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Unread 12-31-2008, 04:10 PM   #1
teCh0010
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Questions on LCG style build for street/mud/rocks

Ok, I am shopping for a 97 - 2000 TJ right now. First Jeep.

When I finish my MBA and get my last tuition repayment check I will have money for mods. I want to do a buildup more on the low center of gravity side of things, but on a jeep that will still be street driven some. Offroad we do both mud and rocks.

My current plan -
Stage 1 - Budget Boost, DIY Highline Hood mod, 35x12.5 BFG KM2's, gears, lockers, steering stabilizer

Stage 2 - SYE, CV Shaft, Tummy Tuck, bumpers, winch, onboard air, Curry Anti-Rock

Questions -

In general does the combo of a budget boost and Highline Hood/Fenders work well for 35's? Anyone have pics of this setup?

Diff - I have had several people tell me that the rear won't handle 35s, Should I go with a junkyard ford rear or a super 35 kit? Is there a junkyard ford option with the correct width and disk brakes?

Tires - I have had plenty of success on the farm with the older BFG MT's, is everyone generally happy with the newer KM2's? Is there a budget bead lock rim out there or will I need to do a kit on steel wheels? What backspacing are people using for 35's, I hate spacers.

Shocks - I know everyone says to get OME, If they are out of the budget is there a cheaper option? I have heard good things about the Skyjacker Hydros.

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Unread 12-31-2008, 04:20 PM   #2
vitapimp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teCh0010 View Post
Ok, I am shopping for a 97 - 2000 TJ right now. First Jeep. find one with a D44

When I finish my MBA and get my last tuition repayment check I will have money for mods. I want to do a buildup more on the low center of gravity side of things, but on a jeep that will still be street driven some. Offroad we do both mud and rocks.

My current plan -
Stage 1 - Budget Boost, DIY Highline Hood mod, 35x12.5 BFG KM2's, gears, lockers, steering stabilizer Don't waste your money on gears or a locker for the rear unless you get a jeep with a D44 or you upgrade the rear axle during this stage.
Stage 2 - SYE, CV Shaft, Tummy Tuck, bumpers, winch, onboard air, Curry Anti-Rock

Questions -

In general does the combo of a budget boost and Highline Hood/Fenders work well for 35's? Anyone have pics of this setup?

there are several threads regarding LCG builds where rigs have about 2-3 inches of lift, chopped fenders, adjusted bumpstops, and they are running 35's without problems. you will be fine.

Diff - I have had several people tell me that the rear won't handle 35s, Should I go with a junkyard ford rear or a super 35 kit? Is there a junkyard ford option with the correct width and disk brakes?

buy a jeep with a D44. then during your stage 2 add some stronger axles and carry your factory ones on the trail for spares. if you can't, you will be fine with 35's on the D35 just leave it open and when you are wheeling stay off the skinny pedal. you will be ok for a while but will definitely want to upgrade to a ford 8.8 or D44 during your stage 2.

Tires - I have had plenty of success on the farm with the older BFG MT's, is everyone generally happy with the newer KM2's? Is there a budget bead lock rim out there or will I need to do a kit on steel wheels? What backspacing are people using for 35's, I hate spacers.

tires, everyone has their own preference. if you like the BFG's the run those. there are lots of options for full beadlocks or doing a kit. backspacing, i wouldn't go higher than 4.5 inches. i went from 4.5 to 5 and now i am rubbing my control arms when i turn.

Shocks - I know everyone says to get OME, If they are out of the budget is there a cheaper option? I have heard good things about the Skyjacker Hydros.

I bought my rig used so it already had a 4" teraflex short arm lift and OME shocks. can't help you there.

see above in red...
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Unread 12-31-2008, 04:37 PM   #3
never monday
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=581403

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637021

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/super-35-a-513492/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=583412

I disagree on a mandatory 44 or 8.8
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Unread 12-31-2008, 05:36 PM   #4
teCh0010
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Yeah, if I can find a TJ with a D44 I will get it, I know it was an option but I heard there are not very many out there.

I don't want to invest in gears and a locker for a D30 and then blow it up and get a d44 or ford, I'd rather do it right from the front end. If I can't find a TJ with a factory d44 I will try to do a ford swap on the front end.

Another which TJ question - is the crawl ratio low enough to two foot the brake and gas on rocks in 1st gear or is an automatic prefered? I will have to drive from 30 - 50 miles on the highway to offroad, and once or twice a year 200 miles, so the 5spd is prefered to me as long as I can put enough gear under it to use 5th on the highway.
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Unread 12-31-2008, 05:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teCh0010 View Post
I don't want to invest in gears and a locker for a D30 and then blow it up and get a d44 or ford, I'd rather do it right from the front end. If I can't find a TJ with a factory d44 I will try to do a ford swap on the front end.
and what if it doesn't blow up?? it's posible....

Quote:
Another which TJ question - is the crawl ratio low enough to two foot the brake and gas on rocks in 1st gear or is an automatic prefered? I will have to drive from 30 - 50 miles on the highway to offroad, and once or twice a year 200 miles, so the 5spd is prefered to me as long as I can put enough gear under it to use 5th on the highway.
crawl ratios are all dependent on the gearing you end up with.
Can you get the gearing so low in a TJ to do what you describe? yes you can.
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Unread 12-31-2008, 05:48 PM   #6
teCh0010
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and what if it doesn't blow up?? it's posible....



crawl ratios are all dependent on the gearing you end up with.
Can you get the gearing so low in a TJ to do what you describe? yes you can.


Can you get it that low with just gears or do you need the t-case reduction (not in the budget for me)? I think 4.88's are the lowest gears I can find for the D30 up front.
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Unread 12-31-2008, 05:50 PM   #7
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with a 4:1 in the trans, 2.72 TC and 4.88 axles you will be at 53.23. Not low enough. You'll need TC reduction to accomplish what your after.
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Unread 12-31-2008, 07:52 PM   #8
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Different animal of sorts but to answer one of your questions, i run a 5 speed in my rubicon and with everything stock and my TC in 4 low i dont even worry about the clutch pedal. It is never needed. I would say to get as close to a 4:1 ratio as you can.
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Unread 01-01-2009, 01:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teCh0010 View Post
Yeah, if I can find a TJ with a D44 I will get it, I know it was an option but I heard there are not very many out there.

I don't want to invest in gears and a locker for a D30 and then blow it up and get a d44 or ford, I'd rather do it right from the front end. If I can't find a TJ with a factory d44 I will try to do a ford swap on the front end.

Another which TJ question - is the crawl ratio low enough to two foot the brake and gas on rocks in 1st gear or is an automatic prefered? I will have to drive from 30 - 50 miles on the highway to offroad, and once or twice a year 200 miles, so the 5spd is prefered to me as long as I can put enough gear under it to use 5th on the highway.
You'll love that stick on the rocks, if you are considering rock crawling get an auto. As far as axles the front Dana 30 is plenty strong for 35s and a locker, just bigger than that is iffy. As far as the rear an S35 is strong enough, or find a Dana 44, or the Ford 8.8 but it requires welding, and is 5/8" narrower on both sides. Or look into an AW4 swap from a cherokee, if you get a stick, it has OD. The real downfall of the Dana 30 front is you are limited at 4.88 gears.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 12:08 PM   #10
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if you're only guna be going up to 35's then yes get one with a d44 in the back. DONT BOTHER WITH A S35 KIT. if you ever see yourself going bigger then it doesn't matter what axle is in the rear because you should be upgrading to something bigger than a d44 anyways. a manual can be tough in the rocks but just get yourself a hand throttle for $25 and its a non-issue and you get to have more fun on the street and get better mileage than an auto. ask the automatic first gear is lower than a manual so your 1st gear crawl ratio will be lower in an auto vs. a manual.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 05:34 PM   #11
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Check out my build for a decent lcg rig. 35's on ~1.5-1.75" lift

Keeping low with bigger tires is tough to do on a budget. To add to what the others have said.

Just for tires you will want address:

-strength issuses. At minimum a stronger tie rod, and at least a d44 in the rear or super35. Lots of people complain about brakes as well.

-clearance issues.
While turning the larger tires will rub, Spacers, diff bs wheels, adjusting steering stops are some solutions
Clearance with tires and fenders, diy highline, tube fenders, (metalcloak), bumstops, body lift, and cutting bodywork are some solutions
If you do a BB some shocks slightly longer than stock will be good, just bumpstop accordingly. This wont require the modifications to use long travel shocks. If you keep the stock skid this wont require cv, sye, rear upper arms and trackbar mount upgrades.

If you want to do long travel shocks your looking at alot of work if you want to keep a respectable amount of uptravel. Shock mount relocation, control arms with flex joints. The front trackbar will need to be modified to keep it from binding in downtravel aswell.

If you want to get a TT then most likely you will want the sye, cv, upper arms, and rear trackbar mount to keep away the vibes. You will probably want to remount the rear coil mounts to straighten them out also.

I hope this helps give you some things to look into.
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Unread 06-13-2012, 05:49 PM   #12
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How long did the search take to find this 4 year old thread?

What determines low COG anymore???

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 06-13-2012, 06:30 PM   #13
rs4race
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How long did the search take to find this 4 year old thread?

What determines low COG anymore???

Best of Luck,

Mike
It is 4 years old! someone bumped it to the top so it was on the first page for me.

Trying to define LCG is really not worth the effort. Seems to me the only reason people ask for a definition of LCOG is to try to stir the pot... for entertainment purpose... not really a sincere question... so I wont bother with that... instead I would like to refer you to the search function....
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Unread 06-13-2012, 06:58 PM   #14
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If you want LCoG then why not make your control arms out of 3" solid bar stock, and run 2.1/4 ton axles with 3" of lift?
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Unread 06-13-2012, 06:59 PM   #15
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And yes I know this thread is old.
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