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Unread 06-25-2010, 10:39 AM   #1
snowcrash
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Question about Dana 30 to G2 Dana 44 front swap

Yes another axle thread but this one is a little more specific and geared (no pun intended) to G2 axles.

Anyone have any exp with the Dana 44 G2 front axles and the swap?

Was it painless? Are you happy? How's it holding up? If you could do it over again would you?

I'm thinking of running 37"s (running 35s now and have on current setup for a few years with no problems) but I do know its a time bomb running it on my D30 (even with the 35s, but I wheel smart) and trying to think of a cost effective upgrade route to go.

I already have 4.88 with alloy shafts in the back (front as well but that's the D30) lockers and the upgraded (not standard) vanco kit (on the way!!).

I was looking at the G2 with 4.88 and ARB and seems to be a nice price point and easy install/swap.

Signature is a little old, but for the most part it's basically what I have (Just installed Fox Shox instead of the RE shocks, MTR /K instead of MTZs, Savvy Gas Tank skid and some other little odds and ends but for the most part I think it will answer most Qs needed)

Thanks in advance

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2006 Silver TJ Sport D44/D30 4.88s:
RE Extreme Duty 5.5" w/Fox Shox 2.0, Currie HD Steering Kit, JKS 1.25" BL, 35" MTR/Kevlar, BlackRock 909 rims, ARB Snorkel,ARB F&R lockers, Vanco Brakes, Mastercraft Rubicon Dirt Sport Seats, RE Steering Stabilizer. AtoZ rockers with step, Gen-Right Full corner guards, AtoZ tire carrier, Bushwacker Fenders, Cobra 75WXST with Red Firestick II, Riddler Diff covers front/rear, DieHard Platinum, PSC Stinger, Banks Power Monster Exhaust, RockHard Cage, XRC8 Comp Winch, Savvy Gas Tank Skid and Tail Lights
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Unread 06-27-2010, 07:47 PM   #2
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Friendly bump....

Thx
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2006 Silver TJ Sport D44/D30 4.88s:
RE Extreme Duty 5.5" w/Fox Shox 2.0, Currie HD Steering Kit, JKS 1.25" BL, 35" MTR/Kevlar, BlackRock 909 rims, ARB Snorkel,ARB F&R lockers, Vanco Brakes, Mastercraft Rubicon Dirt Sport Seats, RE Steering Stabilizer. AtoZ rockers with step, Gen-Right Full corner guards, AtoZ tire carrier, Bushwacker Fenders, Cobra 75WXST with Red Firestick II, Riddler Diff covers front/rear, DieHard Platinum, PSC Stinger, Banks Power Monster Exhaust, RockHard Cage, XRC8 Comp Winch, Savvy Gas Tank Skid and Tail Lights
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Unread 06-27-2010, 07:50 PM   #3
GOLENJEEPTJ
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I have the G2 D44s front and rear with 4.88s and Detroit lockers.Very happy!
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Unread 06-27-2010, 08:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GOLENJEEPTJ View Post
I have the G2 D44s front and rear with 4.88s and Detroit lockers.Very happy!
Thanks for the info.
Got a D44 rear already (shafts and ARB) so If I change that it will be for the G2 D60

How do you feel with the 35s? Do you think it would handle 37s?
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2006 Silver TJ Sport D44/D30 4.88s:
RE Extreme Duty 5.5" w/Fox Shox 2.0, Currie HD Steering Kit, JKS 1.25" BL, 35" MTR/Kevlar, BlackRock 909 rims, ARB Snorkel,ARB F&R lockers, Vanco Brakes, Mastercraft Rubicon Dirt Sport Seats, RE Steering Stabilizer. AtoZ rockers with step, Gen-Right Full corner guards, AtoZ tire carrier, Bushwacker Fenders, Cobra 75WXST with Red Firestick II, Riddler Diff covers front/rear, DieHard Platinum, PSC Stinger, Banks Power Monster Exhaust, RockHard Cage, XRC8 Comp Winch, Savvy Gas Tank Skid and Tail Lights
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Unread 11-08-2010, 05:52 PM   #5
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bump.

Anyone have any updated G2 experience?
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Unread 11-08-2010, 06:55 PM   #6
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if you do decide to do the swap i definitly would be interested in buying your alloy d30 shafts.
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Unread 11-08-2010, 08:01 PM   #7
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Correct me if I am wrong, and I don't think I am, but the G2 44s (front and rear) are built with factory new Rubicion TJ housings. I know the rear is done this way because I have one. This means that it (the front) still uses the same axles, ect as a D30. The only difference would be a slightly larger R&P and the locker of your choice. I considered one for a minute, and then decided on a HP30. I got better driveline clearance, and basically the same strength in the R&P as a LP44 due to the HP design. I added an ARB to match the rear and called it done. Do some reading and figure out exactly how much you will gain by using what is basically a Rubi axle. That being said, my rear G2 44 has been absolutely perfect.

Lots of folks here run the HP30 with 35 in tires with very little trouble in some nasty places. Blaine and Jerry probably know a few who run 37s on it as well.
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Unread 11-08-2010, 09:28 PM   #8
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Unread 11-08-2010, 10:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sduncan View Post
Correct me if I am wrong, and I don't think I am, but the G2 44s (front and rear) are built with factory new Rubicion TJ housings. I know the rear is done this way because I have one. This means that it (the front) still uses the same axles, ect as a D30. The only difference would be a slightly larger R&P and the locker of your choice. I considered one for a minute, and then decided on a HP30. I got better driveline clearance, and basically the same strength in the R&P as a LP44 due to the HP design. I added an ARB to match the rear and called it done. Do some reading and figure out exactly how much you will gain by using what is basically a Rubi axle. That being said, my rear G2 44 has been absolutely perfect.

Lots of folks here run the HP30 with 35 in tires with very little trouble in some nasty places. Blaine and Jerry probably know a few who run 37s on it as well.
The HP30 sounds great but I would worry about having to back up, especially backing uphill. In that case, the HP30 is torquing on the coast side and the weight of the engine and weight transfer would put a lot of load on it. Also, if you were to get into a situation where you had to tow someone by driving in reverse, the same principle would apply: lots of torque in the weak direction. The TJ44 would have a good margin of strength in both directions (in theory). I guess I would always obsess about that one down-side of the HP30. I don't know that it would be worth it to me to sacrifice that margin of strength for the DS and diff ground clearance advantage.

Another thing I like about the G2 44 is it's a brand new housing, not a recycled 20 year old housing of unknown history. You don't have to hassle with pressing new ball joints or upper control arm bushing into it either.

Jerry is rockin a TJ 44 front now. Jerry??
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Unread 11-09-2010, 01:19 AM   #10
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I have a front rubi d44 that was purchased as a bare housing from OK4wd a number of years ago (not by me - I bought the housing from someone else). It was never installed when I got it, but I was given the stock mopar shafts (30 spline inners - 27 spline outers) for the rubi and I bought an ARB to put in it, but soon learned it was a bit of a nightmare to have installed due to the rubi housings being cut slightly wider than a regular D44 housing. Had to use some shims for lat 70's Ford from spicer to take up the extra room, which also displaced the carrier slightly to the driver's side, requiring the shorter axle shaft to be shorted about 1/8" (with a grinder). Other than that, it's worked out fine, but I never went over 34" LTB's on it.

Just remember that the only difference between the rubi axle and stock D30's is the center differential section. The axle tubes, brackets and knuckles are the same. Some of the aftermarket companies might use thicker tubes, but you'd have to specifically ask about it.

I did have some minor clearance issues with a rock crusher diff cover (or solid) and rugged ridge heavy duty steering kit (which is a crappy design). I ground some of the letters down, thats how close the tie rod was to the diff cover, and it still would come in contact with full wheel lock in either direction.
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Unread 11-09-2010, 01:32 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btn View Post
The HP30 sounds great but I would worry about having to back up, especially backing uphill. In that case, the HP30 is torquing on the coast side and the weight of the engine and weight transfer would put a lot of load on it. Also, if you were to get into a situation where you had to tow someone by driving in reverse, the same principle would apply: lots of torque in the weak direction. The TJ44 would have a good margin of strength in both directions (in theory). I guess I would always obsess about that one down-side of the HP30. I don't know that it would be worth it to me to sacrifice that margin of strength for the DS and diff ground clearance advantage.

Another thing I like about the G2 44 is it's a brand new housing, not a recycled 20 year old housing of unknown history. You don't have to hassle with pressing new ball joints or upper control arm bushing into it either.

Jerry is rockin a TJ 44 front now. Jerry??
You're going to spend that much more money on an axle that is no stronger in the direction you will be running 95% of the time than the much simpler hp30. It makes no sense. The d44, even well polished, requires a light foot when you run 37's. Then if you run heavy bead locks it becomes really close to the edge.

buy a bare hp30 housing and the gears you need. Everything else swaps over. It'll hold up better on the 35's, but for 37's you'll want real axles if you finally want to use the skinny pedal.
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Unread 11-09-2010, 02:27 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
You're going to spend that much more money on an axle that is no stronger in the direction you will be running 95% of the time than the much simpler hp30. It makes no sense. The d44, even well polished, requires a light foot when you run 37's. Then if you run heavy bead locks it becomes really close to the edge.

buy a bare hp30 housing and the gears you need. Everything else swaps over. It'll hold up better on the 35's, but for 37's you'll want real axles if you finally want to use the skinny pedal.
For me personally, the 44 is still a better option. By my calculations, doing a HP30 is not much cheaper than a new G2 44 if I wanted to install new components for the HP30 housing. The LP30 I have is too old and too many miles to salvage parts for a swap. The G2 is plug and play and brand new, whilst the HP30 would be a piecemeal setup with a lot more labor. I guess to me, the small amount of money I would save by doing a HP30 isn't worth the extra hassle.
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Unread 11-09-2010, 08:53 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by btn View Post
The HP30 sounds great but I would worry about having to back up, especially backing uphill. In that case, the HP30 is torquing on the coast side and the weight of the engine and weight transfer would put a lot of load on it. Also, if you were to get into a situation where you had to tow someone by driving in reverse, the same principle would apply: lots of torque in the weak direction. The TJ44 would have a good margin of strength in both directions (in theory). I guess I would always obsess about that one down-side of the HP30. I don't know that it would be worth it to me to sacrifice that margin of strength for the DS and diff ground clearance advantage.

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Unread 11-09-2010, 09:15 AM   #14
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x2
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Unread 11-09-2010, 05:18 PM   #15
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x2
I don't get it? It's the laws of physics and mechanics, right? It's not my fault that that's how they work. Do you not see how torque is created on the front axle when a vehicle is backing uphill?

Bear with me if you would:
1. You have the weight of the engine over the front
2. You have the COG of the vehicle biased more towards the front.
These two things are cumulative. Now, the small HP 30 R&P has to manage the extra torque of this front biased weight on its coast (weak) side. The HP front is best when torquing FORWARD, but ONLY when torquing forward. Certainly a front axle sees more mileage going forward, but does it see more TORQUE? Reverse is going to be where you have to worry about it, unless one never goes in reverse uphill or pulls a vehicle out whilst driving in reverse. I just see both of these as possibilities in the the kind of offroading I do. Why live with that weak link just for a little more clearance? That's my opinion.
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