PSC XC Fender Aluminum - Prep / Paint? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-28-2016, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
grininmonkey
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PSC XC Fender Aluminum - Prep / Paint?

So I like the texture and slight roughness of the raw fenders and really just want to slap some black paint to them.

So as I understand it, I need to de-grease, vinegar wash and then primer with an etched primer before laying down a color.

Question is... Can I get away with not sanding them down? Or do I need to run something like 220 grit over them?

I don't have any powered sanding tools.. so it will have to be by hand, but that's not the real reason I would like to limit the sanding.. its the fact I like the texture... matches the texture of my bumper a good bit etc...

I am not that experienced in painting, but I do have access to a spray gun kit.. but sorta thinking about rattle can... any advise would be greatly appreciated!

_

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post #2 of 7 Old 06-28-2016, 03:28 PM
Ironhead
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220 grit is far too coarse, I cant remember if i used a scotch brite pad or some 2500 grit sand paper, but basically the finest material you can find
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-28-2016, 03:40 PM
blubaru2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grininmonkey
So I like the texture and slight roughness of the raw fenders and really just want to slap some black paint to them. So as I understand it, I need to de-grease, vinegar wash and then primer with an etched primer before laying down a color. Question is... Can I get away with not sanding them down? Or do I need to run something like 220 grit over them? I don't have any powered sanding tools.. so it will have to be by hand, but that's not the real reason I would like to limit the sanding.. its the fact I like the texture... matches the texture of my bumper a good bit etc... I am not that experienced in painting, but I do have access to a spray gun kit.. but sorta thinking about rattle can... any advise would be greatly appreciated! _
You're overthinking this. You could've been done with all the prep work in the time it took you to type up this thread. Go buy some 500 grit sandpaper and give the fenders a once over with them. Then wash them with soap and water. Then wipe them down with alcohol wipes. Then shoot them with self etching primer. Let it dry according to directions on the back of the can. Then go to town with some rattle can spray paint. Done.

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post #4 of 7 Old 06-29-2016, 06:52 AM
Superjay5
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This is an area I can help you with as my shop has a full spray booth and the primary thing we spray is aluminum.

Step. 1 Since it appears that the fenders are already sanded or media blasted, or at least not smooth I think a light sanding with a scotchbrite pad would do. The process of sanding is to add "tooth" for the primer to grab to.

Step. 2 I would personally acid etch the fenders. This is something we started doing years ago and has really helped with adhesion. Get yourself some Phosphoric acid and mix it with water, 50/50 ratio in a spray bottle. Spray the parts and let sit for 10 minutes then rinse with water. The phosphoric acid can be found at Home Depot, believe it labeled as Metal Ready. Rinse it well and make sure they are dry before moving on to the next step.

Step. 3 Primer, I prefer an epoxy primer but its 2 parts. I have heard that you can get it in a spray bomb, with a button on the bottom to release the 2 parts, but have not seen or used it. If you are going with a spray bomb I would stick with a zinc/etching primer. First coat go light, don't try to cover it perfectly on the first coat. Let first coat tack up for about 20mins, then hit it with a 2nd coat and try to achieve full coverage. If a 3rd coat is needed wait another 20mins then hit it.

Step. 4 Paint, If you primer looks good, no runs or debris in the primer the paint can go on over the primer as the primer is still tacky. If there are areas you need to correct before paint, let the primer dry for 24hrs then wet sand the primer. The key is to have the primer either still tacky before you paint or let it completely dry and sand before you paint. Like the Primer, first coat should just be a light coat, then 2nd coat try for full coverage, if needed go for a 3rd coat.

Step. 5 Clear coat, if you opt to put a clear coat over the paint, its the same as the previous step, if the paint looks good, spray the clear over the paint when its still tacky. If you have any flaws in the paint, let it dry for at least 24hrs and wet sand the paint, then clear coat. Spray the clear just like the steps before, 1 light coat, 2nd try to cover, 3rd if needed.

any other questions just ask.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-29-2016, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
grininmonkey
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Thanks for the info!

I will go the Phosporic acid route... vs pickled fenders. I painted my rear axle and wasn't all too happy about the outcome, but accepted it because its painted and who is going to notice. But my failure was incorrect prep and it was to cold outside when I did it. These fenders are going to be very visible and just want to make sure they come out decent looking.
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-29-2016, 07:28 AM
Superjay5
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Just take your time, go with light coats. The light coats will help with not getting runs. There is a fine line between enough paint and too much. You want enough so you don't get dry spots, but not enough you get runs.

With each step I would prime/paint the inside of the fenders first. Will give you a little practice before you hit the outside of the fender which will be more noticeable. That will also keep any over spray going to the outside of the fender.

When spraying, you want to start spraying off the part, continue spraying until you are again off the part. Over lap about 50% on each pass.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-29-2016, 09:02 AM
freeskier93
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Go to Hone Depot, buy some cans of black rattle, spray it on, call it a day.
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