks

[bradleyfitz]

I planned on a full write up, but just haven't had the time. Base notes are as follows:

Side nets, 1" webbing. 4" holes, 1.5" strainless steel rings. For the angled piece of webbing on the sides, I made it 4" long on the bottom. This filled out the window very nicely, but if it were only 2" (as I believe Raingler's are), you could maybe tighten the netting down a little bit more.

Rear net, 2" webbing. 8" holes, 2" stainless steel rings. This was built in two sections, with the middle webbing (two of them) running longer up on to the sound bar, terminating in a ring. My rear net stops at the sound bar as I didn't want it running all the way to the windshield.

Partition net, 2" webbing. 8" holes, 2" stainless steel rings. An exact copy of the rear net, with the exception of the middle webbing, which obviously does not need to be longer.

Straps, 1" webbing with stainless steel fasteners. The majority of straps were 18" long (side nets), but the rear and partition nets were I believe 32".

Thread? The heaviest nylon thread your sewing machine can handle.
Needle? The largest needle your machine can handle.

Advice? If you're pinning it all together (which I recommend), pin from the inside out. If you pin from the outside to the inside, the will have a tendency to create slack in the netting. My side nets are a bit different in quality. The first net is a little slack, the second is much more taught (b/c I paid special attention to not having it slack when it was pinned together and sewed). The rear and partition didn't matter so much, 'cause virtually every end of webbing gets stretched taught by a strap.

Also, if you're using this as a dog barrier, the 8" holes are quite large. It's not a concern for my mastiff, as he can't fit his head through it, but smaller dogs (and by smaller, I'm talking about 80 lbs shepperds) have no problem fitting their head through the 4" side holes, and *might* be able to fenangle their way out of an 8" hole.

I can take more pictures if necessary (or post a few more that I already have), just let me know if you have any questions.

[bryans98tj]

MAterials are key for this like bradley said. Here is a hint: instead or trying to pin it iogether which Breadley i'm sure will tell you is a PITA, staple it together. Best material is a nylon webbing-not a poly-pro material. It will last alot longer. Make sure you seal your ends by burning them. Lastly, like Bradley said get the biggest needle/thread your machine can take. Most likely a 14/ 64# nylon bonded. Most of this can be found on Ebay. For the weebing, try to find a mil-spec type.

[AWILD]

Yeah I'm def. going with nylon webbing. My biggest thing right now is measuring it out. I want to go 2" web all the way and 6" openings. In the middle of a scratch pad and calculator as I type.

edit - might go with 1" webbing and 5" openings instead.

[bradleyfitz]

*smacks himself*
Good call, stapling would have held much better. Pinning was a PITA, but I actually got pretty damn good at it by the end!

I played around with hole sizes, from 3" to 5", good luck .. 4 and 8 seem to work out just perfect. I contemplated 4" for the rear too, but I think it just looks "too much" as it were.

Also, when sewing, use the standard box with an X in the middle, and be sure to back stitch the begin and end.

When measuring out total lengths, I gave about 1.5" on each end for overlap on the ring.

[Wheels4186]

Where did yall find your'e supplies at, ie: the nylon strips, string, and needles...


(might sound like a stupid ? but I'm kinda new to this whole sewing thing)


Dave

[bradleyfitz]

I bought everything locally. Webbing from a textiles store, rings from a hardware store, fasteners from the outdoor store.

Ran me about $125 CAD ($100 USD). You can do it cheaper if you buy your materials online.

[AWILD]

I'm calling military surplus tomorrow to see if they have nylon webbing. If they don't, fabrics stores have them along with the velcro i want to attach it with (no rings or latches). Might look into having them sew it too depending on cost.